AnotherOldJeepGuy

Well it seems the more I "fix" the more problems I get. At the beginning of this thread the problem was the disconnected hose for the MAP sensor that caused the truck to run VERY rough. Once this was reconnected it ran normal. Although the original task of replacing the valve cover gasket damaged hose connecting at the front of the valve cover I ordered the new assembly from Napa I linked earlier. This assembly came with all new hoses to the left (the "New" side in picture 1). 1 of these was the new hose to the valve cover. 2 of these were short loop backs, and the 4th was from the assembly routed below the large corrugated hose from the air cleaner box to something just to the other side under the hose (pic 2). The kit also included an additional new hose which I installed also. For access I removed the large hose from the air cleaner, and also disconnected one electrical connection. Now with all of this in place, the truck once again runs rough. Not nearly as rough as the original failure caused by the MAP sensor being disconnected, but still rough and it ran smoothly before this (*once, before this new assembly was put in but after the MAP sensor issue was resolved, when I stopped somewhere the idle was higher than usual but returned to normal when I restarted). The new connections match the old ones, the MAP sensor is still connected (I checked again), so what happened? The only other thing I did was attempt to remove the small hose to the back of the valve cover to try to clean it, but it was not willing to come loose at the engine side so the original is still there same as it was before.

Got my hands on a torque wrench, checked one of the bolts and it clicked at around 7.5-8 ft-lbs, not far off the recommended 85 in-lbs (7.1 ft-lbs) so I guess my shade tree intuition was not too bad.

Good input. If the OEM wasn't available good to know there is a convenient backup plan. Surprisingly, the full assembly appears to be available in 2 piece, where I would only need the end half.. https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=vacuum harness&referer=v2, and it is actually cheaper that the example aftermarket you noted, go figure!

Sounds right. I have probably put on about 10 miles since the install. I have had the need, well the interest anyway, to add a torque wrench to the collection so I suspect I'll get one and check the torque that my intuition ended up with, and go from there.

I have now replaced my valve cover gasket, and after some help here finding out where the disconnected hose goes in a new thread, all is well. I used the same intuition I have used for 50 years for any other bolt tightening when tightening the valve cover bolts. My question is, suppose I got found myself with a torque wrench. Seems fine to go around again and touch the bolts if any were under torqued, but if they are not under torqued, let's say just a little over torqued, would I mess up the gasket seal if I slightly loosened the bolts and re-tightened them using a torque wrench? Or is it too late for that?

Thanks for the suggestions Greg. Yes I was planning to replace the larger hose since the grommet came apart at the valve cover and now it's just setting there. But I didn't know about the common carbon build-up in the smaller one, I'll see if I can carefully remove it and clean it out. Or I might just replace it along with the other since it's only $15 at Napa. I am a little afraid to try and replace the grommet there at this point since it may fall apart like the front one when I try to pull it out, and having just put on the new valve cover I'd hate to have to do it over again if half of the grommet fell inside. Here's where hindsight comes in, should have replaced that when the cover was already off! I'm pretty handy with my soldering iron so I might skip the de-pin plan, but I'll give it some thought! There's a lot of other lines I'd like to replace, the plastic ones are so brittle that they tend to break if you even look strongly at them. But several of them seem to disappear into the obis, or through the firewall, and I don't know what it would take to fish new ones in, and then I don't even know if these molded lines are even available, so I am holding off on that project. GM

I installed these in my 1990 and they fit perfectly without using the optional bezels that were included. Before I donate these to the landfill I thought I'd offer them to anyone here that might need them. The picture of the light with bezel is from an Ebay posting (https://www.ebay.com/itm/121059797132) for the full assembly, just for reference. All I have up for grabs are the 2 Bezels. If you have a need for these just message me your continental US address and I'll send them to you.

Found the connection! Running normal now, thanks. I guess I'll tie wrap the connection with the broken tab so it won't wiggle loose.

Looks like that green thing is part of a latch. I have hunted but can't see anything to attach that plastic hose to, perhaps someone can post a picture where it goes when it is connected.

