AnotherOldJeepGuy

I had a similar scenario in an odometer in my car, the "works for the first few miles" issue, and for me it turned out to be a stepper motor in the odometer that was bad and quit as soon as it warmed up. I don't know what is in the MJ Odometer, so this might not apply, but it was my issue and a motor swap fixed the problem.

My turn signals sometimes stop working in hot weather. Also if I turn off AC, turn signals immediately start working! In one instance a few years back this was resolved when I got a new battery. Happened again yesterday so I checked voltage with engine still running, AC on, and battery voltage was around 14.5V. At the time I had not read this thread noting there are different flashers, so I did not know to try my hazards to see if they were acting the same. I just looked at NAPA for turn signal flasher relays, in case that's it, and found over 10 choices! The one or two noted as electronic, "I assume" are solid state so I get the difference there. But of the others there were still many and it's not just different brands. Some have 2 connector blades, some have 3, some have 2 with a pigtail! What the heck is going on here? Anyone have a particular favorite brand/part number they know is a good choice? Is solid state more reliable?

An expensive piece of plastic for sure. No extra charge for the broken mounting points though

Took a few days to get the time available to do it, but new (rebuilt warranty) starter installed, no problem starting now. When this one goes, unless it's a long life, I'll probably go with the AC Delco suggested by @Htchevyii and maybe be set for a while. It's only $69 at Rock Auto, I might just go ahead and buy one and be ready

That is correct, I went ahead and pulled the plastic cover and the + pigtail does indeed go to the Battery Terminal.

I have been avoiding the stock auto store cables because the pigtail cable gauge is way smaller, like maybe 75% smaller, than the OEM pigtail. I was thinking this went to the coil (I admit I didn't pull the electrical cover to confirm that thought since the plastic hold tabs are not in very good shape and figured they would break). But if this instead is a relay control signal, and since you already did it and without issue, I will probably give it a try.

Probably don't what it that bad..

I looked up by part number and it is a rebuilt from O'Reilly's (Ultima Starter - Remanufactured - R612453A). I purchased it in 2014, and I know for certain I have did at least 2 warranty swaps from that purchase, with another one on the way possibly. I'd like to get a better new positive cable, the one I put in last I had to cut the end off at the battery and get a bold on cable connection so I could add in the smaller cable to the coil (or at least I think that's where the smaller one goes). So I'd like to get one that had a preinstalled battery end cable connector and also the smaller cable to the coil pre-attached, but so far I have not found that.

Last June Jeep would not turn over, dead battery syndrome in most scenarios. But took battery to Napa and tester said the 500CCA battery was cranking out 778CCA. So I replaced the starter and everything was happy. Also put in new cables. Today appears to be a repeat. Started a little slow earlier today, then about an hour ago a lot slower, and now no crank. Battery reads around 12.5V. Hooked up my charger and set it on start, so +50A, still nothing. Will be taking the batter for another test shortly. Here's the rub. The exact same scenario happen maybe 10 years ago, and again the starter had crapped out over a day or two. If my current battery is still showing good, that means another starter in 11 months. Question to the group is, is it typical for a starter to just die over the course of a day or two? Is it typical for a start to work great for 11 months and then die? Is there something that might be causing this other than just a bad starter that I need to be fixing?

Oops, I guess I was thinking 4L for some reason. Don't see any on EBAY for 2.5L

Yeah, this is what I was referring to. I notice those are made to be usable with an impact driver. I didn't have an impact driver when I used these things before so I'm not sure, but it might be a good option if you have one available since the driver's hammer action might give you a little better odds. Just make sure the extractor has a good grip before you try to turn it and press with a firm grip and pressure inward to keep it from just bouncing loose. Letting some penetrating oil soak in for maybe 10-15 minutes seems like a good idea but then clean the oil off where the extractor is trying to grab, hopefully that make sense.

I had assumed that was the case

Well if you have to run out of gas, the Jeep is the much better choice! My gauge is off also just not as badly as yours. When it hits 1/8 full I have learned the hard way it's time to fill up. And when I do fill up it goes about about 1/2" past the Full mark. I got a suggestion quite a while back to just fill it up then move the needle to back to "Full", but I have been afraid that might put me in worse shape!

If the float is working for you when you move it by hand, but not in the tank, perhaps the float is leaking?

There are a few on EBAY

Fun to see this!

Never new my cigarette lighter was really meant for lighting up cigars .

With the TB out and locked down somehow to your workbench, you might try an easy out extractor tool. If it doesn't work it's at least a non-destructive first attempt. I also wonder if you follow @AZJeff's drilling procedure if it might loosen the stuck bolt just a hair and give the easy out a better chance? Good luck...

The rubber grommet in your circle "B" to me looks like the rubber grommet that in my picture, is actually in the hole in the firewall. I don't know what it looks like on the other side of the firewall. The hard plastic pipe continues from where yours stops at the washer tank, on to the connection at the airbox-to-throttle body airflow tunnel. Note that mine used to route above the airflow tunnel, but I rerouted it under to interfere less with opening the airbox to check the filter.

Does this help? https://www.ebay.com/itm/352217218801?itmmeta=01JVWX7SH5BKXZJA5FD90HF2Z3&hash=item5201c83ef1:g:GRMAAeSwN2JoLUqb https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=comanche+headlamp+bezel&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313

Success . Old blower out, new blower in, nice and quiet! I thought I was in trouble when I first applied power (switch ON but didn't start up the engine) cause air would only flow through the defrost vents, so I thought I broke a vacuum line. But on inspection I didn't see any breaks where I was working, then it dawned on me to start the engine to re-pull the vacuum, and then all was good. Whew! I decided to try it without disconnecting the coolant reservoir as @Salvagedcircuit suggested and sure enough the tank could be pulled out of the way enough to do the swap without disconnecting the hoses, nice! Now on to my car repair, the Jeep gets most of my attention, but the car gets some attention from time to time.

Do I detect a Rolling Stones reference?

Same Same

Oh, OK. I can see how that would get in the way. But, I don't have one of those things, whatever it is! Or if I do it's someplace else so one less obstacle, I can live with that .

Is this what you are referring to? I'm a little afraid to remove this nut without knowing what's on the other side and where it's going to go once I remove the nut. This is the only other thing I can see near the fan.