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MJ#757 ..it's an 87...no, it's a 95, no, it's a...97+?


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hey thanks for reminding me, I need to do my vent lines myself :oops:

 

I forgot to do mine today, and am now on my way to work. :cry: :oops:

 

the truck is aligned, skid plates up front and for the t-case are installed, and it's ready for the rear bumper tomorrow. I'm losing sleep today and tomorrow before working the night shifts...but I will be ready. after the rear bumper, it's just cleaning and installing the gas tank skid and bleeding the brakes, then going over the idler pulleys :D jamminz.gif

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pics

truck done other than rear bumper and bleed brakes

front skid

front skid again

this shows the angles

transfercase skid...I painted it white

t-case skid again

rear view of the skid

front of gas tank skid

rear of skid

front of skid again

 

I mounted the t-case and gas tank skids with 9/16" coarse threaded grade 8 hardware and lock washers. tapped the frame rails and drilled out the holes on the skids to match.

 

unfortunately though, I forgot to put the rear bumper on today...will do it tomorrow night

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Nice work Pat. That front bumper is kickin. jamminz.gif

 

Does the gas tank skid eliminate the need for the straps, or is independant of the tank?

 

:cheers:

 

it is independant of the tank, though I think you could probably set it up to be the tank holder itself. it's held on by 7 bolts, 5 of which are 9/16" thread, two of which are 3/8" thread, all of which are grade 8.

 

don't think the tank would go anywhere...but you'd have to build kind of a cradle for it.

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very cool. now it looks complete :D

 

can't wait to tear it up this weekend!

 

and tear it up we did.

 

on the trip, the water pump went south...not all the way south, but right on the border. the head gasket leaks a very small amount of anti-freeze, I almost hydrolocked the truck (improper water entry at speed) and ended up wrecking the TPS and ICM at the very least, though it still isn't running right after swapping the sensors on the trail.

 

tore off the exhaust (easy repair), bottomed out the rear right shocks and broke it, blew the rear right wheel cylinder, something broke/got loose in the steering box, and the transmission now grinds slightly between reverse and park.

 

thankfully no body damage. ANYWAYS now for the change in plans.

 

Tim (TNT) and I are working out a deal that gives me his 1995 4.0 HO chrysler reman (bored over most likely .020) with borla header, 62mm bored throttle body, transmission, entire wiring harness with power windows, locks, and R-142 a/c system. also all accessories needed for the swap including gauges, OHC, and headliner plus engine bay accessories. it has a trans temp gauge wired in, and a tranny controller already to control 1-2 shifts and lock torque converter.

 

that said, it's a pretty sweet setup since the trans has 80k miles on it, and the motor has 3k miles on it. the engine will be dropped in for now while I accumulate the stroker parts for it (unless I get the crank, rods, and $600 pistons before it's installed). hoping to have it payed off in 6 weeks.

 

so, I'm not fixing nor diagnosing this motor at all, since I really don't care...it runs and drives well enough for local travel, and if it takes a dump oh well.

 

In the meantime, I'm removing the dust shields up front and installing 297 disco shafts from a 1995 YJ, and installing brand new ZJ discs on the dana 44 in back. at the same time, I hope to put a mini spool in the rear and reseal the rear axle completely.

 

I'll also take care of putting permanent drain plugs in the truck soon, so I can actively drain the truck at my leisure. will also clean/bedline the floors.

 

after the drivetrain swap, it's time for the new tube fenders that I will build, and a wagoneer quad headlight grille. then it's time to build the skidrails on the side, and begin doing a sort of external cage too. I got lucky with no body damage this past time, but want zero chance next time.

 

:cheers:

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  • 3 weeks later...

picked up the new motor from TNT saturday morning. genuine mopar reman... .020 bore, borla header, 62mm bored throttle body. from a 1995 xj, the motor was built in 2002 according to the tags, but only has 3k miles on it. came with all wiring (including power windows, locks, mirrors, and overhead console plus gauge cluster interior and engine wiring and computers) and headliner, and downpipe. M.O.R.E. motor mounts also were included, as well as a 90k mile aw4 23 spline from the same vehicle.

