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bought a new stant brand filler cap from ebay, while still new and un-used, put a very thin bead of red silicone between the bottom of the cap suface and the top of the gasket and allowed to cure, in effect making the gasket thicker... was very difficult to tighten up also thinking i would break it... been 'ok' for a few thousand miles now, but do not know if long term solution for this... maybe one day the later valve cover... but Felpro VC gasket not leaking...

a captive nut on this end, should have a regular bolt extending thru the bushings and arm the captive nut wedges against an internal cavity and allows manipulation of the bolt without a wrench needed on the nut side.

couple links may help

will reflect on past year's experience... it is a LONG story, so expect to get glassy eyed... had diagnosed a pump failure last year, had a LOT of gas in tank and I could no longer move the vehicle to my lift... did NOT want to do this in the grass on my back.... local shop was working on an 88 MJ... I asked if they wanted to work on another, so had it towed for them to fix it short story... they installed a new pump-sender assembly, think sourced from Advance (where they get a lot of parts) they said first receipt came in as a dead soldier ... but replacement worked fine... In the interim they said starter was also bad ( oil soaked)... and cables were pretty rotten... told em to 'fix it'... got the call day or two later.. ( think entire experience was like 3 weeks)... Paid em, went on my way... got home, found no new battery cables, so I did that.... yep... badly needed, but i digress... I put some miles on it after some other work.. I had noted a really slow response on fuel level gage, had kept up with miles... and just in general... after 200 miles I would get fuel... onward... Few months ago, filled it up, drove home and put in garage.. next day, found big puddle under... gasoline ( smelled before looking)... but it had stopped... got vehicle out after airing out the garage, and could not see it leak... drove it my next 200+ miles and filled again, this time about 15 miles from home, so figured it HAD to use about a gallon of fuel... which is what i think had leaked out the first time parked on concrete driveway... got out and saw the drips.. gas again... rolled under from passenger side and area around the lock ring was wet and could see seepage, but was unsure IF lock ring or the electrical pass-thru... went back to shop for them to investigate... they just did not give me the 'goody goody' feel in my gut, but needed to try... ( i think they were a bit pissed that I had a different shop to do DIFFERENT work ( and not even on fuel system) well........ this time took so much longer for them to touch it........... and right at 4 weeks got the call it was ready..basically the entire month of October.... I arrived 'ready' for either the BIG bill, or a fight.... I was absolutely surprised at the response... He handed me a bill for like 38 bux... cost of the gasoline... asked what it was... he showed me the old o-ring.. it had torn removing, but.. the rubber had cracked in the internal perimeter and had hardened up.. He said he sourced new one from different source, showed me the NAPA box... I told him was not expecting to get it for nothing and tried to pay him, but he kicked any $$ back my way... this was the big surprise... but now in short... unsure of some of the quality of these o-ring seals... IF I knew the 'dash' number of them would try to source a "VITON" seal from McMaster... the next time... Let's see how long this one lasts...

there's a film of oil inside the dipstick tube in one of the curves on its way down to the crankcase.... only advice... check it cold after sitting overnight, even then unsure what will happen. I don't think i would advise trying to stick something down the empty tube to try an clean the ID, figure whatever used would wind up in the oil pan. Can't remember just how difficult removal of the tube is... maybe someone else has some advice.

will answer for OP, RP rear passenger side, think you can get it from there

my 89 had BFG all terrain 235/75/15 load range c when i obtained it in 1997, but about 70k on those, but aftermarket wheels with shallower backspacing, don't recall rubbing, but no big off road adventures replaced with take-offs from a Wrangler 9.50 x 31 x 15 on mopar aftermarket wheels, these had deeper backspacing, tire/wheel would rub emergency brake cable, so i tied back the cable, don't recall rubbing on front... but no big off road adventures ran those until this year ( about 20 years and 'maybe' 20k miles... those tire had aged out and were giving shimmy problems now with a set of wrangler 'canyons' and back to 235/75/15 Falken Rubitrek (spell)... smooth, low noise, and i think they were just at 500 .......... just getting to 170k on the truck. trying to drive it more, but i believe will need a heater core next... I ain't doin it myself.............

yeah... that was one of those side track things.... they should not be related.... However I think Eagle has probably hit the source...especially when tying in the headlight symptom.... had that option on an 1990 XJ Laredo, but my Pioneer MJ does not have that option... and agree, unplug and see if issue repeats

is you emission light timer still attached... unplugged mine many moon ago... there's a mechanism above the throttle pedal that has gear in it... other than that, I got nuthin...

