AnotherOldJeepGuy

There are actual bulbs in the fixture, perhaps they have burnt out?

I went over a took a look and it turns out these were not metal, and it just looks like pieces of RTV from removing the pan. So doesn't look like there's a problem here! Glad it wasn't metal pieces afterall!

My son pulled his oil pan to put in a new gasket, and maybe a new pan cause the drain plug location is a little messed up / bent, and he sent me the pic below. He said he doesn't really see where the chips in the pan came from. The car is running well just has an oil leak. Any thoughts on where these might have come from? I'm going to ask him to double check they are really metal with a magnet, cause just from the pic it looks like it could possibly be pieces of the old gasket to me, but all I have to go by is the pic. Any thoughts?

Look closely at the contacts for the solenoid on the control board, I believe that was my issue...

If I were in your sitch I guess I'd swap the headlight bulbs just to rule out it isn't just a bad bulb. And of course check the voltage with DMM at the bulb connector.

I got an email from the Jeep folks that says they are planning to honor "all eligible badge requests". They didn't go into detail how they define an eligible badge request. But the potential is still out there.

I have bench.

I am the original owner of my particular 90 and I can vouch that these have never been touched since the day I drove it off the lot. Judging from this conversation, it would appear there are at least 2 different OEM nuts for this use .

Got the PCB cleaned up and put it back in for a test, all wiper operations are good! The vinegar was very foggy so it did pull off some crud. The large cap that @The86manche noted before actually looks fine (no deformity) once viewed with better focus looking at that cap. I think the most likely future failure may be the solenoid spring. I may take a look at the HW store to see if they have any springs that look the same, but swapping it would be risky cause the same "looking" spring may not have the same tension and I am not sure I could get the old one off and back on still in tack if needed. I'll soak it with a drop or 2 of oil before final reassembly and hope for the best! The old formed foam was dried up and crumbling so I threw it out and did not attempt to replace it. Not sure it was useful anyway.

Gotcha, thanks! I will let the vinegar clean probably for 24 hours, don't really know it needs that long but that's how long I soaked my blower control, then let it dry real good and then see what happens.

Opened up the module to take a look. You get in by drilling out four rivets that holed it together. The coil switch contacts are very ugly, and there's ugly elsewhere, but I don't see any opens or stressed components with visual inspection. (Some of what looks ugly is really because the component side had a formed block of foam covering everything and small bits of that foam remained stuck to components when I remove it.) I couldn't really get zoomed in clear focus to get a good view of the contacts to post, but they did look like they needed cleaned pretty badly. I got my ac blower speed control contacts working on my car before by soaking the assembly in vinegar so I'm going to try cleaning up this assembly the same way and see what happens. I may re-flow the solder joints as well, some are less shiny that others, although I can't see any are visually not connected.

Great! I plan on taking a look just to see if I can find a visible fault I can just solder or jumper, probably over the weekend. If that doesn't work I would be glad to send mine your way for core or repair. Stay tuned!

@The86manche, do you still have any working to sell, or are you willing to repair mine? I just pulled mine and restored non-intermittent functions, so it would appear mine is bad. I might attempt to look for a visible cracked solder or trace I can reconnect, but I don't have replacement parts....

I read on another post that you can bypass the intermittent control module by just plugging the two connectors together, so I did. I now have LOW and HIGH speeds at their respective control positions and WIPER PARK works. I assume this means the intermittent control module is bad. Seems like that post I read about bypassing it also talked about repairing it, or not, don't remember for sure. Otherwise I'll check here in the for sale area for one.

Here's a bit more detail in case it tells something: Switch Position Action OFF No Wiper Movement - Doesn't PARK, it just stops when you switch OFF DELAY Either continuous Wiper Movement in LOW speed - OR - No Wiper Movement (If Wiper Movement when switched to DELAY then Wiper Movement continuous at same rate regardless of Time Position) LOW No Wiper Movement HIGH Wiper runs faster than what it runs on DELAY if it runs on DELAY

I accidentally intertwined this thread with the one I started to document what it took to fix mine, I am going to try to get things back in that thread now so if you have a follow up, please put it there..

