AnotherOldJeepGuy

oops, sorry about that

I don't know for sure but I'll pay attention for a bit. What I have noticed is that sometimes when it shows up, if I log off and back on it hide's itself again. So that would kinda suggest it not strictly based on the number of pages.

I'll throw this in because it worked for me. When I was having some turn sig issues maybe as much as 10y back, I installed 2057 bulbs in the rear even though the manual calls for 1156 in the rear and 2057 in the front. The gremlins went away and they all worked correctly after doing this and have continued to do so. I don't know what the difference in the bulbs really is, or why I even tried this, but regardless it was successful.

Here in TX emission testing is no longer required for vehicles over 25. (IIRC I think there are a few TX cities that do require it but not where I live). [Oddly enough the state still collects the same annual fee, just discontinued the test, way to go politicians] I'm not sure I fully understand that last part, "Most people don't like the idea of the buildup of combustion by-product in parts of the 'clean' intake side of the engine", is that a Pro or Con to EGR Delete, sounds like it's a Con?

Great! If I decided to go this route I'll definitely give boxyjeep the order.

So sometime a summary block appears to the right, and sometimes it doesn't. What the heck? Is there a way to toggle it on/off?

OK got it. Does anyone know of an EGR Delete Kit?

I saw a video where the guy deleted the EGR. (He even mentioned CC in the video). He didn't say anything about the consequences of deleting this, but did note that reassembling was much easier with it deleted and it was easy to see why once me mentioned it. What is the downside to removing the EGR? Doesn't this mess with the ECU?

Cool!. I took a quick look on eBay, figured if they were out there eBay would know about it, didn't see any.

I see this type in some videos, the corrugated area seems to make sense to me, anyone using this type? Opinions?

Thanks, that's pretty good. I watched another one where they left the injectors in place but it was I think a 97 so it was similar but not exactly right.

Me too. I have started looking for good youtube videos on how to replace it.

More hunting no finding. I dosed it with water from the top and from the bottom, up in from the front and then from both sides, no noticeable change. Even with the new muffler it is still loud, very throaty, ahead of the muffler, somewhere. So it seems less and less likely this is a tighten something fix. So the ugly things I can think of are blown manifold gasket, cracked intake manifold, cracked exhaust manifold. I know the gasket is available, but if I screwed up either of the manifolds, are these things available anyplace other than the local junk yard that may or may not have one, or have a good one?

I would be glad to have a member volunteer to help! The last time I saw a Comanche other than mine in the wild around here has been quite a while. Years not months or weeks! But if there is someone around Plano TX, I'll welcome the help!

So, new muffler, which there was no doubt a need for since the old one was no longer connected. But, no change. If there was any doubt that it was a vacuum leak, I don't think there is now. I turned on the AC coming back from getting the muffler and 90% of the wind was coming out the defrost. I have patched the small line just outside the firewall that provides vacuum to the airflow control when this happens more than once. But that's a very small line and when it comes apart it doesn't have any noticeable effect on the engine, too small I assume, it just eliminated the airflow control until I patch it. Besides, I don't see any broken spot there now. I pulled off the line to the brake booster while idling and there was a lot of vacuum there for the few seconds the truck ran before stalling. No idea of any "number" to put on it, but there was plenty of air being sucked in. So there is a leak, I just can't hear it or find it. I'll be trying the water again once it cools down, and maybe I'll notice something now that it's a bit more quite with the new muffler, but I doubt it.

Well Midas says they won't honor my warranty! That sucks. But the muffler still needs fixed so I am going to the local muffler shop instead. I did take a shot at AI and asked if the broken pipe would cause vacuum issue, since my interpretation was that if the bolts at the manifold end being loose could, then an open pipe at the other end would cause the same thing. AI says it will NOT! Bummer, I am less optimistic now my full issue will be fixed by fixing this.

VIN Decoder says this, if that is helpful..

Heading to Midas sometime today, will post back if this restores my smooth idle...

I was thinking it was #24 because it has a round edge, and there's a hole in it where I assumed the started was inserted. But I do note if the picture is top/bottom correct, #22 would be the one at the bottom. Hmm. Anyhoo, I need to resolve my "Mayday" post before worrying about this...

I am cautiously optimistic I found my problem. It never occurred to me that a broken pipe at the muffler would cause the engine to idle rough, to stall, or to cause the power brakes to no longer be powered, but now that I see it, this pipe does go directly up to the engine where the suspicious bolts that tend to work loose are. Pipe broken loose from front of muffler. My muffler has been shot (from a sound perspective) for quite a while which is why I didn't really look here first just from the sound. If I am lucky I can even get this fixed for free, but I won't hold my breath. I bought this muffler from Midas about 20 years ago and I purchased the lifetime warranty. But, when I went to Midas a year ago to ask for a new one the desk person said "Lifetime warranty, we don't do that". So it may be a loosing battle getting it replaced under warranty. But if this revives my truck I am happy to pay for a new muffler. I did manage to snug up bolts so that was a contributor as well.

Spraying water has helped in the past, but this time I have not heard any reaction. I sprayed from a hand held spray bottle, I guess I could try the hose and get a bit more volume just in case I didn't spray enough.

Good thoughts and it does sound a lot like it did the time I forgot to reconnect the map sensor hose, but it's connected. And I can see the EGR shaft going in and out so not stuck. No hissing I can hear.

Never mind the wishful thinking diagnosis. After listening to both several times back to back, there's not that much difference. I reset the ECU again just in case no real change. Reconnected the line to the brake booster and there really isn't much difference. I'll still try again to check the bolts at the manifold but my gut tells me that's not going to do it (like the manifold in leaking, but not because a bolt is loose)

OK, I think this will work. Original After removing brake from vacuum

Well as you can see, my attemp to upload failed.