Geonovast

No personal experience, but it would not surprise me in the least.

Where are you located? If you're in southern Wisconsin, I have a motor you could use.

Just because the motor's shot doesn't mean the trans needs a rebuild. AX-15 is a very strong transmission. I would pull the motor and transmission out together, toss the motor, and you should be able to inspect the transmission with it out of the vehicle. Again, it's probably fine. Yes, you'll have all the stuff you need then. I would assume the CPS is still attached to the transmission, so you'll be good to go with that then. AW-4 swap is certainly possible, but only really worth it if you REALLY want an automatic. Not to mention you will have 3.07 geared axles, and 4.0/ autos came with 3.55s. 3.07s dog enough with a stick, it'd be even worse with an auto. Since you have the flywheel and all the clutch stuff, you don't need to specify which transmission your donor motor comes from. The motors themselves are the same, the differences are in the flywheel/flexplate, and the manuals have a pilot bushing for the tranny input shaft. 96 was just a funky year, so it's usually not suggested. It may dump right it.. in may not. There were some differences in the 97-01 motors. They have different sensors, I've been told the distributors are different, and 00-01 has distributorless ignition. It's possible to put any of those motors in, but your least amount of work is going to come from a 91-95.

I thought you said it had no motor? Unless they left that stuff sitting on the tranny input shaft, or threw it in the truck, you wouldn't have it. All that bolts to the motor itself. You don't need to splice the CPS. 91-95 use the same sensor, 91 just has a different plug. Buy a CPS for a 91, and you'll be fine. Also, you wouldn't need to buy any entire AX-15 with the external setup. You just need the bellhousing, slave cylinder, bearing retainer, throwout plate and throwout bearing.

If it already has a transmission... then why would you switch to auto? Yes, its generally easier to put a motor and transmission in together.. but not when it already has a transmission in it. If you get a motor from an automatic donor, you'll simply need to get the correct flywheel, clutch stuff, and pilot bushing. Converting to an automatic is a considerable amount of work.

91 was an oddball year for some things... but not too much of consequence. The biggest thing I've noticed is 91 has its own CPS. It's the first year of the HO CPS, but it has a different plug than 92-95. Do you specifically want an auto?

It would help if you told us which piece. Also, pictures say a thousand words :thumbsup:

Are you kidding? The chain would have been made out of duct tape.

The part that snaps in for auto and/or manual is interchangeable. The bare consoles are the same.

I'm trying to convince my dad to go with pins. When I rode back to WI with him from MO, the driver's latch stopped working, and the cable broke... 5 miles into the trip. You can still open the hood with a pair of plier... but I think lockable pins are better.

I wanna see pics

And in the future, this definitely qualifies as a tech question, so you can put stuff like this in the MJ Tech forum. :thumbsup:

Passenger side, right behind the distributor. It has a one wire plug going to it, and it's about the size of a shotglass.

I stopped watching the shows on there when they decided to give the audience a class on the concept of a stroker, and made it obvious they had no idea what they were talking about. Apparently the distance between the main journal center and rod journal center is the stroke, not half the stroke. They also put 32 or 33 inch tires on 3.07 gears and then complained about it only making 80 hp on the dyno.

I know it sucks... but nipping a bearing problem in the butt now is better than having it seize on you 50 miles away on the interstate, and you ending up needing to change the motor again.

Get ahold of a mechanical oil pressure gauge you can hook up to where the sender goes to verify actual oil pressure. If that reads good, replace the sender and/or gauge. If the mechanical gauge agrees with the dash gauge.. you have bigger problems, and most likely need new rod and main bearings.

... That's easier than taking 5 minutes to lock the CAD over?

I can't do anything until spring (nowhere to work on it, etc). But the truck will not be going anywhere until then.

Speaking from personal experience there Pete?

Can't get much more jury-rigged than that.

You'd still need an unbroken shift for it. :thumbsup: Chances are better that the vacuum motor is shot, not a broken fork.

:cheers: :clapping:

31 fans and counting... but still missin' the boss!

I wonder where they got the year from. I thought 83 was the last year for the J-trucks and FS Cherokees