AnotherOldJeepGuy

I like that idea. I have hunted around a bit but so far what I have found, Bluetooth or not, don't seem to fully support 1997 Avalon

Well it is raining today, might be enough in the local closed school parking lot. Not crazy about trying to trigger ABS but we'll see. Planning to take a good look around the wheel sensor wires just in case something got bumped during the first flush. Also hoping I can get to the wheel sensor connection and check the resistance at each to see if any stand out. Any recommendation on a OBDII reader that is good enough to exercise the ABS and point to the real trigger?

Yeah my reader is the low cost variety, just basic codes (see response to Pete above). Sounds like the hard stop on loose surface may map to the "stomp hard" Pete was talking about. Not a lot of gravel roads here in the city to simulate ice, it may be just as hard to find that as it is turning out to be finding the root cause!

I'll take a look around the ABS unit...

There was a speed sensor code of some kind but I don't have it handy, I'll read it again. My reader isn't high tech enough to tell me which wheel :(. I'll post back if the car makes it here today as potentially scheduled. Still seems to be a standout that the original bleed was the only thing done before the problems came up, but who knows on a 97 especially. Never hear of the "stomp hard reset"!

So a 97 Avalon is far from a Jeep anything, but the expertise on this site well exceeds limitation to Jeep. About a month ago my son decided he would like to flush out his coolant and brake fluid since he really has no idea how old either might be. Seemed reasonable to me so we proceeded. I have done coolant flushing before, and although I have never done a full brake flush, I had bled brakes before. Neither of these jobs have been problematic in the past. Coolant flush went smooth. Brake flush seems to be fine based on the fact that the brakes work. But very soon after this flush the ABS light now comes on a lot. It doesn't stay on and seems to come on sparatically, relatively close to using brakes. And also the parking brake light does the same thing although not necessarily at the same time. We are going to try bleeding again, since that's the only thing that was done between when the lights didn't come on and when they did. The brake fluid add point is a small plastic reservoir, and we can only add very small amount of fluid at a time between bleeding cycles at each wheel. We have been careful to make sure it doesn't go empty or close to empty. Any insights? Thanks

I'll post this add on just for fun. My pass side window crank is stripped out starting about 2" from full down. Once you go past that spot you have to pull the glass up. So if you, or your unsuspecting passenger should happen to fully lower the window, you are a bit stuck. So my solution to date is a trusty piece of 2x6 in the bottom of the door to prevent any accidental full lowering. Far from stock, and I didn't even use an OEM 2x6, but it does keep my window "roll-upable".

Thanks for the tip, I'll be paying them a visit today!

I may go this way, I generally have good luck with NAPA parts. Yeah they are $6 more than the ones on Amazon for 2, at first, but the Amazon shipping fee is $6.99, so Napa is actually about a dollar less on the bottom line.

Great. Thanks for that confirmation. I think I'll see if I can clean the lens and then give these a try.

@pizzaman09 so these are this just plug-n-play? It appears that is the case so just confirming . @gogmorgo yeah I was wondering about code issues but figured as long as I only had these on when backing up I could get away with it. And I agree hanging from the bumper does ask for them being taken off unexpectedly but I don't do much off road anymore! My bulbs are not all that old and come on they just don't provide much useful light (perhaps they did when my eyes were 34 years younger...), but the other tail lights seem to be as bright as they ever were for what that's worth. Thanks!

I see multiple posts about making headlights better / brighter, and I will probably do that sooner or later. But the lights that are even more weak are the backup lights. Unless it is pitch black out, the reverse lights might as well be off! So I expect something following the relay plan would work well for adding some backup lighting that actually lights up the area! I am envisioning something like add on fog lights, mounted under the bumper, powered directly from 12V through relays that are activated by the existing backup light 12V signal. I figured before I tackle this I might as well plant a seed here in case someone else already did this and wants to share what they did and how it worked out. I'll also add on once I get motivated as to what I come up with.

I have the same dimmer issue. Good info here. I am really replying so I can get back here easily since I was not able to find how to select "follow topic" without posting some comment! I guess since I am posting, I'll ask if anyone can recommend a good new replacement switch?

Here's an ebay listing of the heater control where you can see what connections are back there. https://www.ebay.com/itm/283916101108 The radio comes out pretty easily. There are about 6 screws to remove the faceplate that mounts in front of the gauges and the radio area. It comes out easier if you tilt the steering wheel down. I only do this when it's hot, less likely to break the plastic faceplate than when it's cold because you do have to deform it slightly to get it out. But I have done it about a dozen times and being careful I have gotten it out in one full piece. Once that is off you can pull the radio and see what kind of slack there is for the connections. The difficulty will be if you have slack in the connections. The above doesn't exactly tell you what you might run into, but short of that perhaps it's a starting point.

It's possible you just a noise sensitive radio. You may be able to eliminate that noise with one of these filters although the success of these is sometimes they work and sometimes they don't. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120ANR1000/Axxess-AX-ANR1000.html If I remember correctly from many years back, one test for this noise being external is hooking power direct to the battery and see if it goes away. If it dose then you at least know noise free is possible and the filter is more likely to work. Or you could just leave the power coming from the battery as a solution but then you have to always turn it off/on manually (unless you want to rig up some kind of relay solution) so not that user friendly.

If you are updating the speakers at the same time and have a blank spot in front of the door handle that I assume was for maybe a power window and/or door switch option that I didn't get, it makes for a nice location to add a small dome tweeter.

Thanks. Not bad really, just a sprain, more annoying than anything else. But doc said if I want it to heal and stop hurting every time I open my truck door I have to wear this thing for 2 months! I managed to do the hoses "short handed" but some things are gonna have to wait

Gotcha. Well if they are hard to get to its gonna have to wait a couple months until I am free of my Darth Vader glove... ! I'll keep it on the to do list though!

I have driven a couple more times since my battery disconnect reset and so far knock on wood still running normal. But the overall loudness of the running engine has gotten slowly louder. I have been assuming this was my 25 year old muffler but the next time I am in there I'll try to see if any are loose. Happen to know what torque these should get assuming I find any loose?

Football game's over, we won! Now going for a second win... Reconnected the battery and started up running normal! I'm not going into full celebration mod just yet because it did hiccup about 3 times, but overall it ran normal. I am cautiously optimistic the ECU reset did it and the RELEARN advice was what I needed. Once again the expertise of this group comes to the rescue! Thanks again.

It's halftime for the game I am watching so I just disconnected the battery. I'll hook it back up after the game. Per the reset info, this should load default settings. If the settings being no longer good with the new hoses is the problem, maybe defaults are a better place to start. Will post back if that helped.

Ah got it. Doesn't look like letting it run in the garage will cut it . I didn't have the battery disconnected but I get that a reset could still possibly be useful. I'll have to drive it to go through the reset, still not crazy about doing that but short of other ideas I guess I will risk it.

Thanks, I have checked and all the hoses are connected where they were originally. I think this pic shows the other end of the one you mentioned correct? Jeep is running rough enough that I don't feel like is should really be driven, I don't want to get stranded along the road! Can you guess at all how much relearning time might be needed? Am I right to assume it could relearn just setting in my garage running rather than actual driving?

Oh I also put in a new cap where you add oil to replace the old one that was very loose because the gasket was worn out.