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Project: Slippery Slope – a ’91 MJ runner


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I needed a truck … I considered going the last of the real Ford Ranger route or even a first or second gen Dakota. But my Comanche roots run too deep.

 

I was surprised that after a couple hours of looking with the eye to buy, I found an almost all original 85K ’91 MJ Pioneer SB 2WD AW4 column shift non-AC, Silver Star Metallic with Sand interior truck. Only things added that were not off the assembly line: an XJ wood grain dash overlay & switch pod, cherry wood Jeep logo’d steering wheel, 8-ball shifter knob and newer XJ Ecco wheels. The MJ was repainted 9 years back and although the body paint is still sharp, the fender flares need a repaint. Rear bumper is slightly twisted, but I’ll get that straightened out – and then add a few bells and whistles to make this MJ mine. The camper shell will be tossed before I even pull into the driveway.

 

I’ll post pics as I go, but it won’t be a crazy attention to detail build. It can’t be. I need a truck I can actually use. It’ll be a clean runner. Plus, I still need to finish up my stroker MJ some day.

 

Time to get behind the wheel and drive it 9 hours back home.

 

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The MJ gets an updated look— 235/75 BFG’s, era appropriate steelies, and gone is is the hideous camper shell. 

 

Slippery Slope has parts incoming daily but majority of the work in progress will happen Spring time. Though there will be improvements along the way. The first back to normal that needs to happen has to do with the vintage aftermarket radio. Only when the headlights are on and you turn the truck off/ pull the key out the radio stays powered. The only way to turn that radio off is — turn the lights on and then off. Can’t imagine what’s going on and guessing a relay may be involved… But, if headlights, radio turns off as it should. 

 

NOS over the rail bed liner to be dropped in next, after clean up from the camper shell top of bedsides. 

 

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Many thanks Mike (FiatSlug) for the short bed bodyside molding. After 2 days of soaking the dried out mounting tape with GooGone, the fun of scraping it off with a plastic blade begins. Once all is off, I'll thoroughly scrub and reapply the new VHB tape. 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, my intention was to run this MJ for the most part as it was – aside from rims/tires, thermostat replacement and dual diaphragm brake booster upgrade (coming)… but I spend the weekend digging through my part shed because I just can’t leave things alone. Doing the usual parts replacements/ upgrades and then saying goodbye to the tan interior for black (from bench to buckets). Probably won’t get started on the big stuff until Spring, but the little things I’ll get done as I can. Slippery slope.

 

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I wanted to see how the floor pans of this MJ were as I smelled a bit of musty. Removed majority of the interior panel and lifted the carpet both sides, and fortunately they're solid...but the insulation under the carpet was soaked. Either the windshield (which is the original Safeguard) is leaking and/or the HVAC box seal at the cowl has given up. Will see.

 

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Also removed the aftermarket under hood insulation and added 3 power lines to the PDC and ran them into the cab for later installs.

 

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Finally, pulled down the headliner which has been recovered but zero damage to the fiberboard. Lucky day.

 

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I pulled from storage the '87 XJ black Mesa fabric seats I picked up on one of my many parts runs across the US for this project. They need a good cleaning, but are in great shape.

 

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Also in the audio realm, I'll be running the same (amplified) factory radio as in my other Comanche project. Polished off the AMC logo and added 'Jeep'.

 

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Way back when I had my '89 Comanche in final stage of primer, block sanding in the long down hill driveway behind the condo lived in, when all of a sudden the parking brake released itself. Truck wasn't in gear (5-spd), and I was on the passenger side sanding away. Fortunately the drivers door was open as the truck began to haul down hill towards a cinderblock wall. I managed to catch up/ jump in the cab and kick the ebrake down. It was one of the moments where you knew things were either going to go well or will end in a spectacular fail with lots of damage. Since then, I dislike the Comanche ebrake -- NOS or otherwise, just don't trust it. So all my trucks get the XJ hand brake. Cut away at the floorboard yesterday after I marked things off with an XJ template I've had forever.

 

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I'm guessing the dent on the transmission hump happened back at the Toledo factory at time of production, at install of awkward/ heavy bench seat. I needed to get things back to straight there so ebrake gasket would seal properly, but here is the before shot...

 

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5 hours ago, Gjeep said:

...I'm guessing the dent on the transmission hump happened back at the Toledo factory...

 

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I've had a bench seat truck that had this same dent. I assumed the same thing!

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I run the Rockford Punch 4 channel amp in all my Jeeps…it’s compact/ fits anywhere and sounds just right when you dial it in. This MJ gets one too, and I’m mounting it in the carry-over Renix ECU under dash bracket that is unused in the High Output years. I chose to bend that bracket just under an inch to make it straight. Both the DEI alarm and this amp will be mounted to this location back to back. One of the benefits of this amp from my perspective is they use off the shelf Molex connectors, so I can easily make an OEM Jeep radio connector harness from the back of the radio right into this amp; and another on the output side to the new speaker wires. (They do include connectors with this amp that are universal but similar.) And since I’ve created this cab harness, I’m sure to include all the other accessory wiring I’ll need in for my add-in’s... cargo light, tailgate electric lock, and ebrake warning light tab.

 

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Removed everything hanging off the doors inside and out readying for the full window install. All sorts of fun drilling out the rivets that hold on window regulators and other things attached to the inner door. Also found a local, low mileage front axle off a 98 XJ that met an early demise. I prefer the unit bearings on the 2wd, makes things easier for me in the world of maintenance and service as now the same as all the others. Onward…

 

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Wiring adventures – added the IPF headlight harness upgrade, overhead console, and several other battery/ accessory taps within the fuse panel. Terminals for both the tap and fuse panel/ connectors are available online and keep the appearance of things factory.

 

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As for getting the overhead console wiring in, it always takes a little bit as I strip out the XJ keyless related wires and use an era appropriate connector when assembling across the dash wiring. Also, while I’m in there playing with wires and connectors, I make sure to go through the high draw components to see if any of the housings are melted or melting.

 

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I decided to go with a 200 amp Mean Green alternator to keep things charged up, and with that, needed to notch the factory bracket for clearance.

 

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Also, I continued my search for damaged electrical connectors (and found) the fan high-low switch connector was cooked – and replaced that.

 

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Lastly, I replaced the R12 cut-off connector under the hood in preparation for AC install with the later ’94.5-’96 XJ connector. Instead of installing this vehicle year HVAC set up, I upgrade to the later years r134 specific set up. Have had good luck with this set up in the past.

 

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Key Parts parts installed – new set of repop taillights and linkage bumper set. As always, I try to avoid installing with rivets, so a stainless steel truss screw was used instead.

 

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This MJ will also get a power actuated tailgate lock similar to my other MJ tied into the power door lock wiring. The wiring isn’t as pretty as in my other MJ as I am constantly reminding myself to keep the focus of this build as a runner – an MJ to be used.

 

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Full window upgrade installed and working. 97+ XJ door handles were installed as I like the look of them over the original. New door to body bumpers and various plugs installed, in addition to fresh door lock cylinders to replace the brittle factory installs.

 

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And finally, the floorboard was POR15'd for a long and rust free life.

 

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