AnotherOldJeepGuy

Just FYI since my 1990 is automatic rather than manual (which may or may not matter here) but my ACC position stopped working when a shop replaced the ignition switch about 10 years ago. Unfortunately by the time I noticed it (I don't use ACC position much) it was too long a delay from the repair to take it back for rework, at least not on their dime. The ACC position worked before that. My suspicion is they installed the wrong switch.

Yeah I have gotten caught by that dual shipping before, but in this case that's not happening.

Getting ready to order new motor and transmission mounts. Looked up OEM numbers here in the parts list links and found the ones at Rock Auto that reference the same numbers are DEA / MARMON RIDE CONTROL A2625 (OEM 5200 2334) for Transmission, and DEA / MARMON RIDE CONTROL A2572 (OEM 5201 9201). The interesting math is, if you purchase the 3 parts individually, the cost is $40.41, but if you purchase the "Kit", which includes the exact same 3 parts, that goes for $42.79. Pretty Sneaky Mr. Rock Auto!

My wipers have all but stopped working. On high they will manage to slowly get across, but that's all. They have been showing signs of failure for quite a while now. I have a new stalk switch from about a year ago because my old one self destructed. I expect it's time to replace the wiper motor. I have looked over the posts here and it looks like WAI GLOBAL WPM447 motor has been used here, and also bushings out of the DORMAN 49447 Kit have been replaced in the assemble, so that's my plan unless someone speaks up that I should do something else. I am referencing these posts: https://comancheclub.com/topic/18239-mjxj-wiper-bushing-install/?hl=wiper https://comancheclub.com/topic/70869-upgrade-your-windshield-wipers-for-good-2001-xj-wiper-motor-swap/page/4/#comments https://comancheclub.com/topic/57353-comprehensive-wiper-modification-upgrade-maintenance/ I'll try not to duplicate the good info already posted, I'll just note anything different I happen to learn here

Just ordered mine with those numbers....

Sometimes I think it's all too complicated to me . But since it's running pretty well I'll go with yep . I've added the "final" REM data points to the earlier ones in the attached file. As best I can tell not too much really changed, but I did notice what looks like might be notable changes in EGR, IAC, ST and LT. But I don't really know how to judge if the final numbers really say anything is better as far as readings go, but I captured them in GREEN throughout the attached file. REM Gauge Readouts Engine 0705.pdf

OK a bit more confusion for the group to explain. To set the stage, roughly a week ago (6/28), the status was there was no stalling if I disabled the EGR valve by disconnecting the control vacuum hose and capped it off. With the hose connected I would see the EGR move at a 3%-5% throttle and the engine would either stall or come close. The thought was an ECU learning cycle was maybe needed. So I connected the hose back to re-enable the EGR, and coaxed the jeep through the 3%-5% zone for somewhere in the vicinity of 15 or so miles, and "magically" the issue faded and they went away and has been gone since. Note that EGR "open" that I was observing was a EGR plunger/rod movement of around 1/4 inch which lead to the stall situation. Now for the confusion, or at least the question. My assumption was that the educated ECU was "doing something" to allow the engine to run correctly with the EGR opening the observed 1/4" at the 3%-5% throttle. But perhaps the education is not that straight forward. Today as mentioned earlier I decided to capture a "final" collection of REM data. I got to the EGR Gas Recirculation reading. I have previously captured this reading was "OFF" at idle, and "ON" with throttle (the 1/4" rod movement). Today I saw the same thing at idle, no movement. Then I moved the throttle 3%-5% expecting to again see the 1/4" rod movement, but now with no stall because of the ECU being educated. But what I saw instead was no EGR movement. So, no surprise it is not stalling, the rod movement that caused the stalling, isn't there. But previous input here on the forum was that the EGR is expected to move on throttle. So my confusion is, is the EGR operation now correct (that is, it appropriately isn't moving at 3%-5% throttle), and is what the ECU "learned" was to not move the EGR (or more correctly stated to disable the EGR movement) at this point? OR INSTEAD, am I just lucky it isn't moving at the moment, with the concern being it will start to move again and I am back to stalling as soon as my luck changes? A final piece of related data, if I crank the throttle further I can get the EGR rod to move, but instead of the 1/4" movement I used to see at 3%-5% throttle, I now see about a 1/16" movement. I realize answering this question might take a lot more writing than the amount I put in here trying to clearly ask the question. Perhaps a shorter more direct approach is to ask, how much is the EGR supposed to move and when, and is this a constant or a variable distance?

Been over a week now and with crossed fingers knocking on wood, Jeep has not stalled after the relearning exercise documented in the last couple pages here. including no more 3%-5% throttle stutter. ACCEL seems smooth. Been up to 65 a couple times without anything feeling unusual. The only thing noticeable, to me anyway, is the idle in park, with brake on after DECEL to and waiting at a red light (AC on), is just a tiny bit less smooth that if I put it in park and/or turn off AC. But this is very minor and as i noted earlier, I may just be a little hyper-sensitive right now. I am tempted to install a new IAC just to see what happens, but I am not sure the $30 experiment is really worth doing, so still on the fence. What I am planning to do today is to let it warm up from a cold start for a few minutes then capture a new full set of REM readings to see if anything has noticeably changed, and to capture a baseline just in case I need it in the future, then send back my loaner REM! It's worth noting that my brakes are now working normally. I can only assume that the reason they were not working (the assist that is) was that the vacuum was just too low during the times that the RPMs were very low. I am not crazy with that explanation, but it's all I got. Also worth noting cruise didn't start working with my vacuum improvements, oh well, I wasn't really expecting that. If I get motivated enough to tackle that I will start a new conversation, this one needs to wind down!

