Geonovast

Crankshaft Position Sensor. It's mounted on the driver's side top of the bellhousing. It's a magnetic sensor that picks up indentations in the flywheel, telling the ECU when a piston is near TDC and ready to fire, resulting in the ECU firing the coil. If the sensor is dying, or the terminal is dirty, then the ECU won't receive the signal, or receive the signal late, resulting in the truck dying/not starting. Sometimes unplugging and plugging it back in will by you some time, but chances are it's on its way out. You can check it with a multimeter. Set it to read ohms(resistance), and probe both terminals in the sensor's plug. Should be between 125 and 275 ohms.

As Wildman pointed out, you hit on the nose. You told it you were going to sell it. Have you changed the fluid?

TPS may simply be out of adjustment. I would check that before bending over at a dealer.

My 88 XJ had similar symptoms, until I noticed I'd accidentally hit the power/comfort switch back to comfort. Put it back into power, and it shifted fine.

If you have the room and cash, I say get it. Easily worth $300, especially if the mileage is correct and the motor's good.

Personally, I would get a new clutch and replace everything anyway, simply for piece of mind. Plus, with the 95 clutch kit, you'll get a new throwout bearing, which is something that's never a bad idea to replace when the trans is out.

All 4.0s are multi port fuel injected. The only carbed MJ to roll out of the factory was in 86, and only the 2.8L V6. Pull the head and figure out what's going on in there. A small suggestion... whether you pull the motor or not. With the head off, it's not that hard to get at those two top torx bolts on the trans bellhousing. Personally, even if I wasn't pulling the motor now, I would yank those out and get some real bolts in there. This will make your life a ton easier if you do ever need to pull the motor or trans in the future.

:rotf:

Nothing uses the same main or pack, other than another MJ.

I have a roll bar from an 80s yota... and it's way too small. I have a pic of it.. uh... "attached" to the truck I can scrounge up. Here we go. It's sitting on 2x3 blocks of wood right now...

Almost everything I know, I learned from people on here.

Pete left it that way on purpose. :rotf:

Welcome to the club! Your pic isn't showing up. You need to host the picture on an online web hosting site, and link the full URL from there. You can't link from your computer, and you can't upload as an attachment. This thread should help: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=11077 Are you referring to the bracket that connects all three cables together?

x2 on the discs. Sounds to me like they removed everything, including the backing plates... WHY? D44 drums may not be the easiest thing to find.

There are two ports on the top of the tank with vacuum lines running from them, to a T above the tank, and a main line that IIRC, runs up to the charcoal canister. You can pop those out with the tank out of the truck, and gives you two roughly 1 1/4" holes to peer through. Look through one, shine through the other.

You guys are silly... getting rid of the rake.... making the rear axle wider so it looks like it isn't narrower... MJs have a distinctive look. Personally I vote to keep it :D

Drop the tank. Now only will you not have to do all this crap under the truck, but you won't mind having to take it out and put it back in. Also, you can pop the vapor ports out, shine a flashlight in one, and see what's going on through the other. I know it's possible to do a fuel pump with the tank in the truck... I've done it both ways. I will never do another pump with the tank in the truck. It is 1000x easier sitting on the tailgate.

Cheaper?

The 9 inch brakes on a D35 and 8.25 are the same.

Sorry Don, but I'm gonna have to agree with Pat.

Ralph has a Chryco 8.25 Congratulations.

As opposed to a positive ground? I'm fairly certain the wiper motor itself is the same.

Yea, but each time you do that, I'm sure your getting quicker :D Too... many... comments...

Where was it?

I doubt it had anything to do with low coolant. I've started motors with the radiator not even being in the vehicle. My best guess is the sensor was somehow sending out to the ECU that it was running too hot, triggering the auto shutdown. Unplugging and plugging back in probably reset it.