AnotherOldJeepGuy

Sounds good so far, will be watching to see if that last front socket repair does the trick!

Ah thanks. Well shoot, I already have the dash back in so I'll have to look for the second set the next time I have that removed.

Just swapped out my radio and I snapped the pic below of extra wired connectors behind the dash trim to the right of the light switch, and wondered what they are for. Would they be functional, ie, could I connect up what goes there and have functional, whatever goes there, stuff?

Installed new radio. Kenwood KDC-X305. Fits well but that is not a surprise since it is a 1U standard unit, and the one I had in there before (Blaupunkt San Jose MP41) was that also and I had already opened up the dash trim to allow the face-plate trim to fit. The install was smooth because of the standard size, and because Crutchfield provides the necessary connection harness the mates to the Jeep harness so all the wiring gets done at the kitchen table instead of in the cab, and the Jeep harness is unmodified. The Kenwood sounds good enough, but it is not the unit the Blaupunkt was. The Blaupunkt sounded better, and the user interface was WAY better! Sadly the 1994 purchased San Jose is no longer available and neither are spare parts. I do actually have 3 of them, the original and two purchased off EBAY that didn't last. I may actually try to make 1 good one out of the 3 I have, but I would not be holding my breath at successful radio repair! Worth noting that when I installed the Blaupunkt in 1994 I also installed new front speakers and added the tweeters already mentioned in my OP.

I learn something every time I read stuff here! Until today I always thought all water pumps that fit did pretty much exactly the same thing!

I had some screwy operation a while back, can't remember exactly what it was, and in my experimentation I replace the REAR turn signal bulbs, specified in the manual as #1156, with #2057 (which is what is specified for the FRONT turn signal lights), and the correct operation was restored. Don't ask me to explain it, but it worked. That was several years ago and other than the issue I get when it's 95 degrees out, all the signal lights work as they are expected to work.

Cool!

It's certainly possible that the B and A points connect, but I can't be sure from that pic alone. I am assuming the hose that starts in circle B follows the yellow line. If it does, and the yellow line continues over to the left edge of the engine bay and then heads down in the direction of the left side of the bumper towards a small tank (which I have heard called the football in some threads), than that becomes probably rather than just possible. If the yellow line goes as guessed then it most likely either connects to A or to C. I would be willing to make a guess that A is the more likely one but that is a guess. I don't believe there is any harm trying both and see if either connection restores airflow control so the air isn't stuck only coming out of the defrost vents. If it does then you know you have made progress and you know which connection is correct. Of course it is also possible that the airflow control still won't work for either connection which would suggest there is a second leak, a stuck baffle, or some other gremlin, but start with trying the connections and perhaps you will get lucky and that will be the only problem with the airflow control. Note you will need to start the engine to establish a vacuum since there is none currently, that is, you can't tell success by just switching on the system in the ACC position, since until you start the engine you won't get an initial vacuum. Once you determine which connection is correct, A or C, than the one you don't connect needs to go to the heater control valve.

Congrats. Reading this thread makes me think! When I bought my 90, in 1990, I had no idea I would have it so long that something as simple as a power steering cap (or any part really) would be obsolete during my ownership!

I had a similar scenario in an odometer in my car, the "works for the first few miles" issue, and for me it turned out to be a stepper motor in the odometer that was bad and quit as soon as it warmed up. I don't know what is in the MJ Odometer, so this might not apply, but it was my issue and a motor swap fixed the problem.

My turn signals sometimes stop working in hot weather. Also if I turn off AC, turn signals immediately start working! In one instance a few years back this was resolved when I got a new battery. Happened again yesterday so I checked voltage with engine still running, AC on, and battery voltage was around 14.5V. At the time I had not read this thread noting there are different flashers, so I did not know to try my hazards to see if they were acting the same. I just looked at NAPA for turn signal flasher relays, in case that's it, and found over 10 choices! The one or two noted as electronic, "I assume" are solid state so I get the difference there. But of the others there were still many and it's not just different brands. Some have 2 connector blades, some have 3, some have 2 with a pigtail! What the heck is going on here? Anyone have a particular favorite brand/part number they know is a good choice? Is solid state more reliable?

An expensive piece of plastic for sure. No extra charge for the broken mounting points though

Took a few days to get the time available to do it, but new (rebuilt warranty) starter installed, no problem starting now. When this one goes, unless it's a long life, I'll probably go with the AC Delco suggested by @Htchevyii and maybe be set for a while. It's only $69 at Rock Auto, I might just go ahead and buy one and be ready

That is correct, I went ahead and pulled the plastic cover and the + pigtail does indeed go to the Battery Terminal.

I have been avoiding the stock auto store cables because the pigtail cable gauge is way smaller, like maybe 75% smaller, than the OEM pigtail. I was thinking this went to the coil (I admit I didn't pull the electrical cover to confirm that thought since the plastic hold tabs are not in very good shape and figured they would break). But if this instead is a relay control signal, and since you already did it and without issue, I will probably give it a try.

Probably don't what it that bad..

I looked up by part number and it is a rebuilt from O'Reilly's (Ultima Starter - Remanufactured - R612453A). I purchased it in 2014, and I know for certain I have did at least 2 warranty swaps from that purchase, with another one on the way possibly. I'd like to get a better new positive cable, the one I put in last I had to cut the end off at the battery and get a bold on cable connection so I could add in the smaller cable to the coil (or at least I think that's where the smaller one goes). So I'd like to get one that had a preinstalled battery end cable connector and also the smaller cable to the coil pre-attached, but so far I have not found that.

Last June Jeep would not turn over, dead battery syndrome in most scenarios. But took battery to Napa and tester said the 500CCA battery was cranking out 778CCA. So I replaced the starter and everything was happy. Also put in new cables. Today appears to be a repeat. Started a little slow earlier today, then about an hour ago a lot slower, and now no crank. Battery reads around 12.5V. Hooked up my charger and set it on start, so +50A, still nothing. Will be taking the batter for another test shortly. Here's the rub. The exact same scenario happen maybe 10 years ago, and again the starter had crapped out over a day or two. If my current battery is still showing good, that means another starter in 11 months. Question to the group is, is it typical for a starter to just die over the course of a day or two? Is it typical for a start to work great for 11 months and then die? Is there something that might be causing this other than just a bad starter that I need to be fixing?

Oops, I guess I was thinking 4L for some reason. Don't see any on EBAY for 2.5L

Yeah, this is what I was referring to. I notice those are made to be usable with an impact driver. I didn't have an impact driver when I used these things before so I'm not sure, but it might be a good option if you have one available since the driver's hammer action might give you a little better odds. Just make sure the extractor has a good grip before you try to turn it and press with a firm grip and pressure inward to keep it from just bouncing loose. Letting some penetrating oil soak in for maybe 10-15 minutes seems like a good idea but then clean the oil off where the extractor is trying to grab, hopefully that make sense.

I had assumed that was the case

Well if you have to run out of gas, the Jeep is the much better choice! My gauge is off also just not as badly as yours. When it hits 1/8 full I have learned the hard way it's time to fill up. And when I do fill up it goes about about 1/2" past the Full mark. I got a suggestion quite a while back to just fill it up then move the needle to back to "Full", but I have been afraid that might put me in worse shape!

If the float is working for you when you move it by hand, but not in the tank, perhaps the float is leaking?

There are a few on EBAY

Fun to see this!