AnotherOldJeepGuy

Dropped off at shop today for diagnosis by a "real mechanic" . They are going to let me know when to come back for show-n-tell, then I can decide if it's something I want to tackle....

I don't have a write up but I did the same and it works very well. IMO a benefit of this location (other than it's just cool) is its relatively close to you ear. I did it quite a long time ago but the two most important things I remember is 1) the tweeter and filter came packaged together with the speaker I put in the bottom of the door so the hookup was described in the instructions that came with the set, and 2) I use a Dremmel to cut the hold in the door handle assembly. I remember the metal was harder than I expected so the cutting was slow.

Congrats! Looks great. My favorite color too! I may follow your lead at some point since my MJ has been dead for about a month now! (But I have not given up on it yet ) Enjoy!

Standing by for pics!

Second that!

OK I got after it again today and finally found a combination of body position and tool, and got to the last two manifold bolts. All are snugged up now. The last two didn't really need much, maybe 1/4 turn. No change. Truck is still very sick. But at this point I have eventually found how to touch each of the bolts, but I'm not yet convinced I have the reach or expertise to get them all back in if I were to take them all out since 3 or 4 of them I got a wrench to, but not my hand. Actually put the back up on stands so the wheels were not touching the ground and looked underneath while it was running. Still cannot find a leak. I did check with a local shop that said, for $200, they would do a full diagnosis and tell me what is wrong. Given the amount of time I have spent and not found the problem, I am considering that plan. I'd feel a lot better about trying to pull off the manifolds if I actually know that is where the problem really is. Or it's at least possible they will find a problem that is easier to fix. At some point my Advanced Shade Tree Mechanic degree isn't enough!

Looks great. Still stock for now but you never know.

Well if you were a lot closer to Texas, and assuming the 89 fenders were interchangeable with 90, and my 90 wasn't dead right now, I'd be trying to get that right front fender from you! At least from what I can see it is a lot straighter than mine

I like the RW&B coloring to "JEEP" on the tailgate. Is that painted or an add on?

My charging voltage is something over 14, but don't remember how much. According to the internet 13.5V seems to be the low end of the expected number and below that, as you suggested, may not get you to a full charge. I suppose it could be the voltage regulator rather than the alternator, not sure how to know which other than by trial and error.

I replaced both my positive and negative cables as well. This doesn't cost much and you can be sure all the current is getting to the starter.

I have been very satisfied with my Napa 7558.

Was you exhaust still there? I'm thinking that dropping that first would probably help, and you do have to at least disconnect it anyway.

Yeah the 2 underneath ones I was able to get to from the top I did use 3/8 extensions without breaking anything, although it has been a while since I could simulate a 900 lb gorilla torque.

I don't see the wobble aspect of these just in the pic but my local HD says they are in stock so the next trip out I'll go take a look. Probably something handy to have around for more than just this job.

UH, yeah, just a little

No surprise there! Was mainly asking about the 4.0 once you get there and particularly for the lower back 2, these seem to be the worse cause both the exhaust pipe and the brake booster are in the way from the top, and unless you have really long skinny arms the are very hard to reach, for me at least

I'd be very curious to hear how you got to each bolt! From top or bottom, what tool, and so it, if you are so inclined to post that level of detail . In the mean time I am going to check ebay for a single 9/16 wobbler to see how it goes.

Never heard of a wobble socket, looks like it could be useful. Also never heard of crows feet but after looking it up I have seen these, just didn't know the name.

I took out the airbox and that helped gain access to one of the manifold bolts I could not reach before and it did tighten a bit. That leaves only one bottom bolt I can't get to from top or bottom with any leverage. From the top the only way I think I can get to it is to remove the brakes and I'm not ready to do that. I got a wrench on it from below good enough that if it is loose, it's not loose enough to tell with minimal leverage. I'm willing to bet that one bolt that is at least very snug is not it. With the airbox out I put the flashlight eveywhere I could and I cannot see anything that looks like a crack, and I didn't see any smoke. I don't have anything I can use to blow smoke from the other end. I am also watching @Porquer "Funky Idle" thread since his symptoms at least are very much like mine.

Yes I am able to edit the quote without being admin.

Is there a way to start a list on CC that can be edited by everyone? I know it could be started as a single post and then people could copy the list into a reply and modify it. That would definitely work and the current version would always be at the bottom of the post, but the post has the potential for a lot of duplication where a community editable list would be cleaner. So, esdo this feature exits?

I recently successfully share some video by putting the files on a free Google Drive account. See my post, that coincidentally is on an issue very similar to yours, here. Good Luck!

Ah OK. I understand better now, thanks for clearing that up! So it sounds like maybe I have two problems. A lack of vacuum is for sure (HVAC vent control not there at least at lower RPM, and possibly the reason the brake booster is not boosting) plus also engine stumbling. Maybe that's a clue. Maybe what I have is a blown or broken gasket since that would effect both the intake (lack of vacuum) and the exhaust (O2 sensor issue). The other common point is the block, I don't want to go there....

Thanks for all the input so far. Before I tear in to lots of disassembly, I feel like I need some education. The INTAKE manifold has multiple vacuum hose connections. It makes complete sense that the intake side, which is sucking in air, is a great source for creating a vacuum. I also understand that the INTAKE and EXHAUST manifolds share a common set of mounting bolts, and they share a common gasket, so if the bolts work loose it effects both, and therefore effects the vacuum source. I also note that in this gasket although a common gasket, each orifice is independent, i.e. the intake and exhaust pathways do not share the same air space. Opposite to the Intake Manifold, I see a total of 0 vacuum ports on the Exhaust Manifold. So since the exhaust path is independent of the intake path (let's for the moment assume the bolts are all tight and the gasket is intact) exactly how would a crack in the exhaust manifold have any effect on the vacuum??