Geonovast

When you get that low, the axle is getting dangerously close to the oil pan.

that is stupid crazy....taxable value...pfffft...pa only has inspection , emissions and tags...like $120 total IN has no yearly inspections. Also, it is kind of relative. I have lived in PA a few times. Property taxes for housing is at least double in PA than IN. Also, I had to pay an occupation tax. I was paying like $300/yr. since I put down machinist. I was only making $7/hr back then. People making more were paying less. Tom so theres noone to make sure peoples cars r safe every year? There must b alot of accidents due to brakes,tires, etc...you know, the minor stuff that old ladys and lazy people never check Safety inspections are a load of BS. When my 99 XJ was inspected, they freaked out about the 3rd brake light being burnt out, and that it "didn't have the proper number of exhaust clamps", but didn't give a rat's @$$ that the rotors were warped.

Jim, why you always gotta show me up and tell the easy way?

Why? The 2.5 has a reputation for being gutless, but as shown above, they can haul their fair share around if need be. When it comes down to basic design, the 2.5 is essentially a 4.0 with 2 cylinders hacked off. Damn things even use the same pistons. They may be gutless, but they're just as hard to kill.

The Dana 35 had the 1.75", Dana 44 had the 2.25" The later 9" drums were also 2.25" wide, so make sure you get the correct ones.

How to check your mileage... Fill up until the pump stops itself. Hit tripometer, or write down odometer reading. Drive around for awhile, I usually get it down to about 1/4-1/2 tank. Fill up again (preferably at the exact same pump). Divide number of miles since the first fill up by the number of gallons put in on the second fill up. That's your MPG.

If you have the factory axle, they will be 10 inch drums. In either 90 or 91, the D35 got the 9 inch drums when it went to a C-clip design.

Why do you need a black front bumper off an MJ?

Didn't your momma tell you not to take pictures while going 100 mph?

You must've missed the huge fiasco with the meet and greet about that shop. viewtopic.php?f=3&t=22454 viewtopic.php?f=3&t=22667 viewtopic.php?f=18&t=21941

Yup, you can unbolt the converter without pulling the trans. They did that on purpose, as you usually leave the converter in the bellhousing when removing the trans or motor.

:ack:

In WI, I paid sales tax when it was registered, then it was a set fee for plates every year. Last time I paid that, it was $75. In MO, I'll have to pay personal property tax on the 99 XJ(only valid registration now), but I believe the plates stay the same. Paid $31 for 1 year plates, next year I can get 2 year plates for $62. Every state is different.

You could buy rebuilts for a couple hundred under that... :nuts:

My 88 XJ did something very similar. Turns out the two bottom bellhousing bolts had jumped ship, and the trans was only being held to the motor by the top two.

Why can't you post pics? I just right clicked on them, went to view image, and slapped them in some IMG tags Rear looks about 6" from a standard SOA, front looks about 4" $400 would be good if it's all there. Should be a 4.10 rear axle. Also, it's not a longbed. That's definitely a shortbed.

It's unreliable, and more to the point, unnecessary. The lines can crack. The plug can fall off. The plug can get full of crap and cause it to not work. The motor can fail. The fork can crack. The collar can crack. The Needle bearing between the shafts can fail. Locking the CAD over eliminates most of these problems. Getting a non-CAD shaft gets rid off all of them. The amount of gas you save by having the CAD there, IMO, is simply not worth it. I'd rather lose the 1/2 MPG and know I'll have 4wd when I need it. My first 2 XJs had CADs, and I never had a problem. I'll never rely on one again, however. The only practical reason for keeping that I can see, is to put a manual actuation kit on it, be it cable, electric, or a better vacuum system. And only to have 2 LO.

Another possibility.. Could you have maybe switched the fuel return and supply lines?

Was the pump ever taken off the sender? When I replaced the pump in my 2.5, the new pump had the terminals switched from the original pump, and nothing was labeled, so the damn thing was spinning backwards on me.

I'd rather have 1000 0331 heads than a single peugeot. Well duh, that gives you plenty of replacements. :dunce:

Other Comanche bumpers. Nothing will bolt straight on.

Raining on and off here.

Get ahold of a mechanical oil pressure gauge, hook it up where the sender is, and get a reading with the motor revving. I'm betting that your oil pressure is probably fine. The light will come on when it dies because with the motor not spinning, there will be no oil pressure. Check your IAC. If that's dirty and sticking, it will cause a low idle. My first two XJs were 4.0s with a 5 speed(88 and 89), and both of them had a habit of dying when I threw in the clutch because the IAC wouldn't let it idle.

Unfortunately none of column shift MJs got a full cluster. It's most likely going to be easier for you to get a full cluster, and convert it to column shift using this thread: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=14904

This is unlikely, but possible and doesn't hurt to check. My 88 XJ had what appeared to be a VC or RMS leak. It wasn't either. Turns out the passenger side coil spring had broken, resulting in the passenger UCA to smack the pan. At first it wasn't bad, the oil trailed along the oil pan lip and dripped off the back. But it got much, much worse.