AnotherOldJeepGuy

I looked at that section of my Haynes manual. The information there is written quite well for an experienced mechanic, one that already knows how to do it, to follow it. But not enough detail for my ASTM (Advanced Shade Tree Mechanic) degree. I'll continue my search for a youtube video that shows how to tell what a proper adjustment looks like and how to achieve it.

Just backed into the normal parking spot, moved the shifter all the way up, indicator on Park, full to the left, but when I let off the brake the truck went backwards, so the transmission was in reverse with the indicator in Park. It gets more confusing now. Indicator on Park - Transmission appears to actually be In Reverse - I CAN turn the key. Switch to ON works, Starter will not engage. To get started I have to put in the key, move the KEY to the ON position with the indicator still in the Park position, then once the key is in the ON position, move the indicator to "R" then turn the KEY further to the start position and the starter will engage. So when the indicator is at "R" the transmission is in Neutral which is allowing me to engage the starter. Indicator on R - Transmission in Neutral Indicator at N - Transmission in Drive Once started as described I can drive using "N" as Drive and Park as Reverse. Doesn't seem too safe though since I don't really know what to expect. To shut down I need to put the shift indicator in Park (transmission in Reverse) which will allow me to turn the ignition to the off position and remove the key. I'd like to assume only one thing "broke" rather than many things failing simultaneously, so, what might that one broke thing be?

Cool

Just for fun I'll take a guess that the black piece on the left is one of the tailgate rubber stops and the part on the right is a windshield washer pump. It will be interesting (to me at least) to see what the experts say they are .

Well if you happen to find and install the power window mod, I could use the manual cable mechanism if you would like to get rid of it (well and it still works ). Both sides of mine are bad!

If you don't have power windows, you could use that space as I did...

Makes sense. I will look for some Oil Eater and give that a try. We do have a couple coin washers in the vicinity still.

Does oil eater have the same warning to cover electricals first?

I have used about 4 cans and one spray bottle of GUNK Engine Degreaser over the last several months and there is still a fair amount of crap! The degreaser warns of getting it on electrical connections although it doesn't elaborate on what ones are and are not an issue. To this point I have been crimping aluminum foil over stuff in the area I am spraying, curious what everyone else does.

Yikes! I hope all is well now.

My 2 cents for what it's worth. I punch a hole in the top of the old filter to release the vacuum and let more oil out before removing it. I use a nail rather than a drill since I think the drill might leave shavings where the nail is just a flared out puncture.

Here is the assembled version if that is helpful. Both pics are the left side.

Yep, now if I can get Midas to honor the lifetime parts & labor muffler contract I bought in 1999, my truck will be so quiet I'll be able to hear my radio.

The lion has been tamed! Installed today - new rotors, new bearings with lots of grease worked in, new caliper springs and slide pins, and new pads just because I had it all apart and it was going to be time before long anyway, and the roar is no more! Thanks for all the assist!

I think I would take the one you are holding in your hand apart and see what is in there. There could be an actual fuse in there and if so it should have it's rating shown on it. It's possible you fine out that these are just couplers that look like fusible links. In either case the one you are holding isn't usable anyway, so nothing to loose by dissecting it!

I have new bearings in hand and hope to get back to this job shortly. I am hoping there may be a bad bearing in the lot somewhere that will be gone once I do the full swap and take the roar with it.

Ah, I have been dialog enhanced, good to speak the same language !

Some bad weather, and the annual IRS documentation prep and some misc other stuff have taken the front seat for a bit, so there is no change cause I haven't gotten to the next step yet. My limited mechanic dialog doesn't understand cup, roller or cage, but hopefully those items are addressed by replacing rotors, bearings and pads since that is the next step I have planned. Sometime over the next few days I hope to get back to this work, will post the result......

I didn't check that I could see throughout all the pages, but I could see all the pics on the first two pages. I looked at the image properties one a couple and they are JPEG, so that would explain why I think.

Yeah that is curious. It's been mentioned that iPhone can be configured to capture in JPEG, maybe that explains you viewing success?

Thanks, too much time has past to remember what I was reading at the time, but if it comes up again I'll try to remember you can do the translation!

Gotcha. I was really wondering if there was a way to make them viewable "natively" on this forum the same way a JPEG is.