AnotherOldJeepGuy

Thanks Pete - that is a clever fix! And assuming I can get to the needle easily it would be a quick fix, that depends on if the plastic front can be removed without pulling the full cluster, TBD I guess. Thanks gogmorgo, I am not familiar with cruiser54 or MTS, but I am sure Google is!

My fuel gauge issue is that when full the needle is around 1/4 tank distance beyond Full. The real problem is that the gauge read somewhere between 1/8 and 1/4 when I run out of gas. This operation is consistent, but I would still prefer having an accurate fuel gauge! All parts are original 1990 parts and there have been no modification done that I know of... The only work I know of was I had the ignition switch swapped out once when I though that was an issue with a start up failure. At the end of that repair my AUX position no longer works, but I didn't find out the AUX didn't work until months after the work was done since it's not something I use much. I also don't know when I first noticed the fuel gauge issue so I can't tie the two issues together with confidence. From the post above I can see that I should be able to test the gauge itself pretty easily if I get it out. I have noticed while surfing some it being said that removing the fuel gauge is a PITA, so before I start, any advice on what I am getting myself into if I want to pull it? Any thoughts on the potential relationship to the fuel gauge failure and the ignition switch swap? Thanks.

Updated 3/25/2026 230,000 1990 Comanche Pioneer 2WD Original Owner