Geonovast

CC has its own fan page. Check my sig. Here's a direct link for the lazy http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Comanc ... 0928172..1

Asking $7500, and can't be bothered to list mileage? They also listed it as both 2wd and 4wd...

Hmm... New XJ has a Napa battery, and so far, I've hated it. Do yourself a favor and get yourself a real battery.(Interstate)

I got in the habit of using one foot on both brake and gas when I'd come to a stop. Both my first XJs had dying problems when you'd throw in the clutch. (bad IACs, I believe. They were both gone before I found CC) The 4.0 Renix throttle bodies also have an adjustment screw that you can leave the butterfly cracked if you want a higher idle. Not sure about the 2.5 ones.

How are you trying to get it out? They don't just pull out. When I did the motor swap on my brother's XJ, we had to rent a puller from O'reillys, and the old one came out in pieces.

Fenders/Doors can be easily had from an XJ. If the rest of the cab and bed are that good, get it.

Yeah, I slapped the hat on her, and she liked it so much I had to take a picture. I'd love to comment on your avatar... but.. :shake:

lol, I know... but maybe that one oddball was a "lefty", and therefore was upside down compared to the others when it died.

I know an even better place in Mid Missouri :D

Maybe it's the equivalent of being a southpaw?

I don't think it's feasible to pull the needle off without breaking. At least, I've never been able to pop one off.

Correct... 91+ 2.5 and 4.0 pumps are the same.

Glad it was something simple! As for cutting the hole in the firewall.. as far as I'm concerned, there should be a hole there from factory. But now you know that whenever you pull a motor and trans apart, always, always remove the CPS before pulling them apart, and put the CPS back on after they're together.

Most of these I only the crappiness of because a certain person I live with likes crappy TV. 17..18..19 Kids and counting Say Yes to the Dress What Not to Wear Wife Swap Professional Wrestling. I always knew it was fake, but DAMN Those stupid Judge "whatever" shows Anything, and everything, on MTV. Anything, and everything, on any of the Disney channels. Dora the Explorer really, really needs to GO AWAY. I'll probably get berated for this, but Deadliest Catch sucks. 1000 Ways to Die American Idol The Smoking Gun stuff would be fine if they got rid of the washed-up comedic commentators.

The rear end did have fluid in it... right?

Be careful with an easy out. If they don't bite right away, it'll just shave down what you've got... and you don't want that crap in the cylinder. I would spray it down, like, a lot, with PB for a few days before you try anything. I'm hoping you didn't already do an oil change.

Yeah, they didn't make it very fun to change. Easy as pie on a 2.5. I changed the one on my 2.5, takes about 5 minutes, going in from the top. Pull out the front driveshaft, and go in from the bottom. There's still not a lot of room, but it's damn near impossible to do anything from the top, unless you have ninja grip fingers, and three elbows in each arm. Another suggestion: Since you just had your trans out, you obviously don't need to worry about crossmember bolts breaking. Get a jack under the back of the transfer case, take the frameside crossmember bolts out, and let it down a few inches.

It can be done without pulling the trans. Make sure your original sensor is still good before you swap, and make sure the old one is bad. Yours is 4wd, yes? It's not that bad if you remove the front driveshaft first. Those bolts are 11mm heads. You may have to break them loose from the back with a socket and extensions, then work them out from underneath in front of the trans. Be very careful not to drop those bolts into the bellhousing. It's not fun to fish them out.

It's magnetic. It reads indentations in the flywheel. And, it doesn't read anything to do with crank position in relation to the cam position. It just reads when there's a piston in the fire position. There's three pickup indents on the flywheel. There's a sensor inside the distributor that determines that, in conjunction with the CPS going off, as the CPS and CMPS together determine injector control.

That sensor is what tells the computer when there's a piston in position to fire. If the sensor's not working, it may be late, early, or skipping telling the ECU to fire. Another good chance is the sensor was damaged when you put the transmission in. It's very easy to do. This happened when I did a motor swap in my 88 XJ and neglected to remove the CPS before reinstalling the motor: Good thing I had a few Renix CPSs laying around. Take a multimeter, and set it to read resistance(ohms). Connect the two terminals on the sensor's plug, it should read between 125 and 275 ohms.

My brother's 4.0 did something similar... although it just cracked the cylinder wall, and the piston completely disintegrated. Same cylinder too.

Define "a little slow". Our Jeep motors seem to idle at a lower RPM than most cars.

250,000 kilometers = 155,000 miles.

What year is the AX-15 from? The sensor you're referring to(on opposite sides) is the same. You'll either have to make yourself an adapter harness, or splice the wires. It's the reverse light switch. The large hoses are the breather lines. The transfercase will have one, the AX-15 does not. I don't remember if the BA 10/5 has a breather or not. The CAD lines are on a round switch on the transfercase. It's about the size of a D battery, and will have 4 vacuum ports. If your AX-15's transfercase is newer than 91, it most likely will not have the switch, as the CAD was done away with. Keep in mind the 231 behind your BA 10/5 will not bolt up to an AX-15. BA 10/5 has a 21 spline output, AX-15 has a 23. If the AX-15 you're getting has a T-case on it already, then you're good to go.

I removed the lock plate without a spring compressor once... you can do it, but it was a pain. I went out and bought the compressor, haven't used it... but it's there for when I do.