llhat

got a hydraulic clutch? looks like a bleeder fitting for some type of hydraulic... certainly not electrical.

had to look up what an Oetiker clamp was... interesting and visibly a quality item.

Just from memory I think the pigtails on both the + and - were at least 12 gage.... I do not think relay control, I'd have to go pull the cover and see where it went... i think to the main terminal (threaded on this image) there are leads heading to the alternator from the relay also from that threaded terminal. starter solenoid terminal goes to the solenoid ON the starter to energize fuel pump terminal bypasses the fuel pump relay block and ballast resisitor (IIRC) i know on that terminal you can jump from battery + to that wire and pump will run continuously

IIRC just a few months ago I replaced both battery cables on my 89 sourced them from O'reilly, both 4 gauge and both had a secondary lead at the battery end with a butt connector. on the positive side, i added a short length and a ring terminal and attached to the starter relay under the electric cover behind battery on the negative side, I did the same and went to the fender for an additional ground both were 4 gage, (wanted to step up to 2 gage) and have seemed to perform ok. this was after a starter install... "maybe" failed from oil leak... maybe not but 169k on it... starter marked Car Quest ( probably from advance as CQ store was closed after AA acquired them.

agree on fuel injection hose, name brand (gates, etc) also strive to use fuel injection hose clamps , not the 'typical' worm clamps. think most FLAPS have the dorman assortment.

do not believe the 5 lug pattern is on 5.5 circle, if they were the centerlines of both 5 and 6 holes would be on same circle. no, I would not 'like' the result shown above at the 2:30 o'clock position, but like others, do not think there's an effect on braking.

years ago, when i had defrost on acceleration, it was the line leading to the 'bubble' located between the battery and the fender, new section, seemed to have worked.

just an FYI on the above link for the PCV valve.. it is on page 7.... thank you for sharing that info...

i can understand that joy of having something 'fixed' guess the same reason I did not 'test' the 'other' TCU i purchased as a spare... I have it marked 'untested' on shelf ; my original is marked 'bad'.... it would be a good selling point for your original to know if 'working' or not... I am 'in' for the over hundred each for the ones I bought also. yes, these TCU have a big asking price... and are always questionable for operation.

Congratulations !!! Glad the source of the issue was discovered... ? Did you try your old TCU after the NSS? or was that someone else that purchased a TCU and the problem was not resolved?

5K Got it done. yep...$$ talks and maybe that is not enough! good luck with parts search.

^^^ i understand this to be true, but 'many' years ago i used a switch obtained from parts store and put i in the space on dash for the oem fog.... it looks 'different' but is functional ( remember 'many' years ago)... used an aftermarket relay for couple of retangular Chibie lights (these were GM parts counter units!) which now don't work and unsure what i use to replace them. also have seen many OEM switches on the evilbay....

believe i linked info on testing your sensor above....

not sure if this thread will help, but gives on advice. https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/aw4-troubleshooting.4244314/ page 23 of this pdf file may be or assistance location in the adapter housing to transfer case (much later years it is on the output of the transfer case) there's also test procedure (but i think this publication is actually for later vehicles) https://cdn.xjjeeps.com/pdf/en-us/aw4-transmission-service-information.pdf

That internal crud does not bode well for low voltage current and detecting small variations... guess someone liked washing their engine a lot?

found a 100 pack of aluminum ones on the evil bay for just a few bux, were in mailbox today. think my 94 GGC with 5.2 had a 'nylon' sealing washer.

don't confuse fusible links with a fuse, there's not a fuse "in" a fusible link. the fusible link has a design where it fails at a certain load (amperage), this is done by carefully engineering the wire itself. replacement fusible link wire should be available at local NAPA or other FLAPS, but nothing entirely wrong with new regular wire and a fuse block.. choose your poison... probably a good idea to consult the FSM (electrical) to see what each one controls,, they are for different circuits.

