1990 Pioneer 4x4 Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 Awesome sticky, I would have never found those bolts! Ok, now what should I do? Should I lubricate the heck out of the cable and connections and hope or should I purchase a new cable and latch…? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 4, 2008 Author Share Posted December 4, 2008 Depends on what went wrong. Did the center pivot mechanism stick? Did the cable stick? Did you rip the pull handle off? (like so many of us do. :( ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990 Pioneer 4x4 Posted December 4, 2008 Share Posted December 4, 2008 Depends on what went wrong. Did the center pivot mechanism stick? Did the cable stick? Did you rip the pull handle off? (like so many of us do. :( ) The cable started to stick and it became increasingly harder to pop the hood, then I installed a cowl induction hood and it wouldn’t open. The installation of the cable mechanism to the new hood was identical to the original hood and I used all of the original equipment. So, I guess the cable began to fail…? It sure feels sticky when you pull on the handle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 4, 2008 Author Share Posted December 4, 2008 You can try lubing it as best you can. Make sure you lube the rest of it too. I use PB blaster to free it up and get it moving, then lithium grease for long-term frictionlessness (technical term). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Pete; You saved my arse today with this post. Was putting on a new cowl hood, shifted the release cable rods etc. over, hooked everything back up, then slammed the hood. I forgot to pop-rivet the bellcrank on the new hood! :nuts: Of course the hood would not open.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 10, 2009 Author Share Posted July 10, 2009 You're very welcome. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 You're very welcome. :thumbsup: This is also a great way to insert/remove shims on the corner latches to get the new hood leveled up in front. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 I oiled my cable when I had the hood open,like when doing an oil change. (hint hint) The hood in the open position allows gravity to carry a drop or two of oil from my oilcan into the open end of the cable. After the cable freed up I thought something else was wrong because the hood mechanism was so easy to pull. :banana: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pilotblake Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 As soon as I got my hood built and painted I was anxious to get it put back on and see how she looked. Bolted down the back hinges pulled the support rod out of the way and let it close. As soon as it clunked shut it dawned on me I didn't hook any of the hood cable stuff back up :fool: . I was lucky enough to be able to get my arm up and snag part of the release stuff on the hood and get it open after several strong minutes of foul language. :mad: I wish I would have found this sooner, i will attempt to store it in my brain somewhere for next time. Great info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLCollins Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 What lubricant would you recommend to lubricate the hood release cable? How would you flow this lubricant down the entire length of the cable? Before the problem, becomes a problem? :hmm: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 14, 2009 Author Share Posted December 14, 2009 I used WD-40 on the cables. Generally it seems that it's not the cable freezing in the tube, but the hinge mechanism gumming up. I would thoroughly clean it up and use a thicker lube like lithium grease on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy in Maine Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 Well i finally got the hood open after about a week of sub-freezing temps. I just could not pull the latch cable hard enough. I cleaned the dead lithium grease on about everything (with Gum Out and a rag) ont he mechanism and the only thing I had handy was some NAPA lock de-icer (that is mostly a graphite spray with some sort of solvent). Sprayed it up pretty good. Everything moves freely right now but that could likely change. I am washing the truck in a heated garage bay right now. Got my fingers crossed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 solider mj Posted May 20, 2010 Share Posted May 20, 2010 wow i am damn happy i found this post...i was on way to school today n when i got there went to pop hood...so I'm at school not about to leave n I'm definatlly just putting some hood pins in when i get home...its only and 800 dollar dd/trail rig/toy so why not make it look like and old hot rod with some girl getting hood pins! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche12 Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 Way ahead of you. :D awesome! which make me want do mine but wonder if there any DIY for it? i don't want to screw it up without know what do with it :oops: :roll: :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 1, 2010 Author Share Posted July 1, 2010 I never did writeup. :oops: I'll see what I can do when I get a chance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cz777 Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 a heads up on the lub to use on linkage -from working on M.benz for years now and their school.....ATF 2/3 with STP oil 1/3 this mix is great for most things etc short of sex ...i heard it was tried there too ! :jump: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Been using Dri-Slide on my motorcycle cables for years and tried it on the hood cable. It has a needle applicator that you can insert into the cable sheath and squirt it in until it flows out the other end. Can pull the hood release cable with two fingers now. Good stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88msftcomanche Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 Just wanted to say thanks Pete for this write-up it was a god send. My jeep was stuck somewhere 20 miles away from the house with the oil cap off inside the hood cause the oil change shop didn't put it on tight enough >< but i went to close my hood came back with a new oil cap and the damn hood wouldnt open. Went home pissed off looked at this write-up and bada bing bada boom fixed in about 30 minutes :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my86mj Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 had the same problem about a week ago. with it not shutting. pb blast and wirebrush (obviously) and close it with your hand a couple of times to make sure the mechanism is still actually functioning. when mine went i found out the spring had unwound itself. lucky for me i have a single latch in the center so i only had to do it once Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche87 Posted October 15, 2012 Share Posted October 15, 2012 hey Pete got a question. would this still work for a right hand drive cherokee? my dad is going to pick one up soon from a freind of his and he knows the hood won't open by using the handle. thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 15, 2012 Author Share Posted October 15, 2012 it should. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche87 Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 sweet! thanks Pete! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
expeditionnw Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 also, this is no fun when your engine bay catches fire and melts through your hood realease cable, forcing you to watch helplessly as your engine bay is consumed by a fire you can't get the hood open to put out. ask me how i know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
54bobby Posted February 1, 2013 Share Posted February 1, 2013 rock auto has new cables for less than 19 bucks. worth a 20 spot if your cable is getting worn. an ounce of prevention. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepComancher Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 What to do if your cables breaks, kinda depends on where it breaks. 1) Handle breaks. Get out a pair of pliers. (Out of 10+ Jeeps, I have only had 1 handle break.). 2) At the hood hinge, pull harder, it may just be kinked. (If broken, continue to 3.) (This happened to my 90 XJ just 3 weeks ago, if the rubber-like pad is loose near the hood hinge, leave it alone, it may be keeping your cable from being crushed) 3) Anywhere else, reach as others have said, or start taking the fron panel off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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