AnotherOldJeepGuy

Congrats on the successful extraction! Just FYI, I recently purchased new ones from rock auto that fit perfectly and did not cost much. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1133353&cc=1181720&pt=10281&jsn=6 Lubricating the ones you put in should help this from happening in the future. https://youtu.be/Yj6f8crrwZ4

I have now repacked bearings on both sides and re-seated both sides so there is no wiggle. I think the first pass issue might be that "finger tight" for me now is not as much torque as it used to be, so I had to assist just a smidge with tools. My low roar is still there unchanged with this completed and also front wheels swapped . The bearings don't look at all damaged. I went ahead and ordered new rotors (ones for which dust seal are still available) and new bearings and I'll get them in sometime in the near future. If the roar is still there then I guess I just have to let it roar until I get new tires and just maybe somehow that is still the cause (although I would have though it would have changed when I swapped them if that was it).

Ah OK, I think I got it! Will give that a try.

I like the video. It doesn't say anything about the 17-25 torquing followed the the 19 torquing? So not clear on which method you are recommending..?

The right side was disassembled cleaned and inspected, bearings repacked and then reassembled. This was the side that was originally wiggling slightly and the side I repaired threads. This is also the side I pictured that I could not get the back side seal out. In trying to do that the rubber was damaged so I know that is another problem to fix, but I am assuming the rubber on the back side seal is not immediately necessary, that is, that won't cause noise or wobble at least on 1 day. At the moment I have not removed the left side because I am pretty sure I won't be able to get that inner side seal out either so until I resolve the right side I am not messing with the left side further. What I am trying to understand is why the left side has a little wiggle now and it didn't before. I did remove the nut so I could verify the nut for the right side was correct thread, and to test the replacement nut for the right side was also the correct thread, but I did not touch the left rotor at that time, so it sure seems to me that I SHOULD be able to re-tighten the left side nut and not have any wiggle since it didn't wiggle before. If I can't even re-tighten a nut on a "non=wiggling" assembly and have it not wiggle, my confidence that I can put on all new hardware with success is pretty weak! So I am trying to understand this, and learn what I need to learn on the hardware I have before going further.

Test drive after reassembly, the same sound is still there, and it still goes away when I veer left. It may be a bit less loud or I might just think it is. I swapped front wheels but the sound did not change, still goes away on veer left. When I started this, I first checked for wiggle on the wheel with the truck jacked up, and got some wiggle top/bottom on the right side. This lead to disassembly of the right side and the discovery of the mangled threads. I did not feel any wiggle when I checked the left side. During debug and attempting to verify if the nut from the right side was good or bad I did remove the nut on the left side so I could try the nut there (it was bad or the wrong thread [potentially the cause of the thread damage in the first place]). Once both sides were fully reassembled I checked for any wiggle at the rotors before putting the wheels back on and there was none. But with the wheels on, I do feel a little wiggle on both sides now. The only thing I have done so far now is shake my head in disbelief that the "good" side is now also not good! Can't think why if the rotors don't wiggle, why there would be a little wiggle with the wheel on and the wheel lugs tight. My only guess at the moment that when I took off the nut on the left, then put it back, it somehow is not tight enough. I just hand tightened both sides, moving the rotor a bit to seat well, then just slightly snugged again with a wrench, maybe 1/8 of a turn. Do I need to put a torque wrench on and torque to some value?

I tried a bit but didn't push it too far yet. I checked at Napa and they didn't have a matching replacement and didn't even see anything that looked like the seal on the rotors I have. I looked online and didn't find one that looked like that one either, so I was hesitant to beat it up too much. I am considering just replacing the rotors with ones that have easily available support parts. Would solve the problem of finding the seals that match the rotors I have now (which will have to be replaced sooner or later anyway), and maybe next time around the search would be easier. That's where that's at now anyway. But if a part number for the ones I need should happen to show up here, I might decide to go that way. Decisions, decisions...

I am not surprised! I think you are off the hook @Pete M... if my video file can be played it will be more convincing although perhaps it will have to be downloaded to play. If not I know pictures work. I have not tried a video before. In short, the 3/4-16 Die appears to have worked much better than I expected. I have undoubtedly used up all my luck points for at least the first 6 months of 25. MVI_0078.AVI

This is not a job that is going to complete quickly (do any really). Problem is I had no way to know what was coming when I pulled it in the garage somewhat sideways taking up way more room that normally taken. And it's kinda stuck there. Do towing companies generally have anything they can use to move a vehicle that doesn't have all the wheels installed? I'd like to get it out of the garage and put back on the slab at the end of the driveway where it normally lives while this plays out so I can have my garage back in the mean time.

Yeah, well probably good for you cause I would have probably asked you to help install it too

Thanks, figures, I just got new pads in the mail from rock auto today, ordered before I knew the surprise that awaited me.

Plano TX

I hear ya and appreciate the warning. I guess that judgement call is forthcoming once I see the results of trying to refresh the threads....

Can anyone tell me the correct thread on the spindle? I need to make sure I get it right since I probably only have one shot at fixing the threads at best.

Thanks, once I get my threads restored, haven't given up on that quite yet, I can give that a try.

