llhat

would you not test the resistance of the sensor ? unless wanting to change it out anyhoo... and yep, gonna lose some fluid (most of it)

this may cover 'something'...

try this not sure if correct pics are there..

but have you checked for spark? pull the coil wire on the distributor (not dizzy) cap and set it close to something metal in the area, have helper try to start the vehicle, see if the spark jumps from the coil wire to metal... (this is easier than pulling a spark plug IMHO). if you are brave, hold on to the coil wire LoL........... (don't do this)

there was an article on conversion to a different valve cover grommet and an elbow from later vehicles... gave part numbers and info... will try a search on it... try this... i was going to do this for the J hose at the air box, but the 19/32 hose would not make that turn... went a different method to update the J hose (on the other end of where you are talking)...

@ the fuel filter.. yes, fuel injection rated hose, and ditch the worm clamps... dorman has some fuel injection clamps in the 'help' section... they do not cut into the line 'quite as bad' ... the worm clamps tear em up.

ditto on the flexible lines

sounds like... caliper piston sticking, not retracting in the caliper bore. Internal residual valve located in master cylinder... Also mentioned a booster change... are you sure the actuator rod from the booster to the master cylinder is adjusted correctly? If it extends too far, the valving in the master cylinder can block pressure return. One test on brake pressure.. when the wheel is 'locked up' loosen the bleeder screw to see if there's a lot of pressure there if the wheel releases, then see above on booster change... if not then I'd say piston sticking in the bore.

solenoid on the starter it does a couple of functions, transfers power from the battery to the windings, and 'pulls' the lever to engage the bendix to the flywheel there is also the starter relay up behind the battery under the plastic cover over the coil and some relays. this relay supplies a signal to the solenoid ( small wire) to energize. start.pdfstart.pdf Sounds like starter winding shorted to me... and some contacts 'fried' in the relay or solenoid ( the extreme voltage draw that you are experiencing) i take it you did not release any 'smoke'? check your cables for resistance or damage... good luck!

4000? yikes, this with vacuum lines plugged? will it run 'off' of the cleaner? i think i see fuel in the clear filter... far from expert, but the choke is still engaged on the weber, this activates a 'fast idle cam' which opens the throttle plates at the base of the carburetor, increasing idle speed. ensure the fast idle cam disengaged and basic visuals for vacuum leaks. good luck

what i used to see was this indicated there is a bulb out .... in your case muliple, as i have seen either left or right and then find the bad blub in your image above, silver cylinder is hazard flasher,, see the "haz" and down-pointing arrow? the yellow is the turn flasher... or potentially a buzzer for key in ignition or the like, i don't have my electrical diagram handy. yes, check those grounds, and the light sockets at each light, expect to replace some of them... i do not know about the alternating side marker/park thing. remember, the park light is one one filament in the bulb, the turn is the other filament (brighter)

If the detroit axle components are re-boxed Moog, then how could they be 'crap'? Used a Detroit axle rear disc rotor kit for a Dodge 3500 dual rear wheel where i needed rotors. I hired the install and the firm indicated there were no issues they could see with quality of the supplied components.

got a hydraulic clutch? looks like a bleeder fitting for some type of hydraulic... certainly not electrical.

had to look up what an Oetiker clamp was... interesting and visibly a quality item.

Just from memory I think the pigtails on both the + and - were at least 12 gage.... I do not think relay control, I'd have to go pull the cover and see where it went... i think to the main terminal (threaded on this image) there are leads heading to the alternator from the relay also from that threaded terminal. starter solenoid terminal goes to the solenoid ON the starter to energize fuel pump terminal bypasses the fuel pump relay block and ballast resisitor (IIRC) i know on that terminal you can jump from battery + to that wire and pump will run continuously

IIRC just a few months ago I replaced both battery cables on my 89 sourced them from O'reilly, both 4 gauge and both had a secondary lead at the battery end with a butt connector. on the positive side, i added a short length and a ring terminal and attached to the starter relay under the electric cover behind battery on the negative side, I did the same and went to the fender for an additional ground both were 4 gage, (wanted to step up to 2 gage) and have seemed to perform ok. this was after a starter install... "maybe" failed from oil leak... maybe not but 169k on it... starter marked Car Quest ( probably from advance as CQ store was closed after AA acquired them.

agree on fuel injection hose, name brand (gates, etc) also strive to use fuel injection hose clamps , not the 'typical' worm clamps. think most FLAPS have the dorman assortment.

do not believe the 5 lug pattern is on 5.5 circle, if they were the centerlines of both 5 and 6 holes would be on same circle. no, I would not 'like' the result shown above at the 2:30 o'clock position, but like others, do not think there's an effect on braking.

years ago, when i had defrost on acceleration, it was the line leading to the 'bubble' located between the battery and the fender, new section, seemed to have worked.

just an FYI on the above link for the PCV valve.. it is on page 7.... thank you for sharing that info...

i can understand that joy of having something 'fixed' guess the same reason I did not 'test' the 'other' TCU i purchased as a spare... I have it marked 'untested' on shelf ; my original is marked 'bad'.... it would be a good selling point for your original to know if 'working' or not... I am 'in' for the over hundred each for the ones I bought also. yes, these TCU have a big asking price... and are always questionable for operation.

Congratulations !!! Glad the source of the issue was discovered... ? Did you try your old TCU after the NSS? or was that someone else that purchased a TCU and the problem was not resolved?

5K Got it done. yep...$$ talks and maybe that is not enough! good luck with parts search.

^^^ i understand this to be true, but 'many' years ago i used a switch obtained from parts store and put i in the space on dash for the oem fog.... it looks 'different' but is functional ( remember 'many' years ago)... used an aftermarket relay for couple of retangular Chibie lights (these were GM parts counter units!) which now don't work and unsure what i use to replace them. also have seen many OEM switches on the evilbay....

believe i linked info on testing your sensor above....