I just replaced my valve cover gasket today. I had a lot of oil leaking, but the engine ran fine. Now I need HELP! I cleaned up the area where the gasket goes so it looked pretty clean both on the engine and on the old valve cover. Now the truck runs very rough, sounds like it has a bad exhaust, and quickly fills my garage with what I believe is probably carbon monoxide! There was a hose that I broke, I believe it is a vacuum hose of some kind. It split as I tried to remove it it out of the valve cover. It split into only two pieces, that part outside the cover and the part just inside the cover. I was able to pull out the piece that stayed in the cover with needle-nose pliers. When it came out it also cracked the plastic pipe at the other end. I temporarily taped it back together, and set the other in in the hole, but it is not held in tight. The only other thing I see is a piece of plastic pipe that seems to go nowhere at one end, that is, I can't see anyplace to connect it. The other end is up by the firewall. My guess is this pipe has been open for a long time, but I can't prove it. I can't see anything else that looks touched, and the two things I mentioned above don't seem to be large enough trouble to totally mess up the engine running, but, they are the only things I can see and the truck is running very rough now. The vacuum hose assembly is available so I'll replace it, but is that hose enough to cause what I have described? If not, any other ideas what has happened? I can't imagine how a valve cover gasket replacement messed up the engine, but something did!

I don't know what it is you are letting me know... But I swapped the gasket today with failed results. I think at this point I need to start a new thread.

Thanks

Yeah I know, another question. But better to ask now than when I am oily and greasy and in the middle of the gasket replacement. In the pic of the new valve cover gasket, I am curious about the tab. This is where "COVER SIDE" is stamped. The question is not what does that mean , it is about the tab itself. The curiosity is, isn't this tab going to stick out beyond the lip of the valve cover? Seems like that is going to prevent a good seal at that point?

Thanks. FYI just to show it, here is the fel pro insert...

I am about to replace my valve cover gasket with the blue fel pro one (pn VS50522T). The new gasket came with a very small written instruction, not mentioning any type of sealant being added. So what is the consensus here on the need for adding any sealant versus just cleaning well and using this gasket as is? It is thick rubber so it seems that it might not be needed, but, well that's why I am asking. If the consensus is add something, what is the recommended addition? Lastly, what is the torque on the valve cover gasket bolts? Or is it just "snug plus 1/2 turn" like my dad would have probably done 50 years ago.. Thanks

More rookie, OK seasoned rookie at least but I still have not purchased a lingo dictionary. Sooo, what/where are "main caps"?

Guy Plano, TX 1990 Pioneer 2WD (original owner) Currently around 225k miles.

Check, I'll restrain myself!

Gotcha! Thanks

Ah Ok, so not on ramps! Thanks for that clarification.

I am considering this job, but I am far from an expert. I've have swapped out Alternator, Starter, Radiator, Brakes and one fender, but this seems a level harder than any of those. I'll start by tacking on here for some "just a bit past rookie" clarifications. @robfg67 "pull the front wheels and jack up the MJ by the frame to let the suspension to droop to get the pan out?". @watchamakalit "Full droop of the front axle is required for pan removal." I don't suppose you have any pictures but if you do that would be a great addition to the thread to better understand this droop and where you jacked things up to get it. If not perhaps some additional words? I am envisioning two sets of jack stands but don't have any real info to back that guess on. @Pete M, what is this "5-way"? Thanks!

I had some turn signal issues that were worse in very hot weather. Standard bulbs everywhere. It turned out my battery was on the way out and when I put in a new battery the signal problems went away.

Success!

For any penny pinchers reading this, or just for the curious (or us engineers that just can't help it), and for an order of 2, it cost $1.75 more at Parts Hub assuming they collect tax (which EBAY will do). If Parts Hub doesn't collect sales tax (Texas) then EBAY is $1.22 more. And just for fun from a long time EBAY seller myself, Parts Hub will have to share their sale with EBAY to the tune of close to 15%, so they really effectively net somewhere in the ballpark of $8 more selling directly, so no surprise they would strongly prefer selling directly!