No got that kind of micrometer either, but I am going with @Pete M's version and say it's OK. But what I do got is more trouble courtesy (I assume but can't prove) of the shop that worked on it for me last time in 2021. I should have started working on this myself a lot sooner, even with my shade tree degree I know better than to force a connect to this degree. But that's under the bridge at this point. It was very difficult to remove the "hand tight" nut, and you can see why. I have a fairly large die "wrench" but I don't know if I have a bit big enough (pardon my terminology which is most likely wrong, but I think you can tell what I am attempting to say). I am guessing that reviving these threads is questionable, but at this point I don't have much to loose trying. Also while I am at it, I can't really see where to try removing the rear seal. I have identified 2 guesses for comment before I dig into this and cause damage I can't fix. A? B? Other? It doesn't look anything like the one in the good video I watched (https://youtu.be/Yj6f8crrwZ4), or what I think I remember from the 80s, so I am wondering if the shop that "customized" my threads also installed some kind of rotor that is pre-loaded with a bearing that is not intended to be accessible?.

While I in there, I will probably go ahead and replace the pads. They are 4 years old and look to be about 3/16 pad left. Rotors are the same age so if they are anything like rotors from my high school days, they should be good for 2 sets of pads. I tried to measure, but I don't have the right caliper to get it just right. With the version I have, it measures 7/8 thick, but there is a tiny ridge on the outer edge that is included in that measurement., probably adds a a total of around 1/16 to the actual measurement from my guestimate.

Understood! At this point I don't know if the noise is the bearing, or the tire, or both. Will see what I see once I get it apart, probably tomorrow. I won't be going very far in the Jeep until at least the wiggle is gone! For what it's worth, I didn't notice any noise or roughness when I spun the wheel.

The front right wheel can be wiggled a bit, so will be working on those bearings soon. May still be some tire noise also, but resolving the bearing issue is on the top of the list either way. Will probably just repack both sides but I'll work in a test drive after doing the right just to see what changes....

My expertise is way less than the real experts here, but I can start the conversation with my related experience. The last time my truck was overheating it was because there was air in the system. I believe it got in there when work was down earlier, a new water pump, and the system was not sufficiently burped. The air was worked out by letting it run with the reservoir cap off and adding fluid when it flowed and got low. After that air was replaced with coolant, it no longer overheated. If it were me I would go ahead and replace the cap. [A side note here, to a degree (pun intended), is that my current overflow tank has swelled, I assume during the time the truck was over heating. I mention this because a result of that swelling the cap, which has a relieve valve in to top of the cap, makes contact with the inside of the hood when closed just enough that I suspect it causes it to leak a tiny bit. So, if you get a new cap, which could be taller than the original, and you notice a small amount of fluid at the cap, check to see if it is contacting the inside of the hood. This tiny leak, for me, is not enough to cause a problem other than the need to add a little fluid from time to time.] I recently had intermittent belt squeaking. I could tell the belt was loose just by pressing on it to check the play. And in my case as well a small squirt of water temporarily silenced the squeal. I tightened the belt and the squeaking got worse! Then I loosen it about half of what I had tightened and it became happy and stopped squeaking. I later read, most likely here somewhere, a recommendation to "just tighten enough for the squeak to stop" which is probably where it ended up once I over tightened and then backed off a bit.

So I am used to noise in my 35 year old Jeep , but I am noticing one that maybe I can get rid of. I am noticing a roar, well a minor roar but I don't know a better word, as I am cruising along once I get up to 35-45 MPH. It is in the ballpark of an open A on my guitar, so around 440 Hertz. I don't notice the frequency being much different as I go faster, possible a little, but not much if any. As soon as I veer to the left just slightly it disappears, an comes back just as quickly when I return to straight down the road. It doesn't do the same if I veer right, that is veer right the noise is still there and it goes away if I slow down below 35-ish. I don't know how long this particular noise has been there cause, as noted, there all always noises of some kind. I may try swapping the two front tires just to see if anything changes, but though I'd go ahead a post this and see what the experts say.

Good luck @Smokeyyank, sounds like an interesting project! Never played with a PI, have thought about it from time to time though.

That's a great summary, thanks for taking the time to write all that! Sounds like ooma has potential.

Yeah, I should probably go cell only, but just haven't convinced myself to do it yet! One reason it just I am not one that quickly embraces change (as evident with my presence here as still driving my 1990 Jeep except when I am driving my 1994 car ). I also like my landline when I purchase or sign up for something and they force me to include a phone number, I can give them one that can't get text, and keep my cell off their spam list .

My choice of words used in my OP, "alternative for my current home phone service" may have been misleading as to what I meant to ask. I am wanting to replace my current home phone service that is around $30 a month, with something that works the same, but cost less. And wondering if anyone else has done this and been happy with what they switched to. Using ooma pricing as a starting point, that service would cost the same as what I pay now over the first 6 months, at 1 year the overall expense would be $137 less. and going forward, the monthly $6.85 cost would be around $23 less each month, so quite a bit less than my current basic phone. So ooma is probably where I'll go but if someone has something better to suggest, that still works the same, I'm all ears....