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anyone make a relay pack for the hvac/blower yet?


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just like the headlights, the hvac wiring leaves much to be desired.  melted connectors abound. :(  has anyone invented a fix yet to take the load off the factory stuff?  or are we still just stuck with stock replacement and finger crossing?  :crossfingers:

 

 

96FanSpeedSwitchConnector.jpg

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Back when I frequented junk yards a few years ago, I always checked these harnesses from XJ/MJ to XJ/MJ to try to nabb a good one.  Seemed 99% showed signs of heat damage, and most were shockingly significant.  I finally ran across a good one and snipped that bad boy off and kept it.   It's a back up, kept safely in a baggie with extra fuses. bulbs, etc in my glove box.    

 

Yea, we need to relay this circuit for sure.  Keeping an eye out for updates on this, Pete.  

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7 hours ago, Pete M said:

also does anyone have a link to the replacement behind the hvac panel?  my searches are being overwhelmed with the resistor pack ones and my brain is sick of looking. :pcwhack:

Are you talking about just the replacement connector? 
There was a member selling these. 

 

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I did the relay setup for the pass door power locks, so easy and just a great mod. I have thought about doing the same for the passenger power window. Would like to see someone tackle this. That said, wouldn't doing all of Cruiser's tips help keep this and other switches a good bit more reliable/safer? The extra step certainly would make sense for a high draw item such as the HVAC though. 

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I need to redo my power locks. It acts weird. Using the drivers side switch, it acts sluggish and slow. Passenger side will go all day with no fault unlocking and locking both sides. 

 

That being said, I keep trying to come up with a way to set up a relay pack to take the load off the switch. 

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A relay set-up would be great.

I believe the draw of the blower motor and a few other power suckers are likely culprits in toasting the heater control connector along with the brown wire at the ignition switch. 

I think Renix are worse simply because their ground circuit for the blower motor is long and under sized. Simple fix. And the fact that the blower speed increases as a result of the fix in my Tips kinda supports this. Click the link below for a more thorough explanation of the circuitry and a super simple fix.   http://cruiser54.com/?p=211

 

This is one of those fixes to do "just cuz" fixes. Get ahead of the curve!!!!

 

 

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5 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said:

Is this more of a Renix issue? Never seen this on the HO’s. 

The connector on my 91 XJ was toast and needed replaced, so it happens.  Maybe less often, IDK? :dunno:

 

I still have the connectors/terminals/pigtails available.  Just updated the post in the vendors section.

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I think a relatively easy upgrade is using a relay just for the high speed fan setting.  I've seen vehicles setup like this from the factory (not XJs/MJs).  

 

I don't recall where I got this circuit diagram from, it's not my work, nor have I done the mod.  But looks pretty straight forward, and takes the load off the switch on high speed.

XJ heater fan add relay.jpg

 

EDIT: I reviewed the FSM for wiring the fan switch, and it looks like the green wire is indeed the high speed wire.  Also looks like the most burnt in Pete's picture.  The wire colors did change over the years, so confirm if doing the mod.

XJ blower switch circuit.png

IMG_6791.jpg

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13 hours ago, eaglescout526 said:

I need to redo my power locks. It acts weird. Using the drivers side switch, it acts sluggish and slow. Passenger side will go all day with no fault unlocking and locking both sides. 

 

That being said, I keep trying to come up with a way to set up a relay pack to take the load off the switch. 

 

That's opposite of the normal issue that I seem to always hear about, i.e. the pass door is usually the one with sluggish locks due to voltage drop. Very interesting that you have the problem on the driver side. I have meant to post a write up on doing this. I found it on NAXJA I believe, and the description was abbreviated and geared towards someone who knows a little bit about wiring etc so I struggled a bit until I figured it out. It's actually so easy it almost makes it confusing.......if that even makes sense LOL. If I get to doing the write up I plan on dumbing it down to my level which means anybody can do it. 

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33 minutes ago, WahooSteeler said:

 

That's opposite of the normal issue that I seem to always hear about, i.e. the pass door is usually the one with sluggish locks due to voltage drop. Very interesting that you have the problem on the driver side. I have meant to post a write up on doing this. I found it on NAXJA I believe, and the description was abbreviated and geared towards someone who knows a little bit about wiring etc so I struggled a bit until I figured it out. It's actually so easy it almost makes it confusing.......if that even makes sense LOL. If I get to doing the write up I plan on dumbing it down to my level which means anybody can do it. 

Yeah I haven’t the foggiest idea why it is like it. I I think I wired up my relays wrong and need to change that. But I think my latch mechanism also is a foul member there too as locking and unlocking it by hand before power locks was a challenge. I’ve lubed the hell out of it and I think I just need to take it out and let it soak in some cleaner. 

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The reason the passenger door lock works but the driver's door lock doesn't is the screwy wiring of the lock mechanism.  The power goes through the driver's door switch across the cab harness to the passenger's door switch.  Then the power goes to the locking mechanisms, both the passenger's and then back to the drive's doors.

 

So, the power to unlock the driver's door travels across the cab and back to unlock the door.  Over 30+ years, the resistance has taken its toll.

 

I found a write up on installing dual relays to control the locks.  I will search for it tonight.

 

Edit: 

 

Found it - https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/90-xj-power-door-locks-don-t-work-620297/

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