Campbellbrothers Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 My 88 comanche seems to get warm after mild trails. Ive got most of it figured out but are there any tips to keep it cool? Just wondering if there is anything I can do to keep the temp gauge low. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitroxsteve Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 People do all kinds of thing to help with cooling but in my opinion if its running hot something is wrong. Also keep in mind that normal temp is around 210f how warm are you running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dillithium Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 4.0 or 2.5? You could add an E-Fan to the radiatior with an in cab switch, or thermostat switch. How old is your coolant? How does your radiator look? Do you have your fan shroud? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbulliwagen Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Many of the 4.0 trail runners add hood vents to let heat escape while on the trail at low speeds. Heat wants to rise naturally, so adding vents in the hood will naturally let the heat out better. But like was said, check all the other stuff too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 Eliminator Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 I like to do a radiator and heater core reverse flush every other year Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 I added the LeBaron hoods vents. It would only creep up when I was thrashing it at a low pace in places with no wind, open air, etc... but it never actually over heated. As my truck does not have A/C it only had the mechanical fan. I have added the aux. electric fan but I have not been out in enough heat to use it since I installed it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big66440 Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 I had hood spacers installed last summer and noticed a difference in temperature both sitting in traffic and while moving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJam86 Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 What type of wheeling are you doing (mud/rocks/fire trails)? Still using closed system? What temp are you getting up to? I did hood vents, run a 195 tstat, and run my E-fan while on trails, I flushed coolant once and have never really had an issues with getting too hot. I'm wheeling in 80+ degree weather in these California summers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Motorcharge Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Backflush and clean the cooling system out an replace the coolant with fresh coolant and make sure your system is working properly. Check temps with an IR thermometer to confirm that the dash is reading accurately. It's not uncommon for them to be off or wrong altogether. The hood vents help, but I also have all my efans rewired to come on with a switch. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/electric-auxillary-fan-override-switch-132465/ Warmer than normal is ok, but it shouldn't be overheating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 I run 1.25" hood spacers, have 3 10" electric fans with an open system. Only time it thought about overheating, it was triple digits and extremely humid outside.. I was pushing it hard also though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue XJ Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Mines all stock, with the exception of converting to an open system by putting a filler T in the upper hose. Runs at 205~210 all day everyday on the trail. If its running hot, you either need to replace coolant or the radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Duel electric fans with manual override switches in the cab are the answer......if you overheat with that then you definitely have a cooling system problem. Here is a crazy idea that I used for an older gm truck that was used for road work....it had to inch along for miles at a time carrying a heavy load........I took a piece of galvanized ducting (like the kind you use for a home furnace) and with some tin snips and pop rivets attached it to the floor heat output then ran it across the passenger floor to the factory speaker hole....added an every day furnace floor vent to the lower door panel on the outside and there you have it........when the temp gauge starts to rise you turn on the floor heat flick the fan to max......and you essentially add another small rad (the heater core) and fan to your cooing system..and you are using parts that are already there.....the only piece you are adding is the exhaust......it was a bit of a hillbilly set up but it ran for years without a hitch......just the aesthetics of it needed to be refined For a jeep application I would see it as some sort of reverse snorkel or side venting set up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanche County Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Check temps with an IR thermometer to confirm that the dash is reading accurately. It's not uncommon for them to be off or wrong altogether. :agree: The temp sender sometimes gives crazy signals. Check upper and lower rad hoses, t stat housing, front and back of the head and along the block. Not a Fluke, but good and about %50 cheaper than the HF IR thermometer. http://www.lowes.com/pd_73790-56005-IRT207_0__?productId=3136869 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue88Comanche Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 I converted to open some time last year and haven't had an issue till today. I parked the truck walked into work to unlock the front door then noticed coolant spewing from the front of my Jeep (leaking from the Radiator cap). it started after sitting with the engine off for a min. correct me if i wrong but isn't the tube from the top of the filler neck running to overflow bottle meant to catch that stuff? The thermostat on the cap was reading a temp around 220 - 240 (I was not paying attention to the temp but remember it was in the "red" zone on the cap.) I flipped on the e-fan and it cooled down quickly and stopped spewing from the cap. (the pic below is for reference of the hose to the overflow tank, not a pic of my issue today) Sorry I don't mean to hijack the thread, just venting my own cooling issues.