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AnotherOldJeepGuy

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Everything posted by AnotherOldJeepGuy

  1. New cable is in! Wow that was much harder than I even expected. Getting the cable routed into the cabin with the mounting bracket key lining up was many trial and errors. That thing can't be rotated once routed into the cabin so it's many trial and error attempts removing, rotating, and rerouting trying to hit the alignment. My last attempt got the key close enough that I could twist it a little and line it up. At that point one would have thought the snap on ring would be rotated correctly to line up and snap on pin, but no, still had to rotate it quite a bit. BUT it's in there. Shifting works but it's a little stiff, I am assuming this is because it is twisted some, and my hope is it "gets happy" after some use and shifts better. I'll post back if that happens, or not.
  2. Got the new one. Cable moves freely, the old one definitely does not. Seems promising! Install is gonna be Saturday morning, will post how it goes.
  3. CA1177 it is then! I do notice now that the cable is out, the column shifter does freely move to include all gear locations based on the pointer, so I am hoping that means that once the new cable is attached, all will be working as normal.
  4. Napa has two, anyone know if the more expensive one is really any better? https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_CA1177 ($111.99) https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6202428 ($78.99) I don't see any at Rock Auto. O'Reilly has the one that Napa sells for $111.99, but for $60.99, so I guess I can just get the "better" one from above for less then the "less better" one if I just buy it here. AutoZone also has the $111.99 one, for $61.49 here I'm also checking with the dealer to see if OEM is still available and the cost. Generally parts are not in their system for them to even look them up for 1990, but I sent the email anyway.
  5. I got the old one out. Took about a hour just to get the snap in clips under the dash loose cause I could not find any position that would let me use both hands! Eventually I used a zip tie to depress the clips was able to work it out of there. But putting the zip tie on one handed was not easy! In the old days I would have just had my feet on the ceiling and my head on the floor to get to this, but if I did that today my Jeep would just become my coffin and call it a day. Should go in much easier since I should not need 2 hands for that.
  6. I looked under the dash and can see that the cable connection is in plain sight. So I watched the video below and have talked myself into trying to do this after all. But I will try cleaning the transmission end first just because I am curious to see if that works. The guy in the video does suggesting making the length adjustment in the lowest gear rather than park. I would have though adjusting in park was the best. What do you folks do?
  7. I can manually move the transmission shifter arm at the transfer case to where park is, then at that point I can move the column shifter from Park to Reverse to Neutral (so the cable can "pull"), but I can't go the other way. That is, if I move the shifter from Neutral to Reverse to Park the shifter arm is not moved (so the cable can not "push"). So I guess something is slipping, and the only place I know of that is designed to slip id where the length adjustment is done. Guess 2 would then be that oil/grease has gotten in there. If that is the case, the question is can it be cleaned back to fully functional, or not?
  8. Well shoot! It's out again! I only got 3 months from the last fix. Luckily I was close to home and it was stuck in drive, so I was able to get back to the house. I will get under there again in the morning when it's not so hot and see if I can get it working again by readjusting. But I am supposing at this point I probably need a new assembly. I feel pretty comfortable with the area of parts I messed with before, but, I'm not feeling nearly as confident replacing the entire thing. So odds are if I can get it functional by adjustment I'll take it to the shop and let them do it. Digging around under the dash is just not something my old bones supports well.
  9. I replaced my stalk, but the cruise didn't get fixed in the process. However the other functions that were dead are now undead, and I should at least now know my stalk it not the issue. I don't know how far I'll dig into the cruise since I have lived without it, but thought I'd pass on what did get fixed, here's the details....
  10. I made it out on the road today, no cruise . But again, I wasn't really expecting it. When/If I continue working on the cruise, I'll document it in the other thread where my cruise control testing to this point is already there, or perhaps start a new one. This OP on it's own is a done deal!
  11. I just changed my title from "Wiper Stuck in Intermittent - Long Delay (1990)" to "Wiper Stuck in Intermittent - Long Delay (1990) - Fixed". Then it occurred to me, does changing a title break the follow feature? So I am asking.
  12. Success so far. And it is true there are no tools required. In my case the old one came out in three pieces so a pretty good sign it was time for it to be retired! I have noticed the same thing noted by @pizzaman09, this replacement is a bit "tight" in the controls, but, they work. Well, I have not tried cruise yet, but I am not really expecting this to fix that problem (my debug steps to this point here), but if it does, I won't complain. Because of this untested function I have not even considered routing the cruise wire through the column yet. Old One in pieces. New One Something to note for the purist, this replacement is annoyingly longer than the original. The view to the driver with my stock steering wheel hides some of the wiper control text, and 100% of the cruise control text. So if this visual is important to you, you might want to search for a different new stalk. The distance in red is 3 7/16" on the replacement, on the original this distance is 2 11/16.
  13. If this is still holding up, please drop in pictures! If not, has a new solution taken it's place?
  14. Bummer. I put in my new one in November, I guess I'll be watching for recommendations to make it last.....
  15. I prefer Napa as well, the folks at my local Napa are great. There is a catch though. For the case where the exact part is sold by Napa and Autozone, Napa is more expensive and in some cases a lot more expensive . No Advanced Auto close enough for this comparison. Then of course, there's always Rock Auto when you are not in a hurry....
  16. According to Amazon, my new wiper stalk comes in today. And for future reference... I watched this very short video just now on the replacement. https://youtu.be/FWTulWanhdI?si=tFN9TFJeu_N63yFh
  17. Great, doesn't look too difficult, I'll put it on the list!
  18. Any good write-up on the restoration you happen know of, especially ones with good pictures?
  19. Just to clarify, when I say loose, I am referring to the rotational movement that sets the various different wiper settings. The detents seem to be very worn. The connection of the stalk to the column feels normal and things like turn signals and high beam control still work. Of course the proof remains to be seen when I attempt to install a new stalk.
  20. Well @Pete M, I hope you are wrong! But my stalk is very lousy-goosy so it won't be a bad thing to swap it anyway, just hoping I get lucky and that's all I need to do.
  21. I am planning to just pull out the wiper fuse in the mean time to keep the wipers from running unless I need them. Seems like an OK plan as long as I don't find an immediate downpour with no warning.
  22. A couple weeks ago my intermittent setting pickup up a quirk, that is when I switched into intermittent, instead of 1 swipe first, I got 2 or 3, but from that point it worked normally. I didn't care much since other than a couple extra swipes all was good. Yesterday I turned on the wipers, and now I can't turn them off other than putting the key in the off position. They seem to be stuck in the intermittent position and it appears with the long delay setting. I suppose it could also be that they are not actually in the intermittent position, but are emulating that setting. Either way, they are always on. The washer activation seems to still work normally. My control stalk feels like it is bad for sure, so I have ordered a replacement. (Link to other post) but I am starting this thread to specifically document this issue since I was not able to find it here. And if the new stalk fixes it, this will be a short thread (and that would be the outcome I prefer). I'll update once the new stalk gets here as to what that outcome is! My 1990 has the tilt column and cruise control. The switch I ordered is the one off Amazon that was posted here by @pizzaman09 in topic https://comancheclub.com/topic/74420-cruise-control-switchstalk-can't-find-one/#comments
  23. Thanks for that confirmation @ghetdjc320! I'll think about the rental so I can route the cable just in case someday I decide to try and debug the cruise also.
  24. I think my stalk is toast! Seems like I have read you just "pull the old one out" to the left and push in the new one. It is really that easy? Well, this doesn't include the work of routing the cruise wire, but since my cruise probably doesn't work anyway, that doesn't matter much.
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