AnotherOldJeepGuy

Hear are a couple things I have done as a result of suggestions here over time. 1. Check that all your intake/exhaust bolts are tight. I was able to spray water on the engine while running where these manifolds connect to the engine and heard a noticeable RPM drop. After tightening these bolts a repeat of the water test no longer affected REMs. These loose bolts are apparently not uncommon and can cause vacuum leaks as well as incorrect oxygen readings. 2. I found a failing exhaust gasket (the "donut) at where the exhaust manifold connects to the next pipe by putting the output port of my shop vac into the tailpipe and spraying soapy water at various locations along the exhaust manifold looking for leaks. This gasket is very close to the exhaust oxygen sensor and can also effect oxygen readings.

Good luck! Post how it turns out with pics! I'm curious if your elbow part is as tight as what I just got at the brass fitting, can just barely get it on there (meaning it is so tight I am a bit concerned how long is will last without splitting). Haven't tried it at the MAF end yet.

I'll take a look. What about these kits, any good?

I took a wag at an Amazon search, found a whole bunch of different things. If you feel like looking up a link for what it is you are recommending, that would be awesome.

I guess I'll see if I can draw it out, see what that reveals if anything. I sure seem to remember that in the past I didn't see any flow into the bottle until the engine had warmed up, but I have slept since that observation was (or was not) memorized so who knows. As for the heater core, my heater hasn't really worked for 10-20 years! But living in Texas that generally isn't much of a problem since we have very few days where a heater is a necessity.

Wasn't aware of the post, took a peak. The level I have right now is pretty close, it's maybe 1/16" to 1/8" inch down so easy to top off and I'll start a new baseline. Yeah my terminology is very often off a bit. Pressure bottle sound good to me. I've also see "Expansion Tank" and Dorman just calls it a "Coolant Reservoir". But whatever name tag it's wearing, still wondering about the flow question.

This seems like the right post to tack on to. I am noticing the same thing. I am starting some data collection, set a baseline a the midpoint between MIN-MAX on the overflow bottle. This was set in the morning after setting over night, ambient temperature around 90. Jeep is not overheating. Drove around yesterday with AC on MAX, outside temp in the mid 90s. Worth noting, about 3 weeks ago when I was working on my lengthy issue (MayDay!! - Hard Accel Killed Idle), one time and one time only when I started I notice a spurt of liquid from somewhere. I never was able to recreate this and I cannot find any leak. I've started many times since then. I had recently tried spraying the engine with water testing for vacuum leaks and the only guess I have it it was because of that. I have little confidence in this guess but with nothing else to go on, it's all I got. I have a first question also. I noticed that coolant is flowing at what appears to be a full rate into the overflow tank immediately at start from cold and AFAIK it never stops. I don't really know what causes this to flow or not flow, and the only thing I know of that regulates coolant flow is the thermostat. I put a new one in maybe 6 months ago when I put in a new water pump. What controls when coolant flows into the overflow tank and should it be flowing at cold start?

Got the elbow and the brass fitting, hose didn't make it in. Just noting that pressing the elbow on to the brass fitting takes a low of elbow grease. I haven't tried that connecting at the MAF yet, I hope it's a little less tight. Might be time for a bit of vasoline.

Never did hear back from the email i sent to support on July 4th, did you get a reply of any kind?

Just FYI since my 1990 is automatic rather than manual (which may or may not matter here) but my ACC position stopped working when a shop replaced the ignition switch about 10 years ago. Unfortunately by the time I noticed it (I don't use ACC position much) it was too long a delay from the repair to take it back for rework, at least not on their dime. The ACC position worked before that. My suspicion is they installed the wrong switch.

Yeah I have gotten caught by that dual shipping before, but in this case that's not happening.

Getting ready to order new motor and transmission mounts. Looked up OEM numbers here in the parts list links and found the ones at Rock Auto that reference the same numbers are DEA / MARMON RIDE CONTROL A2625 (OEM 5200 2334) for Transmission, and DEA / MARMON RIDE CONTROL A2572 (OEM 5201 9201). The interesting math is, if you purchase the 3 parts individually, the cost is $40.41, but if you purchase the "Kit", which includes the exact same 3 parts, that goes for $42.79. Pretty Sneaky Mr. Rock Auto!

My wipers have all but stopped working. On high they will manage to slowly get across, but that's all. They have been showing signs of failure for quite a while now. I have a new stalk switch from about a year ago because my old one self destructed. I expect it's time to replace the wiper motor. I have looked over the posts here and it looks like WAI GLOBAL WPM447 motor has been used here, and also bushings out of the DORMAN 49447 Kit have been replaced in the assemble, so that's my plan unless someone speaks up that I should do something else. I am referencing these posts: https://comancheclub.com/topic/18239-mjxj-wiper-bushing-install/?hl=wiper https://comancheclub.com/topic/70869-upgrade-your-windshield-wipers-for-good-2001-xj-wiper-motor-swap/page/4/#comments https://comancheclub.com/topic/57353-comprehensive-wiper-modification-upgrade-maintenance/ I'll try not to duplicate the good info already posted, I'll just note anything different I happen to learn here

Just ordered mine with those numbers....

