llhat

was the 'height' of the pushrod checked with the new master cylinder and booster? If too short, full travel maybe not there, if too long, not enough stroke...

been running a gutted housing for i can't remember how many years.... no inspection requirements for me either 'now' but during my life with it, would always pass a visual, did not have Gas testing here.

get the service port leaks repaired, "maybe" as simple as new schrader valves. my 89 had r12, local shop found the rubber hose behind battery going to the condenser was leaking... and it was deteriorated internally... could not easily get to the condenser fittings to replace as a unit, but these guys were good.. silver brazed new fittings to existing pipe made a replaceable hose section, we went with 134a and it has been ok ever since... ( knock on wood) somewhere around 7 years now... (guess)

iirc, The CTS coolant Temperature Sensor, is a two wire, down on the side of the block on the driver's side... could be just above the engine mount. there is an active thread with images just below these threads... read to the end. BTW... that posted manual has testing procedures for mostly all of the sensors.....

I replaced this sensor back in Feb 2025 when I had an idle issue. The issue turned out to be very dirty TB and IAC and was completely resolved after cleaning them and putting in a new TB gasket. Of course it could still be contributing, just not because of age. age may not be a factor on the O2 sensor... many reported DOA

congrats, but sorry it was so much work... I (now regrettably) left my skid plate off on my first tank replacement ( caused by debris between skid and tank rusting tank).... now many years later wanted to reinstall, but my dear departed Dad included the front skid and the tank skid in a steel scrap run.... oh well.

agree on GM appearance and rightly so. shims.. one side slotted for insertion, the mounting bolt on that side loosened to get clearance and still support starter, other side bolt removed completely, then inserted once shim is aligned.

a WAG here, but may be more related to the Transmission side of the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), like slightly dirty contacts inside. i've seen some strange behavior at times, feathering the throttle a bit seemed to make a slight change and effect a shift I've intentions to cut into the ground wire on both sides of TPS ( tee into the existing wire) and bond them to the intake hoping to improve the ground signal.

glad it is back... that video, it would make me believe 'dragging starter' from days of yore.... wonder what the amperage draw was? had to be 'up there' to pull down that much... no way it was creating enough engine rpm for the computer to detect and engage quickly even though it 'caught' and ran at the end of video.

think covered in the PDF above " start" ......

sorry for that red herring on the NSS connector... it looked 'right' from the image. Did you click and open the PDF files i attached above.. the one named 'start' may be of assistance.

that may be the connector to the NSS on the AW4 transmission... that could also cause a no-start you will probably need the wiring diagram eventually.... 7way female.pdf 7way.pdf start.pdf

my 89 long bed tank has two recesses in the top of the tank, in the recesses are holes, there is a rubber grommet and a fitting inserted. attached to each fitting is a small hose, these meet at a 'tee' and proceed forward to the charcoal canister under the hood... these hoses should be visible on each side of the port for the fuel filter. ensure these hoses are not kinked is the first step... from there... dunno....

Just today received a coupon email from HF and that harness is in the list... think 20bux or so... coupon good a couple of weeks.

THANK YOU for those details, will be giving this a shot !

so far, how has the clear vinyl tubing mated up with the combustion gases, fuel, etc? Would 1/4" vacuum hose be an improvement?

ok, I can see the larger OD hose... and seems like a doable thing. i thought though the restriction was in the grommet and not in the hose ( white 'nipple) I'd also guess you did not change the nipple screwed into the intake manifold? IIRC the HO change-over utilized a larger nipple on the intake, as well as an even larger hose. I've been on a process of cleaning my 'original' design hose with more frequency... instead of each oil change.

care to expand more on this? did you do a write up?

i added a housing to my 89 for a mechanical gage... almost wish i had not. to start with, the supplied adapter screwed in OK, but the bulb for the gage would not seal as the bulb itself bottomed out in the housing and the nut on the bulb would not tighten down. I obtained an adapter that got me the height, but i believe the bulb is not fully immersed in the coolant. running I believe it is about 15 degrees low. when I stop, the gage will increase from heat soak. now if i had used an electric gage, the sensor would probably directly thread in the housing. maybe on a project that drains the block, I'll move the bulb for the mechanical gage.... maybe not.

so a group 34 over the standard ?? group 58? I can see the spec comparison 500+ CCA versus 800 CCA for the group 34... so the dimensions are the same? have a wally group 58 dated 2021, so at some point I know i'll have to update also... try to drive it more often to keep a charge on it... but still probably less than 2k/ year.

read in the link I provided, there are some diagrams in the attachments and some tips from Ohm on some of the pin-out voltages, connections.

Memory of 'my' issue... and @ohm's help... The Solenoid for 1'st gear is being energized if you start out in D and the vehicle readily moves... I drove mine for some time manually shifting the gears, just not getting overdrive and remembering to shift down at stops. the non shift could "possibly" be in the TCU, not instructing the gear 2 solenoid to energize.... I would have to go back and study the posts between Ohm and I and review some of the wiring diagrams.. there is no board level diagram for the TCU. would suggest testing the solenoids for resistance values.... even if you remove the pan to do so... Unsure IF this could be speed sensor related, and what the TCU does with that input. another point... the cable adjustment at the throttle body.. IIRC it mostly controls the line pressure, or am I incorrect on this point... ??? link to my old post..

yes, but think the in-line is 10a, located near the TCU mounting location under the lower dash panel.

Partially true, the AW4 when controlled by the TCU does shift through the solenoids, when using the column lever, the shifter engages a manual valve, shifting the 'gears', but no overdrive (4th) or 2nd, or the converter lockup. what happens if the OP tries to start movement in "D", if there's an issue with electronic shifting, the transmission will try to start in 3rd gear and it won't like it.

the directional control for the hvac uses that small vacuum line, BUT the vacuum canister behind the front bumper if cracked can do the same thing. i had my doubts on the muffler would fix it...