Manifold install

[eaglescout526]

Alright my 4.0 brethren, let’s talk about manifold installation on specifically the I6 family. 
How are y’all getting the bolts in and get it to bolt up? About to fight with it tonight on the Eagle, I’ve got most of the top row in minus the ones are the back of the head.

[derf]

Wobble sockets on an extension.  They combine a universal joint with a socket.

 

 

The 258 in my CJ needed a 9/16" socket.

[eaglescout526]

13 minutes ago, derf said:

Wobble sockets on an extension.  They combine a universal joint with a socket.

 

 

The 258 in my CJ needed a 9/16" socket.

 

Those are fancy. I need some of those. 
 

But what about getting the bolts in while the the exhaust manifold is too close and can’t get a bolt threaded?

[fiatslug87]

I recall using a 14mm(??) ratcheting combination wrench.

[derf]

8 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

 

Those are fancy. I need some of those. 
 

But what about getting the bolts in while the the exhaust manifold is too close and can’t get a bolt threaded?

Those sockets are shallow enough you can use them to push the bolt into the hole as you spin it to get it started.  I get the exhaust only bolts (2x center top and the ones towards the bottom at either end) more or less snug.

 

It does take some patience but it's possible.

[derf]

2 minutes ago, fiatslug87 said:

I recall using a 14mm(??) ratcheting combination wrench.

Yeah, 14mm is basically 9/16".

[eaglescout526]

29 minutes ago, derf said:

It does take some patience but it's possible.

That’s what I thought. I didn’t know if anyone had a trick for doing this. I know it’s the same situation with the 2.5L. Patience and prying. 

[89 MJ]

57 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

Patience and prying.

And some swearing, at least in your head

[eaglescout526]

26 minutes ago, 89 MJ said:

And some swearing, at least in your head

actually I only sweared maybe twice. I was able to jam a big flat head in between 6 and it moved the space enough for me to get 5 bolt in. And then I was able to get 6 in. Time to eat and do the lowers…yay. 

[AZJeff]

All the fasteners on the bottom side of the manifold should be changed to studs and nuts.  It is FAR easier to line up a nut on to a stud than it is to try and start a bolt into a blind hole in the head.

[eaglescout526]

36 minutes ago, AZJeff said:

All the fasteners on the bottom side of the manifold should be changed to studs and nuts.  It is FAR easier to line up a nut on to a stud than it is to try and start a bolt into a blind hole in the head.

I agree. Although what’s incredibly odd is I usually have to fight the lower bolts, but this time I didn’t. All threaded in just fine. Either this car likes me or I just got lucky. 

[Eagle_SX4]

11 hours ago, eaglescout526 said:

I agree. Although what’s incredibly odd is I usually have to fight the lower bolts, but this time I didn’t. All threaded in just fine. Either this car likes me or I just got lucky. 

The 4.2 intake manifold is easier to install because the runners are about half the length of the 4.0 runners.

 

Also glad to hear that it is going back together smoothly.

[pizzaman09]

I've used a ratcheting box end wrench to put a bolt in at number 6 as the factory stud was missing.  I also used the same wrench to snug up the others as they were loose.  Just did it laying down under the truck.

[eaglescout526]

I actually got it all buttoned up last night, did the finishing touches this morning and able to drive it to my folks for thanks giving. 
 

I appreciate the input yall! Now go spend time with your loved ones. Weather it’s a Jeep or family, go spend it! 

[hgeranium]

How was it getting the manifold off? I've heard you can take it off for the gasket without removing the heat shield/messing with the fuel rail but I was curious what I would be in for. Maybe doing the extra work would be worth it to have an easier time pulling the manifold off.

[eaglescout526]

46 minutes ago, hgeranium said:

How was it getting the manifold off? I've heard you can take it off for the gasket without removing the heat shield/messing with the fuel rail but I was curious what I would be in for. Maybe doing the extra work would be worth it to have an easier time pulling the manifold off.

 

Well what I was working on was the 258 4.2L which is carbureted, it was pretty easy to get off and was suspiciously easy to get back on too. If you can get all the bolts out, you can move it far enough back to clear the alignment dowels and remove the gasket and put a new one on if youre looking to do that easily.

[hgeranium]

15 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

 

Well what I was working on was the 258 4.2L which is carbureted, it was pretty easy to get off and was suspiciously easy to get back on too. If you can get all the bolts out, you can move it far enough back to clear the alignment dowels and remove the gasket and put a new one on if youre looking to do that easily.

How was your mileage in terms of hardware? I had trouble finding suitable replacement hardware and I see most people just reuse what they have. Mine don’t look awful but the heads are starting to become a bit rounded. A couple of them I need to go up to 15mm instead of 14. 

[eaglescout526]

45 minutes ago, hgeranium said:

How was your mileage in terms of hardware? I had trouble finding suitable replacement hardware and I see most people just reuse what they have. Mine don’t look awful but the heads are starting to become a bit rounded. A couple of them I need to go up to 15mm instead of 14. 

Theyre pretty good actually. I didn’t have an issue with them. I’ve learned that working on the Eagle made me actually use SAE sockets and wrenches vs the metric when I’m working on the Jeeps. From what I remember, new hardware can be had. I know if you get bolts for a Dakota or possibly a wrangler that has the 2.5L, the washers are RTV or siliconed to the bolt which is pretty damn smart. I wish I saved the part number for them. I might have thinking about it. 

[75sv1]

Ditto or Tritto one the studs. I think Boostwerks and other make kits. I use a crowsfoot on the top ones, to torque them down. What header you use can be an issue as to ease of torquing them down. The 2000-2001 are a Royal PITA. The 99+ intake can cause issues. I installed a Pace Setter exhaust and a 99+ intake. I had one bolt that was an issue. I could get all the others with an extension. I needed a bit shorter torque wrench. 

[AZJeff]

All the bolts on the old four and six cylinder engines in Jeeps are SAE/imperial sizes and threads.  They are also only Grade Five, meaning that any decent hardware store should have replacements.  
The only tough thing to get are the conical washers for the connections that span between the intake and exhaust ports on the head, but they can be cleaned up with a wire wheel and some files (and painted with header paint to limit further corrosion.

 

for the bolts that hold the exhaust pipe to the header/manifold, I ditch the OEM stuff and use stainless steel bolts and brass nuts.   (Stainless washers as needed also helps). This makes removal later on a snap.

[GonzoTheGreat]

I would take everything off, more for the chance at a thorough cleaning/inspection of the mating surfaces than ease of access. NAPA usually has exhaust hardware in stock. They're all 3/8 X 16 so you could piece a kit together yourself though. I would reuse those stock spring washers. I haven't found a place to buy replacements, and they're pretty unique.

[fiatslug87]

McMaster-Carr sells conical spring washers.

[GonzoTheGreat]

5 hours ago, fiatslug87 said:

McMaster-Carr sells conical spring washers.

Thanks Mike. I should have known. They're even available in stainless! Cool!

[AZJeff]

The conical washers sold by McMaster are “Belleville washers” and are slightly different than what AMC used on the Jeep engines.  Belleville washers are actually conical springs and can deflect, whereas the OEM washers are rigid.

 

that said, the Belleville washers should work just fine, if thick enough.  If they are too flexible, they can be stacked for more strength.

[75sv1]

The 'washers' I pulled off my '88 MJ were flat with a 'step' in them. The steep was for the difference between the Intake manifold and the header.