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1991 Eliminator Resto-Mod


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And into the audio side. @Minuit, I know you’ve been curious what I am planning on doing. Honestly I’ve been pretty curious myself. So many challenges in car audio vs integrated home or commercial audio. A few goals I’m trying to stick with:

1. Keep as much cargo space as possible behind the seat (if I get a good bed cover I may nix this idea but for now I need covered space). 
2. Keep it clean and away from the eyes of thieves. 
 

With these goals in mind, the stock speaker layout does keep cargo space and a clean look but the location of the B pillar 4x6 speakers is marginal at best. High frequencies will be muffled by the seats and cargo behind them. Ideally I would match front and rear speaker sizes and keep them timbre matched. My Sony head unit does a decent job of powering some high sensitivity speakers and I’m not looking to win a DB contest. Also, quieting down the truck is a top goal but this isn’t a Mercedes and there is only so far I can go. So getting some high end of Focals or Morrels in there will be a bit of a waste since any road noise will make it difficult to discern the sound quality difference. 
I’m a bit picky about symmetry and keeping all components branded the same but really, the only things that matters is the quality of each individual component and that the midrange and tweeters be timbre matched. 
That being said, I’m considering two courses: 1. Simply adding a decent low profile powered sub and keeping all stock speaker locations. This would give me the most cargo room and be cost effective. 
2. Custom building the back panel and adding in the speaker config I am looking for (4) 5.25-6.5 components and (2) 8-10” subs

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In measuring the stock speaker grill sizes for the doors and b pillars I noticed they were pretty much the same size. I also have the lower dash piece from a later model Cherokee with the lower dash tweeter grills. Although they are not directed toward the listener well, they are in a relatively close position to the woofer to provide good imaging. So my latest thought is upgrading the b pillars to 5.25” coaxial (or possibly components with the right tweeter installation) speakers and components up front in the stock locations. Sound isolation and dampening will be the key along with a good amp. 

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21 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said:

On another note, just ordered up new ball joints, artec gussets for the inner C’s, Gibson ceramic coated header and a whole wire braiding kit to get the under hood detailed and organized. Also ordered an arb OBA kit I’m looking forward to installing. 

 

I mounted the ARB single compressor to drivers side backside of bumper on Daughter's 01 XJ.

 

Also doing Artec C gussets & lower control arm mount on new HP30 for Eliminator.  

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14 minutes ago, Red Mistress said:

 

I mounted the ARB single compressor to drivers side backside of bumper on Daughter's 01 XJ.

 

Also doing Artec C gussets & lower control arm mount on new HP30 for Eliminator.  

Good info! Since I run the cowl intake, I have plenty of room where the old air box was. Been thinking possibly going with either a psc external reservoir pump or put my air compressor in that area. I’m going to check also on the TJ air compressor mount from MORE. It mounts over the intake manifold. If there is enough room between there and the hood, it’s not a bad spot. I’m running the arb twin setup and planning to mount a tank also for air tools and tires. 

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Yea no air box opens up lots room.

Behind the bumper was only spot I could find on 01 XJ.  

Just added so she doesn't have go to gas station to fill tires when she goes off to college.

 

Just got Revolution 5:38's for my LJ.  Wish RCV made different color boots besides orange.

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2 minutes ago, Red Mistress said:

Yea no air box opens up lots room.

Behind the bumper was only spot I could find on 01 XJ.  

Just added so she doesn't have go to gas station to fill tires when she goes off to college.

 

Just got Revolution 5:38's for my LJ.  Wish RCV made different color boots besides orange.

Any reason you went with RCV’s over the revolution 1350 shaft kit? I’ve been tossing that idea around as well

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These were NOS black trim taillights that I had purchased and decided to have a body ship shoot them with clear right out of the box. Suffice it to say, they are morons a shot way to thick of a coat on it. I’ve been very apprehensive about how to going about fixing this abomination. These lights are 100% new under this stupid clear coat job. Last pic is striper laid out over the leftover black paint the PO used. This was originally on the entire truck before I blasted it all off. The bed was never prepped so this was never removed. 
 

Beware: the following contains graphic content which some users may find disturbing:

 

 

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51 minutes ago, Pete M said:

ouch :( 

Took a lot of patient clean up work to get that clear out of those corners. A dremel, rubbing compound, razor blade, reducer and fine sand papers finally got it all cleaned up. Will hit it with a bit of 400 and work up to 1500 before the respray. I think it should come out good. The drivers side is not bad. A bit thick on the clear but no cracking or pooling. That side will get a good sanding and polish. 

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5 hours ago, 89 MJ said:

I don’t think the Napier flares would look good body color. I do love body colored Notch flares though. 

Agreed. I saw a Tacoma here with painted flares that are a similar style to the Napier’s and I wasn’t to keen on them. I’ll consider the Notch ones but for now will leave my Napier’s in the original finish.

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3 hours ago, fiatslug87 said:

Nice:L:, something most of us have never seen. Is that some kind of adhesive/seam sealer holding the panels together in the center?

Yep, I put most of the info on the thread in the mod section. I used ultra black rtv to keep the panels from vibrating and provide some adhesion. It’s always nice to know it’s back together right and won’t rust anytime soon. Pretty stoked to have a super straight tailgate too 

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And here is that trouble tail light that the body shop shot way too heavy a coat of clear on. I think I must have spent 10 or so hours restoring it but it came out like new. Dremel, acetone, razor blade, sandpaper and polish. Shot 8 thin coats of clear and burned them in a bit with some reducer. 

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