Me too

Nice

Well I gave it a try. Every time I attempt to log it is say to try later because the app is too popular and the limit was reached. I wonder if that is secret code for they ran out of badges so they won't let anyone log in until tomorrow? Anyone else trying to log in and running into the same brick wall?

Me too! Especially if Oct 25 happened to make it (shameless self promo I know...)

Yikes! With my computer glasses on high I can just barely make out those letters! But good enough to squelch my curiosity.

Three more days with successful trips, so far so good. Can't really guess well how may key starts since I put the EGR hose back in place, probably not 40 yet, but maybe half? So another question to toss in the thread while the "Test it to 40" plan is in play. What is the second connection used for that's to the right of where the REM connects?

Ah OK. With all the good folks and communication on CC, I don't know that I will download an app to get more connections, or get a badge, but I might . Looks like the app would be nice for folks that go on trails though.

What is the url?

I'd recommend Crutchfield as a good source for the cheap Bluetooth stereo if you go that way. I have used them for a long time. They include the mating harness with the purchase for no extra charge as well as a molding kit (even though a molding kit isn't needed.)

Just finished test drive #2, about 30mi round trip. Followed the reset procedure a couple times. The 3%-5% throttle stumble did not happen. No stalling when I come to a stop. Jumped on highway the last 10 or so and ran along a 65 for a few miles, didn't push it over that, I don't normally anyway. All went well so I am cautiously optimistic now that maybe things are back to normal, knocking consistently and strongly on wood here. At a stop light in Drive, Brakes on with AC on the idle may be a little less that completely smooth but not much. And at this point I may be a bit hyper-sensitive and maybe it's really no different that it was before. New mounts are on the to do list anyway since all of mine are still original and I'm sure that will smooth things out some also It would not be a stretch to think that the maneuver incident that started all this took a toll on the mounts also. Anyway a final relearn seems to have been the last step maybe. Don't know what was actually learned, but as long as what was needed to be learned was learned, I'll take it.

Took a 13 mile run around the area, no highway driving so lots of start stop. I guess it was a K-12 education. Kindergarten through Grade School was pretty rough. Couple stalls, a few more coaxing to not stall, questionable acceleration. Junior High was also troublesome but maybe a bit better, transitional years I suppose. But by the time I progressed through High School things did seem to be improving, and by graduation I was able to come to a stop and start up again without it wanting to stall. So fingers crossed. I'm gonna head out for a higher education run in a bit and see how that goes, perhaps I might even get on the local highway if we make it to Grad School.

So I don't have that, but I have essentially replaced that in this instance with a flashlight and vision by watching the EGR ROD, and seeing that there is a 1:1 correlation between the 3%-5%throttle stutter and the moment the rod moves.

Just in case, I looked out there for availability of a new EGR valve. Didn't find it at Auto Zone, O'Reilly, Napa, Rock Auto, Summit, Advance or EBay. (Although everyone seems to have the gasket).

OK I'll try leaving the EGR valve hose connected for a bit and cross my fingers an ECU education is what is needed at this point. Just for clarity, the problem is at 3%-5% throttle, no problem at idle (0% Throttle). In my words, EGR "activated" means the EGR valve shaft/rod is no longer at rest and has moved outward from the engine. I do have terminology issues sometimes with my limited STMD

No idea where I can get a test known good ECU. If I leave EGR connected I have to deal with stalling at 3%-5% or at least trying to, did you mean to say leave EGR disconnected? No stalling with EGR disconnected.

OK here's that data! Some of the number do move around which seems appropriate, so best I can do it try to capture the range. First, back on June 8 those reading were: 6.9ms, ST 135-154, LT Locked in at 128 - These captured at idle. Things that have been changed since then are: - clean grounds at the oil dipstick brace mounting bolt - reset ECU (disconnected battery) a few times - executed ECU relearn procedure - drove 15-20 miles with EGR disabled - cleaned all the injector harness connectors and injector electrical contacts - replaced low resistance arc-ing spark plug wires with OEM resistance wires that are not arc-ing (it was not a goal to get higher resistance wires, just a goal to confirm different wires would not arc) - checked distributor indexing - replaced crumbling/leaking exhaust manifold to pipe "donut" gasket. - verified TPS linear output throughout throttle (with REM readout) - re-cleaned IAC although it did not look dirty. Today, with EGR control hose still capped of, so, no EGR activation: At Idle, 7.3ms, ST 128, LT 130 (This was right after first start up of the day so engine cool) At Idle, 5.4ms-6.3ms, ST 120-145, LT 130 (This was after idling for 3-4 minutes) At 3%-5% Throttle, all of these stayed essentially the same. Today again, but with EGR control hose reconnected and EGR activation At Idle all the numbers essentially the same (no difference in how the engine sounds) At 3%-5% Throttle and with RPMs dropped due to EGR activation: PW stayed essentially the same and LT remained 130 ST dropped with RPM drop. I did not let it stall only let RPMs fall noticeably, ST was as low as upper 90s My STMD (Shade Tree Mechanic Degree) doesn't give me the knowledge to know if any of that says anything useful. But I have to wonder, if the ST went up instead of down as I hit 3%-5% throttle and the RPMs began to fall, would that be good or bad? I also have to wonder why the PW didn't move right along with the ST numbers when the EGR caused the RPMs to drop, seems l like the ECU, if it understood the RPMs were falling, might adjust that too? I have just enough knowledge to be dangerous, but not enough to know what to do with said knowledge