AnotherOldJeepGuy

I recently had issues that I apparently fixed, but I had to give it about 25 miles running bad for the computer to realized it was fixed. If this started with the new IAC, or you just replaced the IAC attempting to fix it, there's a change you just need to school the ECU. The difference for me was night/day before and after the 25 miles of training. Also a common suggestion here is to make sure all your exhaust/intake bolts are tight, because they do tent to work loose. I know for a fact I improved things by finding a few a little loose and snugging them up.

Turns out I have quite a lot of specs that light up, and I expect a lot of them are not really something that can be cleaned away. But what I was able to determine was that the only glow that matched the expected glow was a small area at the thermostat housing. I was able to match this to the expected color by swabbing the inside of the dye bottle with a q-tip and comparing any glow I could find to the glow on the q-tip. This area at the housing is not an active leak, I can't see it leak. That housing was pretty ruff when I replaced the gasket a few months back when I put in a new water pump, and it did have to do it more than once to get (I though) installed with no leaks. This leak appears to be so small that I don't have a lot of confidence it is my only coolant loss, so the additional chemical analysis suggested will most likely still be done, but I'll try to eliminate this known leak first and see what happens. (note it's all wet because of some cleaning)

OK got my additive and flashlight, added the dye in today. I made one mistake I'll note here for the benefit of anyone referencing, I neglected to snoop around with the flashlight before putting in the dye. Why does that matter? It matters because the black-light flashlight doesn't only work on the dye! I can walk around my house and garage nowhere near my Jeep, and see things that will light up. So, while I do see some specs here and there in my engine compartment, I really don't know they were not already there. So for future reference, if you are doing this look around before you put the dye in and make note of any thing that already lights up! If you see anything, if you can, clean it off so that it doesn't shine, then later if you see a shine you will be sure it came from the dye! For me, this just means I need to clean up any specs I see, and drive around again. I learn something new every day on this "keep my Jeep running" journey!

I am not disputing any difficulty noted, being more difficult that it looks is very common, but it looks like a pretty straight shot from the cap to the tank...

Don't see why not. I know I have siphoned some before just never tried to drain the tank. Might be difficult to get 100% out cause making the hose be at the absolute lowest spot might be difficult, but seems like you could get most of it.

Look well done!

Well apparently this can only be used on "orange" coolants: But it appears this one can be used with the "green" coolant I have. I'll start with this diagnostic and see if I can find a visible leak.

Right. I am collecting my comparisons first thing in the morning after engine has set overnight.

I am planning to get some kind of dye to attempt to confirm there is or is not any visible leak.

I thought I knew what a compression test was, a tool (that I don't have) that is inserted in to each spark plug hole to measure pressure? But first I ever heard of there being a wet and a dry version. So perhaps I know even less than I thought I did. Never heard of a "leak down" test.

Is this something like what you are referring to? https://www.amazon.com/K-Seal-ST3501-Permanent-Gasket-Repair/dp/B00QYZIVA6/ref=pd_bxgy_thbs_d_sccl_2/143-8891960-5551068?pd_rd_w=hUGRC&content-id=amzn1.sym.9bef5913-5870-4504-8883-3ba89d7f8e39&pf_rd_p=9bef5913-5870-4504-8883-3ba89d7f8e39&pf_rd_r=NSR08A2EZ2XP0FB1457E&pd_rd_wg=g9m2v&pd_rd_r=1b1904b5-2886-4ccf-add6-ad927b46cdd2&pd_rd_i=B00QYZIVA6&psc=1 I generally think if it's too good to be true it probably isn't, but on the other hand, mostly good reviews, so hmm..

Interesting.

Well, the replacement motor got here earlier today. If I can get to this wiring without removing the wiper assembly and it works I might return it. But if I have to take it all apart, I'll probably just put in the new motor and be good for another 36 years. We'll see

Data point 1. I'll keep collecting for a bit, but this data point is not real encouraging..

Hear are a couple things I have done as a result of suggestions here over time. 1. Check that all your intake/exhaust bolts are tight. I was able to spray water on the engine while running where these manifolds connect to the engine and heard a noticeable RPM drop. After tightening these bolts a repeat of the water test no longer affected REMs. These loose bolts are apparently not uncommon and can cause vacuum leaks as well as incorrect oxygen readings. 2. I found a failing exhaust gasket (the "donut) at where the exhaust manifold connects to the next pipe by putting the output port of my shop vac into the tailpipe and spraying soapy water at various locations along the exhaust manifold looking for leaks. This gasket is very close to the exhaust oxygen sensor and can also effect oxygen readings.

Good luck! Post how it turns out with pics! I'm curious if your elbow part is as tight as what I just got at the brass fitting, can just barely get it on there (meaning it is so tight I am a bit concerned how long is will last without splitting). Haven't tried it at the MAF end yet.

I'll take a look. What about these kits, any good?

I took a wag at an Amazon search, found a whole bunch of different things. If you feel like looking up a link for what it is you are recommending, that would be awesome.

I guess I'll see if I can draw it out, see what that reveals if anything. I sure seem to remember that in the past I didn't see any flow into the bottle until the engine had warmed up, but I have slept since that observation was (or was not) memorized so who knows. As for the heater core, my heater hasn't really worked for 10-20 years! But living in Texas that generally isn't much of a problem since we have very few days where a heater is a necessity.

Wasn't aware of the post, took a peak. The level I have right now is pretty close, it's maybe 1/16" to 1/8" inch down so easy to top off and I'll start a new baseline. Yeah my terminology is very often off a bit. Pressure bottle sound good to me. I've also see "Expansion Tank" and Dorman just calls it a "Coolant Reservoir". But whatever name tag it's wearing, still wondering about the flow question.

This seems like the right post to tack on to. I am noticing the same thing. I am starting some data collection, set a baseline a the midpoint between MIN-MAX on the overflow bottle. This was set in the morning after setting over night, ambient temperature around 90. Jeep is not overheating. Drove around yesterday with AC on MAX, outside temp in the mid 90s. Worth noting, about 3 weeks ago when I was working on my lengthy issue (MayDay!! - Hard Accel Killed Idle), one time and one time only when I started I notice a spurt of liquid from somewhere. I never was able to recreate this and I cannot find any leak. I've started many times since then. I had recently tried spraying the engine with water testing for vacuum leaks and the only guess I have it it was because of that. I have little confidence in this guess but with nothing else to go on, it's all I got. I have a first question also. I noticed that coolant is flowing at what appears to be a full rate into the overflow tank immediately at start from cold and AFAIK it never stops. I don't really know what causes this to flow or not flow, and the only thing I know of that regulates coolant flow is the thermostat. I put a new one in maybe 6 months ago when I put in a new water pump. What controls when coolant flows into the overflow tank and should it be flowing at cold start?

Got the elbow and the brass fitting, hose didn't make it in. Just noting that pressing the elbow on to the brass fitting takes a low of elbow grease. I haven't tried that connecting at the MAF yet, I hope it's a little less tight. Might be time for a bit of vasoline.

Never did hear back from the email i sent to support on July 4th, did you get a reply of any kind?