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MJ#757 ..it's an 87...no, it's a 95, no, it's a...97+?


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Waiting patiently for you to do the bumper.

I've got a Tomken front I want to adapt to fit the

rear,need some ideas.

Looks awesome btw,I like the blacked out

lowers.

 

lol. I'm thinking of starting it this week...today I'll probably make my frame-mount templates so I can drill them out and drill out the uni-frame so that I can weld sleeves in it and have more bolt holes than stock to hold the bumper in.

 

should perhaps have her all done this weekend, or at least have a good start.

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Love what you've done Pat. jamminz.gif

 

What paint did you use on the lower? Was planning the same thing on the Mild build and wasn't sure if I would use a semi-gloss, satin, or just plain flat.

 

:cheers:

 

why thank you sir.

 

I used Engine Enamel by duplicolor I believe. it was low gloss black, and I got it at advance auto. wanted to go with bedliner, but the funds just aren't there at the moment...and i wanted to do SOMETHING to the truck other than sit around and look at it, or do anything major

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bumper installed

 

if you notice, there are four fog lights on it. rather, two fog lights underneeth hidden behind expanded sheet steel, and two right near the turn signals.

also have my OBA tank

btw i wear size 11.5 shoes...

 

tomorrow I'm doing the rear main, painting the oil pan, and hopefully gonna get the cooling system flushed

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finally got the control arms in. the axle is half out (almost done), the oil is draining, and after a solid 7 hours of sleep, I'll be back at it to do the rear main, paint up the oil pan, check the torque converter bolts over, clean up the frame rails with a scraper (oily....), and install the RC adjustable control arms :D

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gah!

 

I'll update with pics later on...but i HATE doing oil pan gaskets.

 

the darn gasket was literally baked onto the block...i've been going at it with a gasket scraper, razor blade, and an angle grinder with the plastic brush tip thingers to finish it up. had the front axle and pan out of the truck last night, then started on this at noon today and now it's 3pm and only just getting the gasket cleaned up.

 

oil pan is cleaned, and now I need to do the final clean on the gasket surfaces, then pop the rear main cap to swap the seal (which should be fun to slide out...).

 

then on to re-install the fron axle (I'm SOOO glad i tore it out btw) with the new RC adjustable control arms. from there, my front suspension is done and the rear just needs new shock mounts :D

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well, here are the pics of the process. didn't do a DIY or anything on it, just snapped a few here and there.

 

first, i decided to test the front bumper out and yank the parts xj out of the weeds

then get the truck set up and start yanking the axle and oil pan on friday night

new RC adjustable control arms, which are actually very nice and entirely greasable now with a new bushing design

I believe in this pic the oil pan is out

now putting the axle back in with new control arms

the darn thing wouldn't let me put the driver's side UCA in, so I checked measurements, found I was accurate, then used a engine hoist thinger that was in the shop, with a chain bolted to the diff and the ratchet-hoist's other end on the opposite side of the trans crossmember

 

all bolted up, but need to lengthen the upper control arms about 1/8" i think, to make it work properly.

 

all done. the rear main sucked, I borrowed some tools from TNT so I could scrape it properly and then use his angle air grinder with some plastic wheels to buzz whatever small amount of gasket was left off. the pan went in without a hitch, and I cleaned the crap out of it before it went back in. oil pan gaskets suck to do...they don't want to stay up. rear main was easy.

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tomorrow (today actually) is redneck alignment day.

just need the wheel to be close to center and the truck to track straight until thursday (though i won't even drive it from sunday on), and the pinion angle set right (adjust UCA's to 1/8" longer).

 

fortunately, redneck alignment is also accompanied by non-redneck light and fan wiring day as well. will wire in proper waterproofed relays for each set of lights (two sets up front, and getting everything set for rears but not mounting them yet).

 

then mount hi-lift

new input seal on the rear axle

flush heater core

bleed brakes

check all fluids and top off (no leaks now save axle pinion seal)

begin OBA if i get a chance

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diff skids installed

rear

front. it was a Rusty's, but I had my bro weld in the name on it...I cannot have that name anywhere on my truck (you know, cause Rusty's sucks)

fogs hooked up. I altered two factory xj switch plates to fit 3 switches in each, so now I have 6 factory switches relayed and in the factory location. they're for the fogs, offroad lights, cargo light, power trans, auxillary fan, rear fogs.

it's rediculous how much I can see at night now :nuts:

cut out bezels

driving fogs

relays for the front fogs, have to set up relay for the rears when i install them.

added a grand cherokee 4x4 emblem just because

now i need to paint the clevis' red, plus install the front skid plate. painting JEEP in white across the skid too.