Sometimes I think it's all too complicated to me . But since it's running pretty well I'll go with yep . I've added the "final" REM data points to the earlier ones in the attached file. As best I can tell not too much really changed, but I did notice what looks like might be notable changes in EGR, IAC, ST and LT. But I don't really know how to judge if the final numbers really say anything is better as far as readings go, but I captured them in GREEN throughout the attached file. REM Gauge Readouts Engine 0705.pdf

OK a bit more confusion for the group to explain. To set the stage, roughly a week ago (6/28), the status was there was no stalling if I disabled the EGR valve by disconnecting the control vacuum hose and capped it off. With the hose connected I would see the EGR move at a 3%-5% throttle and the engine would either stall or come close. The thought was an ECU learning cycle was maybe needed. So I connected the hose back to re-enable the EGR, and coaxed the jeep through the 3%-5% zone for somewhere in the vicinity of 15 or so miles, and "magically" the issue faded and they went away and has been gone since. Note that EGR "open" that I was observing was a EGR plunger/rod movement of around 1/4 inch which lead to the stall situation. Now for the confusion, or at least the question. My assumption was that the educated ECU was "doing something" to allow the engine to run correctly with the EGR opening the observed 1/4" at the 3%-5% throttle. But perhaps the education is not that straight forward. Today as mentioned earlier I decided to capture a "final" collection of REM data. I got to the EGR Gas Recirculation reading. I have previously captured this reading was "OFF" at idle, and "ON" with throttle (the 1/4" rod movement). Today I saw the same thing at idle, no movement. Then I moved the throttle 3%-5% expecting to again see the 1/4" rod movement, but now with no stall because of the ECU being educated. But what I saw instead was no EGR movement. So, no surprise it is not stalling, the rod movement that caused the stalling, isn't there. But previous input here on the forum was that the EGR is expected to move on throttle. So my confusion is, is the EGR operation now correct (that is, it appropriately isn't moving at 3%-5% throttle), and is what the ECU "learned" was to not move the EGR (or more correctly stated to disable the EGR movement) at this point? OR INSTEAD, am I just lucky it isn't moving at the moment, with the concern being it will start to move again and I am back to stalling as soon as my luck changes? A final piece of related data, if I crank the throttle further I can get the EGR rod to move, but instead of the 1/4" movement I used to see at 3%-5% throttle, I now see about a 1/16" movement. I realize answering this question might take a lot more writing than the amount I put in here trying to clearly ask the question. Perhaps a shorter more direct approach is to ask, how much is the EGR supposed to move and when, and is this a constant or a variable distance?

Been over a week now and with crossed fingers knocking on wood, Jeep has not stalled after the relearning exercise documented in the last couple pages here. including no more 3%-5% throttle stutter. ACCEL seems smooth. Been up to 65 a couple times without anything feeling unusual. The only thing noticeable, to me anyway, is the idle in park, with brake on after DECEL to and waiting at a red light (AC on), is just a tiny bit less smooth that if I put it in park and/or turn off AC. But this is very minor and as i noted earlier, I may just be a little hyper-sensitive right now. I am tempted to install a new IAC just to see what happens, but I am not sure the $30 experiment is really worth doing, so still on the fence. What I am planning to do today is to let it warm up from a cold start for a few minutes then capture a new full set of REM readings to see if anything has noticeably changed, and to capture a baseline just in case I need it in the future, then send back my loaner REM! It's worth noting that my brakes are now working normally. I can only assume that the reason they were not working (the assist that is) was that the vacuum was just too low during the times that the RPMs were very low. I am not crazy with that explanation, but it's all I got. Also worth noting cruise didn't start working with my vacuum improvements, oh well, I wasn't really expecting that. If I get motivated enough to tackle that I will start a new conversation, this one needs to wind down!

Me too

Nice

Well I gave it a try. Every time I attempt to log it is say to try later because the app is too popular and the limit was reached. I wonder if that is secret code for they ran out of badges so they won't let anyone log in until tomorrow? Anyone else trying to log in and running into the same brick wall?

Me too! Especially if Oct 25 happened to make it (shameless self promo I know...)

Yikes! With my computer glasses on high I can just barely make out those letters! But good enough to squelch my curiosity.

Three more days with successful trips, so far so good. Can't really guess well how may key starts since I put the EGR hose back in place, probably not 40 yet, but maybe half? So another question to toss in the thread while the "Test it to 40" plan is in play. What is the second connection used for that's to the right of where the REM connects?

Ah OK. With all the good folks and communication on CC, I don't know that I will download an app to get more connections, or get a badge, but I might . Looks like the app would be nice for folks that go on trails though.