REM installed and seeking translations

[NC Tom]

I finally installed my @NickInTimeFilms REM unit. Went in pretty easy. Doesn't fit quite right, but I'm sure I can fix it.

I decided to post only the readings that are/seemed out of spec.

 

It's a big ask, however, if anyone will take the time to read through these and share their opinions, I would appreciate it.

 

All readings are at idle:

MAP 22.9

VAC 4.2

RPM 582-635

vO2 0.45-.055

EX RICH

LP OPEN

TPS 12

IGN 12/13

mS 9.6

IAC 1 (IAC is not listed in the manual, but is on the REM)

LT 89

 

Many of these appear to be way off normal. I'm wondering if any of them are jointly affected by a single component.

[fiatslug87]

Your O2 sensor is not working properly. Test the resistance between A&B on the sensor itself, should be between 5-7Ω. Aftermarket ones have not been working properly in my opinion.

 

Your TPS reading at idle should be 17, easy to adjust search in Cruisers Tips.

[89 MJ]

Your REM should've come with a printout with information on ranges for all of those parameters.

 

VAC is manifold vacuum, so that number will depend on how much you're stepping on the throttle. You should be closer to 15" Hg at idle though.

RPM seems normal, maybe a little low.

For vO2, reading less than 2.5V, your engine is running rich. For greater than 2.5V, it is running lean. This is normal if the engine wasn't up to temperature yet.

EX RICH agrees with vO2

LP open means the engine is in open loop, which means its running rich.

TPS should be reading 17% when closed, so you need to adjust that.

IGN is your ignition timing. 12-13 seems perfect for base timing.

LT is long term fuel trim. Reading less than 128 means the ECU is commanding less fuel on average than base to run. If its reading 128, its using the base fuel curve. Greater than 128 means the ECU is calling for more fuel than base. 

 

All that data taken from @NickInTimeFilms website:

https://nickintimedesign.com/rem-gauge-readouts/

[Ωhm]

Few more items for your check list:

- Higher than normal fuel pressure

- Leaking fuel injector(s)

- Leaking fuel pressure regulator/check for fuel in hose to manifold

 

 

IAC=Idle Air Control

[fiatslug87]

My O2 comment was assuming it was up to temperature.

[NickInTimeFilms]

2 hours ago, NC Tom said:

All readings are at idle:

MAP 22.9

VAC 4.2

RPM 582-635

vO2 0.45-.055

EX RICH

LP OPEN

TPS 12

IGN 12/13

mS 9.6

IAC 1 (IAC is not listed in the manual, but is on the REM)

LT 89

Figure i'd chime in.

First thing I'm noticing is your vacuum at idle which is really low, but maybe that has a bit to do with the low idle. Check your map vac line is clean and tight in the lower TB port.

The IAC reading showing 1 is odd though as that should be indicating that the ECU is continually trying to lower the idle even though it's already low.

 

TPS is a little low but not the end of the world. adjusting it and resetting the ecu may help a little, or at least feel like it till the ecu relearns the fuel trims. 

 

Speaking of, LT fuel trim is a tad low which sounds like it's running richer than usual, and showing by the o2 sensor i'd say that i'd agree. It's not holding closed loop so it may be too rich to even correct for. Do you have aftermarket injectors?

[rokinn]

I'd start with the vacuum first.  Does your heat go only through the defrost?  If so then you have a leak.  Check the various lines and see if they hold vacuum.  Then move on to some of the others.

[NC Tom]

1 minute ago, rokinn said:

I'd start with the vacuum first.  Does your heat go only through the defrost?  If so then you have a leak.  Check the various lines and see if they hold vacuum.  Then move on to some of the others.

Yes, heat us defrost only. I'll look into it. Any other details?

[rokinn]

Check to make sure the line after it passes the battery down to the vac ball isn't broken.  You can probably just pull on it a little bit and it will come out from there if it is broken.  You can buy a cheap vac tester from harbor freight and test the other lines.  There are other ways to test for leaks also.  Perhaps others will chime in.

[NC Tom]

19 hours ago, NickInTimeFilms said:

Speaking of, LT fuel trim is a tad low which sounds like it's running richer than usual, and showing by the o2 sensor i'd say that i'd agree. It's not holding closed loop so it may be too rich to even correct for. Do you have aftermarket injectors?

I do have aftermarket injectors. I've been thinking about putting the stock back in because it seems like I have more issues with the non-stock.

[NC Tom]

21 hours ago, 89 MJ said:

Your REM should've come with a printout with information on ranges for all of those parameters.

I have it. It's the only way I knew I had some out of spec shenanigans going on.

 

21 hours ago, 89 MJ said:

VAC is manifold vacuum, so that number will depend on how much you're stepping on the throttle. You should be closer to 15" Hg at idle though.

RPM seems normal, maybe a little low.

 

 The VAC stays low the entire time. It dropped to 1 while driving this afternoon."

