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Posted

My door hinge pins on the drivers side are very sloppy.

The pins are .247" and 0.249". Assuming they were exactly 1/4" new, they have seen very little wear.

Unfortunately I seem to have no bushings whatsoever.

What is the recommended fix for this problem?

Posted

Did you weld the top of the roll pins? Whats stops them from working out? Seems like roll pins would be a lot weaker than the solid stock pins.

Posted

Mine had roll pins stock... they shouldn't work themselves out.  Bigger question is how do you intend to drill out the chassis-side to install a bushing?  

 

Posted

Roll pins, being hollow, just don't seem as strong to me. I'm sure they are fine but I'm surprised they came stock.

I will use a 90 degree drill, and if needed a stubby bit.

Posted
2 hours ago, MJCARENA said:

The previous owner of my F150 did this to fix the hinge. Very strong and no play.

I thought it was funny when I noticed it.

 

 

IMG_20200911_095951123.jpg

It's defiantly strong enough. :laugh:

Posted
54 minutes ago, MancheKid86 said:

 

thats exactly what i used, they work great.

Awesome! Looking forward to installing them.

Posted

Installed them today. Did not require a 90 degree drill or stubby drill bit. I used my M12 Milwaukee impact driver and a standard 5/16 bit.

Went smoothly and they work great!

Posted
37 minutes ago, rokinn said:

Thanks, just placed an order myself.  :waving:

You're welcome, I'm sure you'll like them. If your not replaceing the stock hinge pins, just makes sure they are still about 1/4" so they fit the ID of the bushings well.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 9/17/2020 at 12:04 PM, EUREKA said:

You're welcome, I'm sure you'll like them. If your not replaceing the stock hinge pins, just makes sure they are still about 1/4" so they fit the ID of the bushings well.

Got mine finished on Monday.  They work great.  Closes like new.  I tried doing this job this summer to limited success.  Stripped out the bottom torx bolt and had to cut it off.  Also had to cut the lower roll pin.   Wasn't coming out for love nor money.   Luckily I had other hinges from a couple of doors I had.  All that and the body side of the hinges were wallowed out and didn't create tight fit but better.  I just left it.  Getting the door off this time was a piece of cake.  I had new roll pins as well as 1/4" bolts.  Slipped a bolt in a hinge and a roll pin in the other and decided the roll pins created a better fit.  I open and close it now every time I walk by just for fun.  :wink:  Thanks again, :beerchug:

Posted
2 hours ago, rokinn said:

Got mine finished on Monday.  They work great.  Closes like new.  I tried doing this job this summer to limited success.  Stripped out the bottom torx bolt and had to cut it off.  Also had to cut the lower roll pin.   Wasn't coming out for love nor money.   Luckily I had other hinges from a couple of doors I had.  All that and the body side of the hinges were wallowed out and didn't create tight fit but better.  I just left it.  Getting the door off this time was a piece of cake.  I had new roll pins as well as 1/4" bolts.  Slipped a bolt in a hinge and a roll pin in the other and decided the roll pins created a better fit.  I open and close it now every time I walk by just for fun.  :wink:  Thanks again, :beerchug:

Glad it worked for you!

  • 10 months later...
  • 3 years later...
Posted

Just did this job today on my '87 MJ.  Drilled out the body side to 5/16" with a nice sharp bit (drilled 9/32" first, then 5/16" (was worried they might be loose after drilling instead of reaming.. but the bushings still had to be driven in, so I guess it was close enough).  Cordless DeWalt drill was used, no issues fitting the drill between the hinges. Used Hillman bronze bearings (available at most hardware stores).  1/4" ID, 5/16" OD, 3/4" long.  $3.50 ea, so $14 per door.  Cut 0.25" off each bushing, and installed two in each hinge. The hinges are 1" thick.  Put in new 1/4" x 2" roll pins (ideal is 2.25" long, but 2" I think is fine).  I also put a thin brass washer between the hinge parts to take some of the thrust load, they were pretty thin, forgot to measure them, but probably 0.020"?  ZERO play now.  Very satisfied on how they came out so far.  I would have liked to try out the PN 8211 K&S metals brass tube, as it's only about $5/ft, but none of my local hardware stores had that PN in stock.  Maybe if I have to do my passenger's door someday I'll try that out. 

 

image.png.8b4bcb86793d439d37e6e349c613ab6d.png

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