Geonovast

lol, I suppose a 1 inch T-case drop should even it out with a non-AX-15 crossmember.

Most of the crossmembers are the same, regardless of which position they're mounted to on the framerail. The AX-15's crossmember has an indent in the middle, to allow the AX-15 to sit down low enough. It would be nice to get a side by side picture, but I personally don't have the means right now.

If the 904 is like pretty much every other trans out there, you couldn't simply put your tail housing on it. The output shaft will also be different (2wd one is most likely shorter, and won't have provisions for the speedometer gears) I would just get yourself a T-case and a shorter rear shaft. The 904 would have had an NP 207 for part time, and a 228 or 229 for full time. I have heard that the 904 has a 23 spline output, but never verified it.

You'll need an AX-15's crossmember. Also, you can't use a 91+ cluster in an 89. Electronics are completely different. You'll need a full cluster from an 87-90 for an 89.

Pic would be nice. I have an 88 XJ with factory air, and there's no box on the lower rad hose.

:ack: I think life would be a bit better if they just stopped.

I've replaced the pads on all three 9 in axles. Unless the push rod is attached to the cylinder and under the boot, the 9 in ones do not have them. All the brakes on all three Jeeps worked.

XJ hitch will not work. IIRC, Shortbed and Longbed hitches are also different.

You mean parts in the 10in are the same as the 9in? Nooo. I don't think a single piece interchanges between the two.

So the 'push rod link thing' on the 9" drums are possibly attached, and under the boot? I've never purchased a new cylinder, but I do have an 8.25 sitting around with a cylinder I can take apart tomorrow.

A shortbed's wheelbase is about a foot longer than an XJ, and the longbed is about 6 inches longer than the shortbed.

I hope you're not referring to an MJ being the same wheelbase as an XJ. XJ, Shortbed MJ, and Longbed MJ all have different wheelbases.

:hmm: I have 3 Jeeps with the 9 inch brakes. I've never seen a single push rod from the cylinder to the shoe, a tab on the shoe just sits in a cup on the cylinder.

IMO, a T-case drop kit is going to make your problem worse. They're not practical for an XJ at only 3 inches. Do they make your rear U-joint angles better? Yes. Do they make your front U-joint angles better? NOooooo. They make them worse. Replace your U-joints. If you paid for that drop kit, send it back. If they sent it to you for free, sell it to someone who has a much bigger lift than you and actually needs it.

HO's have a tendency to get worse mileage than the Renix, but they punch out a bit more power. My 88 XJ was getting 26 mpg before I did an unnecessary motor swap.

Love the wheels! Hopefully eventually when I get an MJ going again, I can get some decent tires on my set and get'm on something.

Your oil pan gasket should be reuseable. No chance you installed it backwards? Was the pan damaged at all?

If it's a good locker that unlocks itself when it's not needed, then no, you won't need the CAD. It's generally only done when the front end is welded, and a manual lock kit is installed for the CAD. Even then, when in 4wd, it would power the left wheel with the CAD disconnected. The problem with locking the front by welding it is that the wheels have to turn at the same speed, regardless of 2wd or 4wd, and that eats tires. If it's a good locker, and unlocks itself when turning, leaving the CAD locked will be fine. If you're willing to drop the cash on a locker, I would also suggest getting yourself a non-CAD shaft. Even with the CAD locked, it can still fail if the fork or collar breaks.

Don't even need washers viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18415

Yes.

AFAIK, you shouldn't have any problems.

I never use a program to put music on my phone or mp3 player. You can do it just by copying them over into the folder.

Could very well be your O2 sensor. The Renix systems don't listen to various sensor inputs until it warms up. It goes off of presets. Once it's warmed up, and it's listening to a bad sensor, that could cause your bad idle.

Just the pan.

I've always pulled with the manifolds off. I use the two outermost exhaust bolts, the front top AC bracket bolt, and the only place in back I've been able to attach to is the grounding/dipstick tube brace bolt. I would not even attempt to pull them out together without the load leveler.