JeepcoMJ Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 old update from another forum... I have the mounts for the tank and hi-lift done, just need to redo the lower 8" of the rear roll bar tubes as they're rotted out pretty good, and full weld the bottom of the mounts. tank is pressurized, air horn is mounted and installed. need to set up the york compressor now, and add in a pressure switch and blowoff valve to the input side, and I'm good to go. everything mounted horns mounted (157 decibal...slightly high pitch, but not too high) temporary intake relocation until I build a canister for it switch for horn is temporary until I find something electric that I can just wire into my horn buttons. it's the one on the right (need to put a red cover on it) two bolts used as studs on the lower end of the HiLift. I'll be grinding off the threads and throwing a rubber "sleeve" over them upper end of the HiLift mount...tractor pin welded on. nuts still on it to make it adjustable. saved me some time, worked out great. had to shave down too sides of it so it fits in the hilift. need to drill hole bigger for lock to fit through pressure gauge and output side well, here's a pic from behind. it doesn't even get in my way visually when backing up turning out good so far. things I need to do yet: replace junk tube on roll bar, rear mounts on it, fully weld, and paint replace front left wheel bearing (shot) replace pitman arm TRE (shot) home-brew OTK remove welded gears from front axle (don't like 'em on the street) front end alignment swap to 4wd metric tonne MJ rear springs (net 1.5-2" lift, higher tow/weight capacity) custom trans x-member (tuck it up, lower control arm bushings on each side of the inside of the frame rail to eliminate the factory trans rubber mount) rock rails/sliders modify rear bumper/build different one to fit with cut box tube fenders/side protection/trailer lights instead of factory tail lights storage in the box somewhere for tools relocate battery to rear add second battery with cutout switch for it (change both to optima blue top's) upgrade alternator to 140amp dodge alternator mount york compressor to engine and other necessary to make work modify inner fenders up front pull front axle and truss plus bumpstop redo rear shock mounts plus bumpstop finish plus install overhead console install nice tan interior (no more camo guys) install sony xplod plus sony 10 disc CD changer, 600watt amp, and 800watt sub in custom MJ box make spare tire hold-down for the front of the bed (need to get a spare) install "new" windshield" custom cowl hood rear disc conversion that about sums it up. probably won't happen in that order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 another old one... well, thursday night I had an owl hit the windshield...didn't appear to crack it any more than it was before, but friday morning it was dripping water onto my tomtom from condensation through a crack that apparently just got wider. so, friday I pulled the windshield out of my 95 cherokee shell (very smoothly with the tool I have for removing windshields), and got the one out of the MJ after much cussing as the tool wouldn't fit because of the old style of clips it uses. jakewi came over today and helped me out a bit with cleaning the "new" windshield, going to the junkyard for a window seal and coming back with a bunch of parts. I got the windshield frame cleaned out after we put some roof rack rails on jake's xj and a new steering stabilizer, then primered the bare metal and put the new windshield in. we also put 97+ cherokee rear hatch struts on the hood of my mj...no more hood prop rod :D they work phenomonally! then I put 97+ door seals on both doors as they're thicker and seal better. need to put the 97+ mirrors on the doors...I like them better because they fold inward instead of springing back...will be nice in tight spaces and off-road. windshield is curing right now (taped up to the roof so it won't slide down in the frame), windshield trim is on, and now I just need to clean the windows and interior, then put the seats back in (took out to keep glass off the leather). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 pics hood struts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 another one from when I was in socal working for the past 2 months... picked up a currie d30 johnny joint kit for $100 out here in socal. since i'm running a disco axle, i don't need the reinforcement brace...and since the joint is actually welded to the brace, I can't use it on my front axle. that said, for another $100 I can pick up two more joints, make that bracket, and throw two of the joints up front and then use the mounts as the upper mounts for a rear 4 link...and since i already have 4 RE superflex 2.5" joints...and a bunch of bushings and collars, I have every joint I need for a 4 link setup front and rear...though I could do a triangulated 3 link in the rear and save some money too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 last week... installed some boomerang shackles in the rear today... with boomerang installed with stock on difference in length swapping the pass. side in how it sits now net gain, about 1.75"....giving the truck the proper rake, and now the back is just high enough to where it won't be low as heck with all of my trail gear. took about 15 minutes to install, man I LOVE rust free vehicles...the bolts came right out. edit: added bonus...my driveshaft angles were completely unaffected by the swap. still have two degrees positive travel for the pinion, perfect to put it in line with my driveshaft under forward motion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakjeep93 Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 nice job jeep com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirteatr717 Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 its lookin purdy.. are u putting some newer style fender flares on it? thatd look pretty bad@55 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 Pat, Who's shackles (Brand/manufactures name)are those and if you would measure the length eye to eye, it would be much appreciated!! CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted December 13, 2009 Author Share Posted December 13, 2009 Thanks guys, Dirtear, I'm actually contemplating a complete 97+ front end on it...just because the fenders are already cut perfect for the bumper, and I already have most of the parts in "wheeling" condition. Pat, Who's shackles (Brand/manufactures name)are those and if you would measure the length eye to eye, it would be much appreciated!! CW They are TNT customs boomerangs, which are now discontinued. I got them used from TNT (the club member) here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted December 14, 2009 Author Share Posted December 14, 2009 finally finished the xj to mj crossover harness using mfpdm's DIY thread on it. need to install the crossover after I tape it all up, but it should now be good to go, and I should finally have interior lights etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 :wavey: Just thought I'd stop by. Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89eliminator Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 needs longarms Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted December 14, 2009 Author Share Posted December 14, 2009 lol guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted December 16, 2009 Author Share Posted December 16, 2009 today I half@$$ed a functional exhaust together....I had A LOT of leaks, from front to back. went to look, and the stainless clamps that came with the borla header and down-pipe had loosened up, and the downpipe was no longer in the tranny hangar. on top of that, last week the tail pipe was rattling on the rear x-member under the bed, so I cut it off real quick @ work. so, it now has a flowmaster 40 and is welded from the catalytic on back (although my welds look like a 3 year old did them...I didn't have time to clean, just needed it done and leak free)...tightened and lock-tite the clamps on the borla downpipe so they wouldn't loosen back up by themselves. this allows me to remove the exhaust quickly and easily. poor quality on sound, but here's a short video that shows how the flowmaster sounds. It was late so i couldn't get on the throttle either I also bought a new optima red top on sunday. re-installed my A pillar gauge pods, and installed my dual needle pressure gauge. this will show both tank and regulated air pressure. Right now only the regulated pressure is hooked up...it is the red needle (R for regulated...). the white needle will be tank pressure. I need to wire up the back light in it still, and I should also relocate my tranny temp. gauge to the pod as well...the dash space where the trans temp. gauge is right now would be better used for either a factory clock, or who knows what. I made a suction-cup dash mounted "tripod" for my digital camera so that I can record wheeling trips. When I made this video, I was tired, sick of driving with mud terrains in bad road conditions...I completely forgot I have 4wd low or I probably would have made it lol. oh well. turn down your speakers before you play it btw... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted December 17, 2009 Author Share Posted December 17, 2009 got out the plasma cutter and welder when I got home to see how bad I could screw up the front inner fenders...only got around to the driver's side as I still need to relocate the battery(s) to the bed. first step was to cut the lowest part out, trim out in front of it, and relocate the curve from the front of the inner wheel well forward. like so then to fill in the gap that was left I still need to finish weld a few spots and have two smaller areas to fill in, but I ran out of argon so I called it a day. since I have to d/d this thing right now, I had to paint it to avoid having it get rusty, and I had to temporarily mount the ECU and air horns. here's a comparison...driver's inner fender (cut) to passenger inner fender (uncut) gained about 8" forward front tire clearance on the truck :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfpdm Posted December 17, 2009 Share Posted December 17, 2009 Like the sound of that 40 Pat. I've been debating on it but I think that is the one for me. :thumbsup: It's been probably 20 years since I last played in the snow. Looks like fun. Took a minute to figure out what the heck you were doing to the fender wells but I see now, major difference in clearance. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_wizard_of_fire Posted December 17, 2009 Share Posted December 17, 2009 do yourself a favor and replace that quick release pin with a small padlock if you do any DD with that truck.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted December 18, 2009 Author Share Posted December 18, 2009 Like the sound of that 40 Pat. I've been debating on it but I think that is the one for me. :thumbsup: It's been probably 20 years since I last played in the snow. Looks like fun. Took a minute to figure out what the heck you were doing to the fender wells but I see now, major difference in clearance. :cheers: thanks. you can't tell the sound of it all that well from the video...it was late and I didn't want to really get on it. sound would have been better if it was actually recording near the tailpipe too... wizard, I'm not concerned about it. if they really want my hi-lift, they can have it. it was free from the junk yard anyways... -Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89eliminator Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 wizard, I'm not concerned about it. if they really want my hi-lift, they can have it. it was free from the junk yard anyways... -Pat sweet, be over to grab it in a few. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted December 18, 2009 Author Share Posted December 18, 2009 wizard, I'm not concerned about it. if they really want my hi-lift, they can have it. it was free from the junk yard anyways... -Pat sweet, be over to grab it in a few. won't do you much good anyways...it only goes up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted January 23, 2010 Author Share Posted January 23, 2010 I have everything for a proper matching light tan interior now, with nice factory rubber floor mat. dying the limited leather seats tan tomorrow, painting the center console, and installing the light tan trim and headliner after I clean up the floors. can't wait..it'll be nice to have it all matching :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted January 24, 2010 Author Share Posted January 24, 2010 started on the interior stuff today... dyed one seat tan... this is what it used to look like cleaned the *cringe* "rust" that was on the floors, and bedlined them. I still have to pull the lower trim and the center console stuff out so I can bedline the trans hump and modify the factory rubber floor mat to work with the tuffy lockbox that is in the truck. put the seats back in because I need to drive it in the AM...didn't get to the driver's seat because I wasn't sure how long it was gonna take to dry. I also replaced my old style RC adjustable control arms with new style ones. I'm less than impressed with the fit as the lowers contact the shock mounts at basic ride height...so I know they won't flex worth a damn on a 6.5" lift. they're just temporary until I get time to build long arms. the old set were junk after 8 months of use and proper greasing, so RC sent me the new style on warranty. it worked out...the old set gives me the UCA axle-side mounts that I need for the longarms, plus a bunch of nice poly bushings for them too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted February 10, 2010 Author Share Posted February 10, 2010 compliments of some trading with brent ($500mj), 97 front end (brent, I'll make it there this week with the vent wing windows and two 10 slot grilles, once the snow lets up) out with the old in with the new not sure on whether I want to just bolt the flares on, or raise them then bolt them. either way, I figured out 97+ xj front flares will be just about perfect on the rear... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
500 MJ Posted February 10, 2010 Share Posted February 10, 2010 Looks Good :clapping: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted February 10, 2010 Share Posted February 10, 2010 not sure on whether I want to just bolt the flares on, or raise them then bolt them. either way, I figured out 97+ xj front flares will be just about perfect on the rear... Are you sure the front flares will fit the rear properly? They angle out in the front to offset the curve of the front fender. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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