Thumbs UP... have this on a flash drive I play in my 15 JGC... along with hours of other songs......... sort of eclectic mix !!! now IF i had a thunderous sound system, would be 'fun' to watch reactions when Playing the first part of that track, if you've heard it you will understand but I am restricted to am/fm in my 89 .... with blown speakers and all.......

sort of a captain obvious here... you are checking the CPS on the sensor side of the plug and not the wiring harness side??? no flames please

personally do not see the need for spacers, and as mentioned the change can make for different forces on the wheel bearings and ball joints. Mine's pretty much dead stock it has had 3 sets of wheels, original stock steel, aftermarket aluminum with holes, Mopar counter 'star' wheels, and now i think called canyon spokes. the aftermarket aluminum had less backspacing, were on the truck when i bought it with 235 BFG KO ( back in the 1990's and steel were sent with the truck, the mopar counter wheels had deep backspacing and i had 30 x 9.5 GSA goodyears, the canyon have equal deep backspacing and back again to 235 Falken Rubitrek. only rubbing issue was to the rear E brake cables, zip tied helped. i posted somewhere about the mopar wheel experience and having to drill the screw for the decorative cover over the lugs.. no pics, sorry. device not handy with images of those wheels, don't take a lot of pics of truck with the crappy no clear coat grey paint.

yes, the tcu is on a bracket with threaded studs on the lower dash panel, to the right of center. the lower dash panel is plastic, but has a sheet metal 'liner' also.

swap left and middle relay and see if pump runs... On the right is the start relay... beside the threaded stud is a single blade connector this is part of the fuel pump circuit, it energizes the pump during start sequence you can pull that connector ( it will be female) then jump that female connector to the + battery terminal with a jumper wire fuel pump should run. on driver's side fender beside air box it the ballast resistor.. make a jumper between the two terminals to see if pump will run. if it does, then replace resistor do one thing at a time though...

yeah, 15', 5 on 4.5" bolt circle. and agree post image of what you have... probably steel standard wheel with small slots and a center cap.

maybe a misinterpretation on my part.... and confusion of part and full time... 'full time' would be all surfaces, part time not for use at all times... but how would the 'open' differential get a 48/52 bias ? my 89 believe has a 231 anyway... an 87 cherokee my sister has (now parked) had the 242 IIRC my 94 GC had the 249.... with that dang viscous coupling

Novak's site i think phrases it differently.... the x case is 'locked' in full time, and full time low https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transfer-cases/np242.html

there is a vacuum line on the passenger fender, at one spot will have a 'tee' for cruise control.... and it supplies vacuum to the hvac box it follows the fender behind the battery down to the canister on the bumper. Question........ when you have your heat or even A/c operating, and you hit a hill or accelerate, does the air output 'switch' on its own to the defrost ducts on the windshield? If it does, that is a sign of weak vacuum/ cracked canister, or a hole in the hose... Otherwise I'd think you would have enough vacuum supply for the shift device and associated parts... On the intake manifold there's probably at least 3 sources of vacuum... as seen above.. supplying the fuel pressure regulator and in combination supplying the EGR supplying the rear CCV fitting on the valve cover that rearmost fitting is probably the source for the rest of the vacuum systems.... on the other schematic, there's the switch on transfer case... should be a vacuum supply to it, as that switch re-directs vacuum based on shift position....

^^^ and that is where the 'football' under the front bumper 'kicks' in with vacuum supply.... if low vacuum your hvac would divert to the defrost ducts noted also there is an 'adjustment' on the control box (multiple), "A" is the centering adjustment "B" is low speed adjustment "C" is sensitivity (located on opposite side of box from A and B one of those should help I'd think.... suggested to make fine incremental adjustments

looks like some troubleshooting procedures in that scan above... but seem to be cut off......... can the full pages be scanned?

not seeing anything in the wiring diagram, though there is an input from the speed sensor... nothing in the electrical book trouble shooting either. is there not a 'minimum' speed for engagement, like 35mph?

logic would be to 1. test the bulb 2. test the power to the bulb with 4wd engaged wiring indicates a vacuum operated switch sends the signal... possibly on the transfer case, though I cannot determine its location makes a difference in connector number ... automatic versus manual transmission.

on my 89 with 4x4, i went from a goodyear wrangler GSA 30 x 9.5 x 15 to a 235/75-15 Falken Rubitrek at least 35 in the front, but with no load down to 30 in the back. the gooeyyears had simply aged out (they were new takeoffs from a wrangler... they only had 20k miles on them, but showed dry rot and cupping........ speeds over 60 were shake city.......... so far... the Rubitrek have been great......... smooth... and i can 75+ it now if needed....... heck I have been driving it more, with increasing distances........ so far bout 45mile one way..... helps when oil leaks are mitigated (reduced) and stuff is 'working'

go back and review what was posted above. there's a lot of explanation there.... here's another link so you don't have to scroll.

in addition to above... a/c condensate drain clogged heater core leakage