 

For vO2, reading less than 2.5V, your engine is running rich. For greater than 2.5V, it is running lean. This is normal if the engine wasn't up to temperature yet.

EX RICH agrees with vO2

 

It was warmed up. I don't have any emissions. I honestly do not know if I have an o2 sensor. Never looked.

 

All that data taken from @NickInTimeFilms website:

https://nickintimedesign.com/rem-gauge-readouts/

 

[NC Tom]

21 hours ago, fiatslug87 said:

Your O2 sensor is not working properly. Test the resistance between A&B on the sensor itself, should be between 5-7Ω. Aftermarket ones have not been working properly in my opinion.

 

Your TPS reading at idle should be 17, easy to adjust search in Cruisers Tips.

 

No sure I have an O2. Have to check. I know my CAT has been removed. I live in county where that stuff isn't checked.

[89 MJ]

Vacuum should drop as throttle is increased. At WOT, you should have 0 vacuum

 

If the engine was at operating temperature, I think you're problems are a combination of a vacuum leak somewhere and a bad O2 sensor.

[NC Tom]

21 hours ago, Ωhm said:

Few more items for your check list:

- Higher than normal fuel pressure

- Leaking fuel injector(s)

- Leaking fuel pressure regulator/check for fuel in hose to manifold

 

 

IAC=Idle Air Control

 

Ok. However, I think these items are ok. My last check of the FP was about +/- 30. Haven't noticed any fuel under the hood.

[NC Tom]

4 minutes ago, 89 MJ said:

Vacuum should drop as throttle is increased. At WOT, you should have 0 vacuum

 

If the engine was at operating temperature, I think you're problems are a combination of a vacuum leak somewhere and a bad O2 sensor.

Well, that would seem simple enough.

@fiatslug87 Feels the new O2 sensors are not reliable. Any suggestions? NAPA?

[Ωhm]

29 minutes ago, NC Tom said:

Haven't noticed any fuel under the hood.

 

With a leaking fuel pressure regulator, fuel would be sucked directly into the manifold via the vacuum hose connection. Disconnect hose and look/smell for fuel. Reinstall your factory injectors. INJ PW=9.6mS and LTFT=84 is most confusing, for me at least.

[89 MJ]

If I recall correctly, the Bosch O2 sensors are the ones that are sometimes ok, all of the others are no good. You can also use a wideband O2 sensor and the REM to control open loop and closed loop.

[pizzaman09]

1 hour ago, 89 MJ said:

If I recall correctly, the Bosch O2 sensors are the ones that are sometimes ok, all of the others are no good. You can also use a wideband O2 sensor and the REM to control open loop and closed loop.

I had a bad time with a new Bosch O2 sensor in mine, determined that shortly after installing my REM.  I purchased an NTK sensor and it works flawlessly, super responsive and holds the AFR very close to ideal based on the REM readout. 

[89 MJ]

18 minutes ago, pizzaman09 said:

I had a bad time with a new Bosch O2 sensor in mine, determined that shortly after installing my REM.  I purchased an NTK sensor and it works flawlessly, super responsive and holds the AFR very close to ideal based on the REM readout. 

I can never remember if Bosch is the good one or NTK was the good one. 
 

Disregard the first part of my previous statement. Get an NTK. 

[NC Tom]

Well, @rokinn , you were correct. The hose connecting to the MAP was sloppy and leaking. Crusier54 said it was "prone to fail". I fixed that, but must have others as my heat still blows only at the Defroster. One down, infinite to go!

 

VAC reading 17 at idle.

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

 

The hose I had to fix (several times) to get air back from defrost only, is the one along the yellow line.  At the firewall there is a grommet that passes two hoses, the yellow line and the green line.  My green line also broke but that one did not cause the defrost out only issue, it has something to do with the heater control.  As you can see I have attempted to keep it from breaking yet again by bracing it multiple places with tie wraps.  But at some point it will probably go , it is very brittle.

 

[llhat]

years ago, when i had defrost on acceleration,  it was the line leading to the 'bubble' located between the battery and the fender,  new section,  seemed to have worked.

[NC Tom]

3 hours ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said:

 

The hose I had to fix (several times) to get air back from defrost only, is the one along the yellow line.  At the firewall there is a grommet that passes two hoses, the yellow line and the green line.  My green line also broke but that one did not cause the defrost out only issue, it has something to do with the heater control.  As you can see I have attempted to keep it from breaking yet again by bracing it multiple places with tie wraps.  But at some point it will probably go , it is very brittle.

 

That's interesting. I'll check it out. 

[AnotherOldJeepGuy]

1 hour ago, NC Tom said:

That's interesting. I'll check it out.

Be very gentle with this hose and especially take care not to break it at the firewall, I don't know what is on the other side exactly, or how hard it might be to get to that end!

[watchamakalit]

9 hours ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said:

Be very gentle with this hose and especially take care not to break it at the firewall, I don't know what is on the other side exactly, or how hard it might be to get to that end!

It is the vacuum line that runs the heater\ac control.  They are a hard plastic line factory.