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 I converted to open some time last year and haven't had an issue till today. I parked the truck walked into work to unlock the front door then noticed coolant spewing from the front of my Jeep (leaking from the Radiator cap). it started after sitting with the engine off for a min. correct me if i wrong but isn't the tube from the top of the filler neck running to overflow bottle meant to catch that stuff? The thermostat on the cap was reading a temp around 220 - 240 (I was not paying attention to the temp but remember it was in the "red" zone on the cap.) I flipped on the e-fan and it cooled down quickly and stopped spewing from the cap. (the pic below is for reference of the hose to the overflow tank, not a pic of my issue today) Sorry I don't mean to hijack the thread, just venting my own cooling issues.... 1) I do not know if this is you answer but the return hose you mention is mounted higher than it is for stock....is it possible you are pinching it off when you close the hood and not allowing it to function right? 2) Where did you get the rad cap with the gauge in it.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue88Comanche Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 I converted to open some time last year and haven't had an issue till today. I parked the truck walked into work to unlock the front door then noticed coolant spewing from the front of my Jeep (leaking from the Radiator cap). it started after sitting with the engine off for a min. correct me if i wrong but isn't the tube from the top of the filler neck running to overflow bottle meant to catch that stuff? The thermostat on the cap was reading a temp around 220 - 240 (I was not paying attention to the temp but remember it was in the "red" zone on the cap.) I flipped on the e-fan and it cooled down quickly and stopped spewing from the cap. (the pic below is for reference of the hose to the overflow tank, not a pic of my issue today Sorry I don't mean to hijack the thread, just venting my own cooling issues.... 1) I do not know if this is you answer but the return hose you mention is mounted higher than it is for stock....is it possible you are pinching it off when you close the hood and not allowing it to function right? 2) Where did you get the rad cap with the gauge in it.? 1) I don't think it is getting pinched off, but i will check again before i leave work. 2) Here is the link: Super cool thermostat cap thing with a temperature gauge built in heck ya! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campbellbrothers Posted January 25, 2015 Author Share Posted January 25, 2015 Thanks guys. I have the 4.0 and usually ride hills / wooded trails and slow speeds. It gets up to about 250-260 and starts to shut down. I'm gonna add hood vents and fans but I think I've found a leak in the coolant. I'm gonna flush all fluids and get it going again. I hope to some of all around at some of the Tn offroad parks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metrictonner Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Engine coolant temp primarily affects gas milage. Sticker milage for the 4.0 renix is 18-23 MPG with 225/75/15 tires. Lower gauge temp until milage varies significantly from sticker. Lower gauge temps with thermostats that come in three temps: 160, 180, 195. If changing the thermostat doesn't lower temp then you have an old radiator. Replace your radiator and use a proper thermostat to bring MPG back up to spec. It is highly unlikely that a 4.0 renix is running hot unless it actually boils over or the water pump locks up lunching the serpentine belt. The water pump is constantly circulating coolant through the coolant bottle so the bottle cap is the pressure release valve. If your cap is old and gummed up the bottle should blow at near boil over. If you have removed the heater core vacuum diverter your heater core could blow emptying the coolant on your nice new carpet until you stop the engine. Thats about 3 gallons out in the middle of nowhere or on some freeway access ramp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WiscoXJ Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Electric fans and a larger radiator are always a good staring point. An old school NASCAR trick was to drill two tiny pin holes in the tstat to allow a bit of movement at idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmax Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 What is the proper thermostat temperature level for a 2.5L, manual trans Comanche? 160, 180, 195?? can't find the spec! Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jargon Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 What is the proper thermostat temperature level for a 2.5L, manual trans Comanche? 160, 180, 195?? can't find the spec! Thanks! According to AutoZone, the OE Recommended Thermostat Temperature is 195 degrees. http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/thermostat/jeep/comanche-4wd/1990/4-cylinders-e-2-5l-tbi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitemanche Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 195...jeep engines like running 200* + Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 Personally I would not get a Mr. Gasket cap, (and just as a point of information, that's not a thermostatic cap, it's just a cheap thermometer) or a Stant Lev-R-Action cap. Too much work gone into gadgets and not the pressure equalizing property of the valve. I would also steer away from a fail-safe t-stat. If you have a proper cap...and buy a new one as a matter of maintenance, every 2 yrs or so, keep your cooling system in good shape and refresh your coolant/water mix every two years or so...you should not have problems. If I still had a closed system I'd use a late 80's-early 90's Volvo tank and cap, from Volvo...not ebay. More expensive, but worth it in the long run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Bruchal Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 If you were to ad hood vents, would the rain dripping on the engine mess with any of the plugs or sensors? Where would be the best place to put the vents? My Jeep stays mostly around 210, but in traffic, it climbs and I have to rev the engine to lower the temps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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