So now I have a brand new motor installed and new bushings, and sadly for me, I am 100% sure I got it hooked up correctly because it FAILS in the exact same way. I only get wiper motion when the switch is on high ( So what @Pete M said back on the 16th should have been where I went). I think I can say it's not the motor (odds that a new one fails in the exact same way is pretty small). So now what? I did look at wires at the motor, they look completely fine.

Well I kinds got off on the wrong thread, but I'll try to pull in back into this one. I asked in thread Upgrade your windshield wipers for GOOD! 2001 XJ wiper motor swap asking for wiring connections for installing the WPM447. @Gojira94 replied with that info! I'll copy it here since it was my intent to document this from start to finish in this thread, so that info was: Looking at the back of the new connector on the new motor, where the wires from the motor go into the connector, if these are the colors: ___________ | X 2 3 | |_4__5__6__| Then: New motor/function/old connector color: X (no pin/ no wire) 2 White - Park - goes to Gray wire of old connector 3 Red - Switched 12V - goes to Blue wire of old connector 4 Yellow - High - goes to Red Wire of old connector 5 Green - Low - goes to White wire of old connector 6 Black - Ground - goes to Black wire of old connector I had also captured some pics so I'll link them here again to get things back where they were supposed to be,,,, Now I'll continue here

I believe it matches! I just pictured and marked up the old one below from the MJ Electrical Manual and was about to start guessing, awesome that I don't need to guess! Thanks.

@Salvagedcircuit, Any chance you snapped a picture of the new motor with the old plug installed? Or if not saved the wire mapping from old to new wire colors?

I'll go with a Fel-Pro! Got it! Rock Auto sells a Steel T-housing by Motorad (CH4802) and an Aluminum from FourSeasons (84802). Any benefit to one over the other? Is the original steel or aluminum? I didn't really take notice with I had it off last time. EDIT: Duh, all you need is a magnet to answer that last one, it appears what is there now is aluminum because my magnet doesn't stick! So I'll order the aluminum replacement.

So since I am going to put in a new tstat housing anyway, and as I look at Rock Auto for parts, I am wondering what the experts say about a few things. Thermostat: 1. 180 or 195 Degree Thermostat? The Rock Auto comments suggest 180 might be better for older/classic vehicles. 2. "High Flow" Thermostat? The Rock Auto comments suggests "a reduction in engine warm up times, allows trapped air in the cooling system to escape, and stabilizes the pressure of the cooling system overall". 3. "Fail-Safe" Thermostat? These have a lock-open feature in an overheat situation. I see less useful here, if I get an overheat I'm not planning to keep driving so other than an emergency that would demand it, I don't know that I am interested in this. I also note that I don't see both "Fail-Safe" and "High Flow", so if High Flow is a good thing, that's another reason I would not use the Fail-Safe one. Gasket: 4. On gasket, when I replaced my valve cover gasket it was Fel-Pro. The instructions specifically noted to not use sealant so I didn't and it is sealing fine. I tried to find the instructions that would come with the Fel-Pro thermostat housing gasket to see if they said the same thing but did not find that. I did ask my ai buddy and it said to install it dry unless there were lots of pits or imperfections. So, does the community agree with this, that is, if I get the Fel-Pro thermostat housing gasket, does it work without sealant?

I see one end at least in that posting. Not clear [to me at least] if that is the one Pentti was looking for, or the other end.

If you have the need to make it visible again, might go ahead and post that allusive pic for future reference.

I've watched while the temp came up from cold to around 190 and haven't been able to see it. But since the dye is showing, and that's the best clue I have, I'll work on what I can find and see what happens. When I have the thermostat housing off a few months back that housing wasn't in very good shape, and a new one isn't expensive so I guess I'll replace it and see what happens.