llhat

be sure to check that vinyl hose frequently, combustion gases may have a reaction with it. Can agree on your principle of getting more flow, that original hard plastic line is small... the Later HO versions used a much larger line on the rear Valve Cover port... there is a thread somewhere on here for that mod... I just have not attempted it yet.. It used the HO rear grommet... and larger line as well as larger nipple on intake port. I frequently remove my small line and spray brake keen or choke cleaner through it...

i believe what you are showing in the picture is actually #22, not #24 IF i understand that image to be at bottom of the bell housing.... IF it is #22, it can be removed, hammered out a bit and reinstalled. IF confirmed to be #24, don't think i would be too concerned with it.

i cannot tell in the image... but by your description of the actions on removal, the nut was of the thread distortion / deformation type, and a lock nut. typically these nuts have some pressure placed on them after threading to 'smoosh' the top few threads. to me, if the new nuts have nyloc design, use them. I do not think they are vastly superior or anything, but will work, and you've got them.

there are different types of lock nuts, some with the nylon insert that locks, others use some type of deformation to the nut to create interference either as a deformation at the 'top' of the nut where the bolt would stick through, or there could be some type of knurl or 'teeth' on the face of the nut flange....

difficulty level on install? what has to be removed? I saw a listing for a pair... mine have broken apart over years...

metric or sae, do not use a cheep bolt !! ensure they are grade marked, grade 8 for sae, corresponding for metric and are of the same design, shoulder, thread length, head style ( integral washer )

On the positive terminal of battery follow the small gauge wire to the area under the relay cover. think you will find a suitable location to connect you + power wire for that harness. there's a place there with multiple fusible links connected for power.

could be as eaglescout suggest, takes only a gallon or few to get below sender access hole... recently went through this a few months ago on a NEW sender the O ring had deteriorated within months of new install... changed o-ring vendor and 'so far' OK other area are the two vapor line access on TOP of the tank... there's a valve up there connected to two vacuum lines leading to charcoal canister under hood. the lines could be rotten or have dislodged. the valves are retained with a rubber grommet also... you say no drips, that is also good... and bad for diagnosis check fuel fill also on fender side of tank.

if the actuator does not hold vacuum, some JB weld instead of bondo .... or replace it completely.

my 89 was on large hex bolt thru the housing. IIRC used a 'kit' from Mahle, Felpro also has a 'kit'.... I'd watch out for off-brands as the o-ring material can be inferior. not finding Mahle kits on regular sources ( amazon, evay ) but fel pro is showing.... leery of some of the others. heat and time does a number on these.... for what it is woth... why not OEM Mopar kit? IF this is where your leak originates...

good suggestion on the delay and chime modules, I had not considered those... but from the OP's post

would need to be between the horn switch and the appropriate terminal on the horn relay... (noted it still blows fuse with relay removed), inside a harness somewhere...........

yes, that is correct... just to clarify, this is eliminating the CPS connector... engine will not run with the CPS deleted completely...

many MJ stock with 3.54 gearing, what is your present front gearing?

this thread has a great image of an uninstalled front skid plate..(scroll down in the thread) as well as a couple of comments from Cruiser from the past on them... I will agree on getting in the way....

just noted this on another search, may be of help to you in regards to the studs, etc...

mine had rubber, it was above the skid plate... it was a steel skid plate that connected to frame rails, extended from below radiator on an angle downwards ending before the tie rods. I recall when it was on there always had to wipe oil off of it from changing the oil filter ( or seem to recall.. been some years now)

that ain't bad on hella... I used a Cibe set that were an over the counter GM application... had friend that was parts manager.. though no longer working, they are still mounted... need bulb assembly for them.... think bulb holder too...

Yeah.. hind site.. the front skid plate and that thick rubber shield below Radiator, etc also made that journey to the world of scrap after I removed it for something... second owner of this 89 since 1997, I may have it documented 'why' i took the front skid off.... maybe not...

"years" ago my 89 long bed developed a fuel leak.. guessed it.. corrosion on bottom, dirt trapped tween tank and metal skid... replaced the tank 'then' but did not reinstall the skid... it laid around... "sometime" on a scrap metal run, my dad evidently tossed it.. ( 2010-2012 era).. so it is gone, I've come to terms with it.

my late father had locals to make up an exhaust... from cat back.. think flowmaster muffler and then pipe exiting to your location, never saw any damage to end cap..... before he bent the snit out of that side of bumper basically destroying the end cap and that side of bumper ( but NO body damage).... he went to jeep dealer ( we had friends in parts department) and he bought me a new rear bumper that I have YET to install... not even taken it out of package.... i think it was a chrome version... know also bought a new front chrome bumper also... this has now to be about 20 years or so... procrastination... and snitty faded grey paint, so why ??

and still occurring... this afternoon, 'ok' but this morning 502 gateway errors.

increase extension of tip out of body line.... just increase distance... those end caps are not 'that' plentiful to melt away

leaning on air in system... is my guess mine did it when cold, I suctioned some fluid off and put some lucas PS treat in it.. seemed to have helped... this was before a pressure line replacement by shop when doing other work, has not done it since... there was a line leaking.... so maybe allowing air into system? had similar issue on a dodge 3500 cummins, suctioned out fluid multiple times and replaced to effect a fluid change over time.. helped it a bunch... was some fancy arsed $$ fluid also...

cannot remember the brand, but did use some LED bulbs for backup... or tried... I had trouble with fitment in the socket, seemed like the pins were too shallow to engage, you just could not twist in the bulb to lock it... the solder "point" on the end of the bulb seemed like the place to modify, ruined one bulb trying that tactic... this was last fall, just cannot remember what I finally did... I was also repairing the housing from a broken tab holding the clip nut on the tailgate side of the housing... I made an entire metal clip to sandwich the plastic and allow the screw to bite... so far so good on that.... was cheeper than a housing!!! some others applaud the illumination difference