AnotherOldJeepGuy

My 40 year old Sear Diehard finally did die, so I would like to get a replacement. It looks like most of the chargers similar to what I had, go for $50 and up. In my browsing, I see a lot of "mini chargers" out there that according to the words, work essentially as good as the old personal style, and at half or less the cost. It sounds like these small chargers are actually better (better controlled charging, protection, etc.) than the old style with the exception that they don't include the full current needed to start the vehicle with the charger. Any experience with these $20 chargers you would like to share? If providing start current is not a feature needed, what else might be a reason to spend 2x-3x to charge a battery? Example of what I call old style: Example of mini-charger from Walmart:

Those are all well and good, but clearly the WV Mountaineers cover is the way to go.. .

A1: That sound logical A2: The "x" I see downloads the file rather than deleting it....

A couple questions actually. Q1: If a file is deleted from My Attachments, does it remain in posts it was originally put in? Q2: How do I delete a file from My Attachments? I can only appear to view or download, I don't see how to delete. Thanks

DeoxIT seems to have lots of good reviews. Also ran across CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner that also has good reviews. Both claim to dry quickly without leaving residue and will not harm plastics. So will probably get one or the other and give it a try.

Will do. I did stop at ACE HW today and they said they do normally carry something with the name contact cleaner, but were out of stock. We are in for a deep freeze here in North Texas for the next few days, so the search will resume after it warms up a bit.

I was able to visually verify they exist and don't look loose. Trying to get to them is still on the list but so far I have not been able to get to them with a wrench.. can't see them from the top to aim the wrench, and so far I can't reach them from underneath! So since for the other areas the water test was very effective in locating leaks on that end, and also in showing afterwards that tightening closed the leaks at those points, I am for the moment assuming that since the water test from below doesn't show any leaks (ie rpm does not change when sprayed), they are no leaks there. I know that is not the same as being 100% sure with a wrench, but it seems to be good evidence that they are not leaking based on how well it worked in other locations. Does that seem logical?

They all look connected and I don't see any that look damaged. But maybe I'll disconnect and reconnect them just to see if anything changes. Back when Radio Shack existed they sold a contact cleaner spray that worked wonders on TV and CB tuners, wish I had a can of that stuff to clean the connections as well.

I decided to assume that moving the plunger/shaft piece in the blue square in the pic I posted last time, since I can't see anything that looks like what I would call a "diaphragm", would be how to perform the Valve Closing Test. As soon as I was able to move that piece to the right (away from the intake) the RPM dropped immediately. Since this is the pass criteria for the Valve Closing Test, it would appear that it passes. So, given both the Valve Closing and Valve Opening tests passed, it would appear my EGR valve should not be the issue, at least not according to the link 1 test. Without something to measure vacuum, I have to stop at this point on that part and not do the link 2 test. It's beginning to look like I need to follow my dad's plan. In the 80s he was a big fan of the AMC Pacer (Well was an Eagle fan first but moved on to the Pacer). He had 3.5 Pacers, so that when something wasn't working he could swap parts from one to another to find out what wasn't working. But the key was that at least at some point the 3 fully assembled Pacers did work. The 0.5 one, well that was really just a pile of potential spare parts.

@fiatslug87, the part within the blue square in the pic below moved to the right (as orientated in the picture, which is movement away from the engine) when I cranked up the RPM. That looks to me like something more like a shaft that a diaphragm, but, it did move and I didn't see anything else moving. Is this the movement I should be witnessing to pass the Valve Opening Test? If the answer to that question is "Yes", then is this the same thing I should try to move manually when idling to do the Valve Closing Test?

Yeah, I was hoping to make some improvement here

I do have a part that looks like what is identified as EGR valve in Figure 48 in the second post. I have not tested it. I'll read the instructions a few more times and see if I can make any headway on testing it. I don't have a tachometer, so I'll have to take a wild guess of hitting the 1500 RPM step, and I don't have any kind of vacuum gauge, but I should at least be able to the steps that don't require that piece of equipment. On to fix attempt number, hmm, I think I lost count....

Old O2 sensor out, new O2 sensor in. Stalls exactly the same. Is this another one of those cases where the computer needs to relearn, or is the effect of the new sensor instant?

Got the new O2 Sensor today from Rock Auto. Step 4 has some conditional stuff in there about M18 v M12 sensors and whether or not a "flange" exists. Given the specs, the Thread Diameter of the one I got is 18mm, can I assume that would make it a M18 sensor? I don't see anything in the description that would help me know if there is a "flange" or not. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1644114&cc=1181720&pt=5132&jsn=3

Agreed. Late last night I had a memory cell come back on so I looked it up this morning. That memory was from quite a while back, and the cruise has not worked since quite a while back. The memory was from a service done, recommended by a mechanic, that once looked up, was "tighten steering column" and was done in 2008. Back in those days way before the relatively recent retirement I did less of the repairs myself and took fewer road trips (which is essentially the only time I use cruise) since 3 kids would not really fit in the cab at the same time. It is entirely possible that recommended service included severing that wire, and I can easily see that by the time I had the opportunity to use it again enough time had passed that I may not have made the connection, pun intended. In either case, the wire is open now, and its a bit late to take it back to that shop and call them on it.

So it sounds like if I could identify the accessible wire under the dash, I could just connect that point to the loose end at the control arm, and verify the cruse control functionally before attempting the more difficult fishing expedition for a more cosmetic fix. For that matter, if that makes cruse functional, I could just secure that connection outside the column and call it a day, it would not be the only thing less than visually attractive in the cab..

Ah OK. Well I would assume I do since the cruse control used to work.

At the moment all I am sure of are the same 2 bullets but with the input from @pizzaman09 I feel like my amount of sure about my guess on the wire is stronger.

Now if I could only reach the other end!

For the moment I only know two things about the cruise control that did at one time work: 1. Cruise doesn't work. 2. There appears to be a broken wire that may or may not have anything to do with this problem. FWIW, the other functions of the control do still work, so that would seem to suggest the one thing that doesn't work might be due to the one thing I can see that is presumably broken (I'll assume a disconnected wires is not per spec). If I could see/reach the other end of the broken wire I would try reconnecting it, but I can only see the piece in the pic. But since I have multiple other more pressing issues, I'll keep this one on the back burner, and be a fly on the wall to this thread for the time being.

@knever3, please post how your repair works out. My factory cruise control has been replaced with my right foot for quite a few years now, I would not mind getting the original back!

I found a couple, neither the one I saw before, so I'll tack them on here for future reference for me or anyone else looking.. This one is not 100% inclusive, but it's probably good enough. This one is useful overall, but doesn't specifically cover replacing the HK7

Thanks but that's not it. If I ever find it again I'll both bookmark it and post it here.

Somewhere here there is a post, that includes a youtube link of a guy replacing the Fuel Regulator snap in connector. But a bunch of searches later, I cannot find that post, or any youtube post that has a video of doing this for that matter . I would prefer doing this right the first time, so if you happen to know where that post is, or any video doing this, please provide a link! Thanks!

Ah this pic shows that you don't need to take the fan off, you only have to get to the top|!. Much better!