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are you puttin on a rear bumper before the trip?

 

yep. idk if the one i'm building will be done by then, but if it isn't the truck will just get the tube bumper that's in the barn temporarily. don't wanna wreck the nice stock bumper sitting in the garage...my father's layed claim on it (and my class 3 hitch... :roll: ) for the smoker (that's diesel to you ladies and gents who are unaware of it's existance)

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thanks 8-8

 

I upgraded my CAD vacuum switch to a air-toggle switch from a semi that my dad salvaged from a wrecked rig for me. it works 10 times better with zero leaks, the cannister now holds vacuum instead of leaking it out, and it even has a "safety" to keep anyone from accidently flipping it down :D

 

 

it has an input and two outputs, with a switch that's spring-loaded on a pin inside. the pin has O-rings and is set up so that one side of the switch is longer than the other, and in switching it you actually open and close chambers inside. pretty neat, and it works like a charm :D

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Thats a pretty cool upgrade for the CAD. I've never seen that before. Does it work pretty well?

 

it works 100%. you just cannot engage it at speeds as there is no synchro (it WILL grind and ruin the splines unless going -3mph)

 

I'd say that I'm probably the first to rely on vacuum and retain the factory vacuum actuator...most of the time the Central Axle Disconnect vac actuator is junk. lucky me, when that happens, I have three more of them :D

 

I'll do a writeup and will probably consider putting together a kit...these switches get thrown away where my dad works so I'm sure it could work out if anyone wants to go this route.

 

anyways, I'm having other issues with the truck right now...just got home for the first time since wednesday, and the god damned thing will not start, has a full tank of gas, and a plethora of new sensors have been installed already....

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special thanks to 89eliminator and his dad for finish welding my shock mounts for me. (I suck at welding, can only tac-weld, and a little BeccaMig 140 welder isn't gonna penetrate well enough...so I went to their house and he welded up for me)

 

oh, in case you haven't guessed, that means that I now have *new* rear shocks and mounts that will not make the axle fall off :roll: :brows: . refurbished (cleaned and painted) a set of xj 4.5" rear shocks, which measure 25" eye to eye at full extension, and 15.25" eye to eye at full compression. set them with 3" of up-travel and 6.75" of down-travel, as the bump-stop is set accordingly...so now the rear should flex decently without stuffing 100% in the wheel well.

 

also installed an extended rear vent line, and now I'm moving on to the front. extending the front upper control arms by 1/8" to correct the pinion angle, then re-aligning the steering, then tomorrow I can install the skid plates and wheeling flag jamminz.gif

 

:D, tomorrow the new ICM comes in for the truck so I will be able to drive it reliably

 

pics

wade also gave me a whip flag for the badlands run, and I mounted that as well.

 

here's the shocks I used;

you can see the left shock is the dirty/grungy one, the right shock is the clean one. they clean up nice when you wire wheel the paint off completely. they are 4.5" lift rear rough country shocks for an XJ , with the bar-pins removed and sleeves pressed in the lower ends. complete length eye to eye is 25", compressed is 15.25". this gives 9.75" of travel.

 

next you will see the shock mounts. they're two tabs on each shock which allow the shock to sit between them.

wish I'd had more light for the pics. where I located them allows the shock to sit at 18.75" with the truck at a stand-still on level ground. it allows 3.75" of up-travel, which is perfect since that's about what the bump-stops allow (I will be extending them tomorrow) and will keep the wheels out of the inner fender. this also allows me 6" of down-travel as well. not too shabby at zero cost to me :D

shocks clean

left one installed

right one installed

left one, this showing the mounts. again, sorry for the lighting

and official badlands flag-whip installed

 

tomorrow I just need to spray up the rear bumper and install it, then tighten up a little bit of the front end, align the steering, and install the skid plates. bleed brakes too...oh, and install the front axle vent line... :oops:

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