no, in 'our' investigation did not test speed sensor, i think mainly from the prospective in my situation, the vehicle tried to start movement in high gear, at that point in the logic, the vehicle is stationary and there would be no input from sensor. this would lead one to believe the speed sensor would trigger a 'shift', not a default solenoid application of the first gear solenoid and subsequent signals to S2 and S3. yeah, being able to sort out the TCU at board level would help the 'hobby' of these vehicles.

in my instance, the nss would allow starting in P and N, prohibit in other ranges, and did not have reverse lights... and after i replaced the NSS, had reverse lights and starting, but still would try to move in 'high gear'... but when i looked a the manual's wiring diagram (after Ohm's advice and him saying probably TCU), noted there is an input to the TCU from the NSS providing a signal for D position. So there's the "possibility" this connection in the NSS is not sending that small voltage signal telling the TCU "I'm in drive, take over" Yes, know frustrating and been there... As I just do not know the testing at board level for the TCU, there's still that possibility of a defective unit.. from the assumed ebay seller.

understood, Cup is the 'race' that is in the hub on each end The bearing itself is composed of the cup, and..... Roller is the cylindrical bearing Cage is over the rollers and retains them cone goes over the spindle, rollers ride on it. You cannot see the cone without breaking the cage and removing the rollers, don't do this unless you have a new bearing... but you can do a post-mortem on the assembly The rollers can have bad spots, but you may be able to see them when cleaned cup same way, visible wear any wear (spalling, fretting, pitting, etc) can make the bearing roar.

just following up to see if this is sorted.... one can examine the outer cup surface and the rollers visually, but the issue could be on the cone where the rollers contact... not much way to examine that surface without destroying the cage there's still the possibility of a bad bearing if there's no improvement on the noise..

with the fuse removed, the solenoids are null and void, the shifter changes the manual valve to direct flow directing internal fluid flow, otherwise the solenoids fire to perform the shift. you pull the lever down to 1-2 and with a good tcu it will shift to 2 on its own, otherwise, it will stay in first gear. agree about 'someone' to get to board level on that box for testing and repair, there is a thread on here about someone replacing a resistor on board. he reported most failures have been solder joint failures probably as an effect of age and heat. I found a seller on evay that stated 'rebuilt' tcu, but they were not inexpensive at all... then there's the complete alteration to do toggle switch application of power to the solenoids to manually switch, getting overdrive and converter lockup... but one has to remember to unlock the converter at stoplights.. there's writeups on this process also... IIRC it bypasses the TCU. @Ohm really helped me with tracing out the connectors, etc.. it is frustrating trying to 'fix' but once it is........... betta

made the decision.. a LOT of factors involved... my use and the mud terrains just did not seem like the best fit... was offered a couple of off-brands in 30/ 950 and 235 and if there weren't some issues with the retaining screw on the hub cover, may have gone on with this off-brand, don't even remember name.. option given for the next day... and made decision.. Falken Rubitrek 235's Looks good, rides good, noise lowered... and no bumping, etc in steering... those 30 x950 goodyear gsa times had given up the ghost.. cupping, dry rot, and my records showed they were installed in 2003, and seems tire dated 2003 also... and <25k miles... it was time.

is it possible the evay TCU was also defective... that was my concern also with any purchase there. in my quest, i "knew" my NSS was not proper, as there were no reverse lights. I bought a new one on evay (taiwan mfg) and it worked. Your situation was different than mine, You stating 'starts off great in D, no shift' and My situation was D was a high gear start "and" no shifts. so sounds like if you are starting off with D and D is giving gear ONE, either logic in TCU (through resistors, etc) or a Solenoid problem inside the transmission Have you checked resistance on the the solenoids? it 'can' be done at the connector under hood near transmission dipstick, or at the TCU connector... (see my older thread with advice from Ohm... i do see where you state manual shifting is possible, so on the electronic side is the path.

you indicated reassembly, did you remove both bearings and clean and examine the rollers and races? if your noise remains and you did not do this, will probably continue to make noise also follow that posted above on seating, In all my years never used a torque wrench...