AnotherOldJeepGuy

Thanks, I'd like it to work, but since it sounds like there's really no big penalty (other than screwing up my maint timer ) then for the few times I want the radio and not the motor, I'll just stick with the ON position.

I heard all the time with I was a youngster that leaving the key in the ON position with the engine off would burn out the points. Well I'm pretty sure nothing made from the 90s knows what points are including my Jeep. So are there any damaging effects leaving the key ON if I want to have the radio on for a bit but don't want to burn gas? (So I expect the question to answer here is why? My ACC position doesn't work. This happened about 15 years ago when a repair shop put in a new ignition switch, and unfortunately since I don't have a lot of use for the ACC position generally, it was at least 2 years before I noticed this, way too late to take it back to the shop and complain.) (So I expect the second point is why don't I try to fix the ACC position. Well, in the days when damaging the points was a thing, I had no trouble twisting around under the dash, often with my feet on the headrest, and working under the dash. The days of working, or even getting into in that position are long gone , and I assume the problem is they put in the wrong switch, or at a minimum put the right switch in, wrong and in either case the need to try to get in there seems to be insufficient to actually do it.) So the easy fix unless there is a bad thing associated with it, is to just use the ON position the few times I would use the ACC position. Is there anything bad happening doing this?

I was able to get the old braid off and with a can of break clean got it fairly clean and reinstalled. I was not able to twist the hose to any position that doesn't rub on the PS lines, which would appear to be what it is there for. It's a shame the thermal engineers didn't talk to the mechanical engineers, it would have been very easy to change the shape of the hose just a little and avoid rubbing against the PS Lines at all. Anyway, I don't see any initial leaking and ran the engine a few minutes to allow the res level to go down and let me add more coolant until the level seemed to stabilize. I did this before putting the electric fan back it just to make it easy to watch for leaks. I measured the temps at the locations shown with IR thermometer and they topped out at about 200 - 300 after maybe 8 minutes, and the temp warning gauge did not come on. So I think this was safe enough. I'll let it set overnight and check the level again, repeat the 8 minutes, then put the eFan back it. UPDATE: When running the manifold was closer to 400, the 300 was after the engine was off for a couple minutes.

My lower hose split. Got it out today. There's some braided stuff on the outside of part of it. The hose doesn't really touch much and where the braid is I don't think it touched anything. Do I even need this? Another question, since this old hose does have it, should I assume it came with the hose, and then my new hose should already have come with it. Thanks.

Nice Picture The ones I originally put in the "?" were from my first look and seeing bolts at those locations but not hole in the manifold to match. I later decided the bolts at those locations the bolt/washer just tighten on the tabs on the manifolds, just didn't bother taking out the "?".

I frequently get in a conversation at the gas station with someone who either used to "have one of those", or their dad did. And about 1 out of ever 4 asks me if I want to sell it. The age of the other person varies, probably mostly folks in their 50-60, but occasionally it's someone much younger. Doesn't seem to matter all that much that half my paint is gone, people still like it

Let's Go MOUNTAINEERS!!

NP and thanks for sharing!

Thanks Pete. I hunted around a bit and did find some how to info, but I think I won't have as good luck with this as I have with Jeep repairs! The idea of a Facebook thing came up in the early stages of the email based group, but the consensus was that Facebook privacy control was too questionable to go that way. I thing we will just stick with the email, works good enough

So my group of retired folks have a very rudimentary forum, we have a great big mailing list and essentially everyone gets everything. It does work, but something like what we have here at CC would be much nicer. Have topic driven discussions. Have the history to look. Privacy from peering eyes of at least each person's personal info. Is the person that started this forum still around to give me the basics of what it takes to start one of these?

I guess I have a pretty decent hammer..

Hmm, I guess I'll have to stop by the dealer and ask!

I think mine was a constant source of a little leak as well, but I was never really sure it was the cap's fault since because of the tank bloating, I think the brown part touched the inside of the hood. Either way, the new unbloated tank w/ new black cap has been working leak free, so I guess I'll keep it.

Yeah, I'll be holding off on this one, way too pricey for me! And I kinda like to be able to do a 2-second level check. I have already purchased the next new tank, I generally keep one of these in the garage ready for replacement.

If you locate the fuse, please post of picture to help locate it. Mine doesn't work either, I have a brand new column switch, and no LED lights. Would be nice if a fuse would fix it...

Check. Be careful with doing too much extra thinking, it will almost certainly lead to another Jeep maintenance or repair job!

I attempted to determine if the cap was hitting the hood with a propped up piece of masking tap on the cap and closing the hood. I don't think it is touching, I am pretty sure the old one did a little because of the bloated tank. I read that the Volvo cap is lower profile, but it's also closing in on $20 at this point, so my plan is to monitor for a little while and if no leaks are seen, leave it alone. If I see leaking I might go ahead and get the Volvo cap and see what happens. If I learn anything useful, I'll post it. I saw on a different forum that someone lowered the tray a little for clearance to the hood, I have wondered about this myself but have not pursued it, yet

Yeah, sometimes you just need a little backup! More than once I have asked stuff here just to help me choose to go on with a bit more confidence! And other times I just don't know what the heck I am doing . The collective knowledge on this forum, and the willingness to help, is second to none!

Awesome! Glad you got it!

I had this off when I took out my TB to clean it. I don't remember exactly how I got it back on only that it did take more than a finger pinch to snap it on, but it did snap on. On the top I think I used channel locks to squeeze it back together. I'd put a little vaseline on the connection to help it slip into place, and I think I'd also put a folded up shop towel on the plastic side to help protect it just in case. For me if I remember right (no promise here), the bottom was also tight but I could not get the vice grips down there, so I used a piece of wood on the inner side to support the joint so I wouldn't bend it, then used a small crowbar to snap it on. It didn't really need "crowbar pressure" so much, it was just that tool had a good angled shape to get what pressure was needed focused at the right place. I know I did this process for something and it seems like that something was this but I can't remember 100%, but I think it would work either way I used a a tool that looks like this to remove it. Not sure what you call it, but it is typically a used for removing automotive door panels. Oh and yes, welcome to 90's Jeep ownership!

I just swapped out my coolant reservoir. I think this might be the 4th time over the years! My question is about the cap. I adding in a picture of the old split cap, as well as pictures of the old very bloated tank and the new one. The old tank swelled up a couple years ago, I think this was a result of overheating (which was due I believe to insufficient coolant because the folks that swapped in a new radiator didn't burp it well., but I managed to get it burped and the overheating stopped). Anyway my real question is about the cap. The split open open one has an obvious pressure release, but the new cap doesn't particularly look like it does. The new tank is Dorman 603-300 purchased a few years ago when I knew I'd need it sooner or later. The last time I replaced this tank, it had the same black cap but I didn't use it, opting to reuse the one from the one before that, the one that has now split. Is this new cap also designed to let off excess pressure but just doesn't look like it? If the answer is NO, can anyone direct me to when I can get one like my old one? I do see that every Dorman 603-300 I can find online now has this same black cap. Oh, my other question is, that is the metal threaded orifice/port on the top of the tank used for?

Interesting stuff!

Yeah if you don't check them all, might as well not check any! I used the water test. Started up and sprayed a little water in the areas where the manifold contacts the engine. Before I hunted down the bolts and tightened them, when I sprayed the water the idle dropped, identifying there were gaps. After tightening what I found loose, the water had no effect. Nice to get some positive feedback that something actually got better!