 

pics. stripped to just the engine, painted white. oil pan will be orange, valve cover in black with the high points sanded.

this is how clean the engine really is...look at the inside of the valve cover

valve train

painted. on to oil pan

pile of parts that need to be cleaned

 

I'm adding a second a/c compressor to the right of the factory one for OBA, and relocating one battery to the driver's side, and one in the bed. both will be deep cycle blue top optimas. I'm told this won't be an issue with heavy wiring, and will help ALOT with all of the aftermarket electronics (winches etc.)

 

I'll be getting some more done today, when I wake up. then I won't be back til this weekend from work, and I'll get the motor done then. it's getting a 1997+ 4.0 intake as well, and will eventually be stroked.

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Freaking great find,, but why'd you paint it white? You need a new camera bad dogg...

 

thanks. I painted it white to keep with the body colours, and because I can now see any leaks that may develop. black doesn't offer that virtue...and the only reason that the valve cover is black is because I won't see any leaks on it (most likely). new camera is in the budget soon, but I need a GPS first.

 

project88...no on the chrome, but yes on black. perhaps. I started steel wooling it tonight and it looks like I can get the header cleaned and polished that way...

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:wall: :doh:

 

so I cleaned the 2000 wrangler intake today, and mounted it an the borla up. had some clearance issues, but I managed to grind off a bit of the intake, and put a bit of a divot in the header to make it work. hopefully this won't affect performance much or at all.

 

but...after doing all the work, I realized that I have a problem.

 

up to 1997, 4.0's used the power steering pump as the serpentine belt tensioner. with a 2000 intake, I don't have that option....luckily I have the tensioner bracket, but this means I have to get all new a/c pump and bracket, and alternator :rant: :headpop:

 

I'll post pics in a bit...

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Dang !!!! JeepcoMJ.!!!! Congrats . :clapping: Very Nice. :cheers:

 

Peace. ;)

 

lol. thanks.

 

here's the pics...

 

here is how close it gets to the header, and where I had to clearance it to fit

how dirty the intake was to begin with

and how it came out.

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got the necessary power steering bracket today, then blasted it and all of the pulleys, and modified the pump to work.

 

for those of you upgrading to this serpentine tensioner bracket, the only necessary modifications to the steering pump is to put a newer pulley on it, and drill out the threads in the three mounting holes. then bolt it in.

 

now, only one bolt needs to be adjusted in order to swap the serpentine.

 

 

everything is mounted for mockup right now.

 

what's left is to install the water pump with gasket and torque it to specs, clean up the intake/exhaust flanges, install them with the gasket and torque to spec, mount the p/s pump and bracket permanently, install the thermostat and housing, wire brush the distributor and install, wire brush the a/c pump and mount, remount the oil dipstick, fill with oil and prime the system, bead blast the valve cover and have it air brushed (a family friend is putting flames on it :D) then install it, install throttle body, new O-rings for the injectors.

 

then take it off the stand, install flexplate. from there, clean up the trans, paint the bellhousing black, install new front seal and filter kit on the trans, clear coat the transmission, and put it all back together.

 

the transfercase will be orange, but the SYE output will be clear coated aluminum.

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Lookin' damn sexy. Good call on painting the engine white, if you can see the leak before it gets bad everything stays cleaner!

 

 

What type of paint have you been using? Just rattle can enamels?

 

thanks. you're literally the first person who has liked the colour lol. I figured that all combined, it would turn out well. I can now do a light spray with low pressure water and engine degreaser every once in awhile, and avoid any buildup of oil/grease/etc.

 

the paint I'm using is just engine enamel from advanced auto. I was going to mix some up and spray it with a gun, but my hectic schedule would screw me over on paint costs...since it would go bad before it all gets used.

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