AnotherOldJeepGuy

If you locate the fuse, please post of picture to help locate it. Mine doesn't work either, I have a brand new column switch, and no LED lights. Would be nice if a fuse would fix it...

Check. Be careful with doing too much extra thinking, it will almost certainly lead to another Jeep maintenance or repair job!

I attempted to determine if the cap was hitting the hood with a propped up piece of masking tap on the cap and closing the hood. I don't think it is touching, I am pretty sure the old one did a little because of the bloated tank. I read that the Volvo cap is lower profile, but it's also closing in on $20 at this point, so my plan is to monitor for a little while and if no leaks are seen, leave it alone. If I see leaking I might go ahead and get the Volvo cap and see what happens. If I learn anything useful, I'll post it. I saw on a different forum that someone lowered the tray a little for clearance to the hood, I have wondered about this myself but have not pursued it, yet

Yeah, sometimes you just need a little backup! More than once I have asked stuff here just to help me choose to go on with a bit more confidence! And other times I just don't know what the heck I am doing . The collective knowledge on this forum, and the willingness to help, is second to none!

Awesome! Glad you got it!

I had this off when I took out my TB to clean it. I don't remember exactly how I got it back on only that it did take more than a finger pinch to snap it on, but it did snap on. On the top I think I used channel locks to squeeze it back together. I'd put a little vaseline on the connection to help it slip into place, and I think I'd also put a folded up shop towel on the plastic side to help protect it just in case. For me if I remember right (no promise here), the bottom was also tight but I could not get the vice grips down there, so I used a piece of wood on the inner side to support the joint so I wouldn't bend it, then used a small crowbar to snap it on. It didn't really need "crowbar pressure" so much, it was just that tool had a good angled shape to get what pressure was needed focused at the right place. I know I did this process for something and it seems like that something was this but I can't remember 100%, but I think it would work either way I used a a tool that looks like this to remove it. Not sure what you call it, but it is typically a used for removing automotive door panels. Oh and yes, welcome to 90's Jeep ownership!

I just swapped out my coolant reservoir. I think this might be the 4th time over the years! My question is about the cap. I adding in a picture of the old split cap, as well as pictures of the old very bloated tank and the new one. The old tank swelled up a couple years ago, I think this was a result of overheating (which was due I believe to insufficient coolant because the folks that swapped in a new radiator didn't burp it well., but I managed to get it burped and the overheating stopped). Anyway my real question is about the cap. The split open open one has an obvious pressure release, but the new cap doesn't particularly look like it does. The new tank is Dorman 603-300 purchased a few years ago when I knew I'd need it sooner or later. The last time I replaced this tank, it had the same black cap but I didn't use it, opting to reuse the one from the one before that, the one that has now split. Is this new cap also designed to let off excess pressure but just doesn't look like it? If the answer is NO, can anyone direct me to when I can get one like my old one? I do see that every Dorman 603-300 I can find online now has this same black cap. Oh, my other question is, that is the metal threaded orifice/port on the top of the tank used for?

Interesting stuff!

Yeah if you don't check them all, might as well not check any! I used the water test. Started up and sprayed a little water in the areas where the manifold contacts the engine. Before I hunted down the bolts and tightened them, when I sprayed the water the idle dropped, identifying there were gaps. After tightening what I found loose, the water had no effect. Nice to get some positive feedback that something actually got better!

I dug up a pic and then annotated it to help me find all the bolts when I was running down the info to check mine.

Never considered racing my Jeep, but good to know it is properly prepared to do so!

I chased down my similar issue, with lots of help from the experts on this forum. You can follow the store at the link below if you like...

Mine too. I've heard this is normal multiple times, but I don't know that I ever heard anyone explain why? So, can anyone explain why this is?

Fun to watch! Would have preferred it ended with "and just released, 2026 will see the return of the Comanche". Oh well, one can dream....

Good Luck!

Looking good! The white in the checkerboard ties in nicely with the white door. Are you going to try to tweak the seats to match? Perhaps use the same checkerboard material on the headrests?

It sure seems that way sometimes!

Pulled the unit and put the multi-meter to work. Ground continuity was good from the radio harness ground pin connection to several different places in the cab. 12V was present on the constant voltage harness pin all the time, and present on the switched on voltage harness pin when the key is on. So the real test, put the old radio back in, it works. So it would appear the new one I put in about 80 days ago (with a 60 day return policy) just died.

Mine also.

Hmm, I don't have an ETR Fuse! There are no contacts for it at the bottom end (circled) and there is no "ETR" printed on the assembly as other labels are. I also don't have the 30A that is shown next to it in this scan from my owner's manual, not that that's related to this problem, just noting it doesn't exist either. Since the radios I have installed over the years, including the current one have all worked since 1990 until yesterday, and I don't see 2 fuses laying on the floor, it's pretty reasonable to assume these have never been there on my particular vehicle. So whatever my issue is, it doesn't appear to be a blown ETR fuse in my case. Perhaps this, and the 30A, exist for some other MJ variant?

Thanks. I didn't know the Beach Boys has such automotive savvy! Perhaps they acquired that expertise working on the little deuce coupe. Interesting that the Clock fuse is not hot all the "time", but now I know! I'll check the ETR fuse, and look into the panel ground upgrade info.

Got in the jeep this morning, no radio. All black so is not powering up. Before pulling the dash trim and radio unit I checked the fuses. The Radio Fuse is good. With the key off, voltage there is 0. With key on it is ~12V. It's worth noting that my ACC position has not worked for years since a shop replaced the ignition switch, which I didn't catch until long after the repair was done. Anyway.... I also checked voltage at the Clock Fuse because even though I don't have a clock, I took a guess that since a clock would require constant power, that this clock fuse might also control the radio constant power. Does it?. What I see is the voltage at the Clock Fuse is also 0 when the key is off, and ~12V with the key is on. Is the voltage at this fuse supposed to be switched or constant? I'll be pulling the radio unit Saturday morning (when it's not yet 100 degrees out there) so that I can probe the voltage where it really counts for powering up the radio, but I may ultimately be back at the questions above, so might as well ask them now.

Should I be at all concerned that shifting with this new cable is not as smooth as it was before? Or is this normal for a new cable and it should get smoother with a little use?

a good addition, but in this particular case sounds like it really doesn't matter much... Ah, interesting. My car has that...

I discovered this loose connection during the job. It looks like it was not connected prior to the work judging from the condition of the connectors. and also because I don't remember pulling on anything hard enough to pull off a connection (but it would not be the first time I did it). Perhaps a connection for an instrument cluster gauge that I don't have since I only have lights in there?