ghetdjc320 Posted September 30, 2021 Author Share Posted September 30, 2021 Progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted October 2, 2021 Author Share Posted October 2, 2021 Second and third coats of chasis coating are now done. Working on installing the Addco rear sway bar now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted October 2, 2021 Author Share Posted October 2, 2021 Had to extend the end links on the sway bar. They sent me two identical sets that were too short so I extended and welded additional length into each one. The links are made from a long grade 3 bolt and L-56 mig wire has nearly the exact same tensile strength and yield. gave it several passes and it’s quite solid. Plus it’s just the rear sway bar so it doesn’t need to be bulletproof. Next I removed the remnant of 30 year old bumper bolts from the frame and retapped all the threads. Tried drilling them out but after going through 5 cobalt drill bits I had to finally blow them out with the plasma torch. Next time I’m going to start with the plasma torch. They were completely fused to the threaded hole on the frame. Also sprayed the entire inner frame as well as the leaf springs with fluid film black. I have a shutz gun specifically for this stuff along with a couple of 360* wand extensions for reaching down in through the frame rails. Hopefully I can get another 30 years out of this before having to deal with any more rust again. But I’m pleased with the end result. All rust has been eliminated and the entire frame have been coated with DOM16. Any bad body seams have been repaired are resealed for zero water intrusion. Doing some custom work as well which I’ll post when I finish this up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted October 4, 2021 Author Share Posted October 4, 2021 Finished the rear suspension this morning. Cutoff the old shock tabs which were welded very poorly and we’re barely holding on. Put on some new Ruffstuff curved tabs for better clearance and strength. Finished extending the sway bar links and getting everything dialed in. Note the sway bar is sitting a bit high at the moment but that’s because the bed isn’t on the truck. Once the bed, tailgate, hilift, tonneau cover etc. is all bolted back on the sway bar sits level with the leaf spring. The bottom of the old shock tabs were welded to the axle so water could not escape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted October 4, 2021 Author Share Posted October 4, 2021 Refinished the truss and welded it in place. Also welded in some new flange nuts to replace the old stripped out frame nits for the bumper. Turning out excellent. Sanded down the whole back of the cab then prepped it with some mineral spirits in preparation for a coat of epoxy primer. After epoxy priming I’ll use some kitty hair resin filler to smooth out and metal work. Next will be a thin coat of Rage to smooth out any imperfection. Block sanding and then some 400 grit in preparation for 3 coats of base and 5 coats of clear. I’m using the door opening as my blend edge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howeitsdone Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 Come to the mainland and do mine next Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted October 4, 2021 Author Share Posted October 4, 2021 6 hours ago, PocketsEmptied said: Come to the mainland and do mine next Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted October 5, 2021 Author Share Posted October 5, 2021 Just finished all the heavy sanding and epoxy primed all the bare metal surfaces. I feel like pointing out that bondo or any other plastic fillers should not be applied directly to bare metal and especially not over any weld joints. That is just asking for rust. Over welded/repaired metal it should go: Bare metal (I use weld through copper primer under any overlap joints), epoxy primer, fiberglass stranded filler, plastic filler, epoxy primer, base/clear or singla stage. I tracked down so much fine surface rust just hiding out on the sheet metal especially under the rear window frame. Also, there should be no paint between the window frame and the window. The epoxy primer bonds excellently to the bare metal then you can lay your urethane window adhesive right on that epoxy primer once it cures. There should be paint under the window trim though, just not inside the frame itself. Factory doesn’t do it this way since it would take a lot longer but is definitely worth it. On my other MJ I’m going to start with a full tear down and media blast or dip the entire body/uniframe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted October 7, 2021 Author Share Posted October 7, 2021 2 coats of Evercoat Fiber Tech over the welds. Followed by a couple coats of Rage filler. One final coat of epoxy primer to seal then in to base/clear. It has been raining here non stop for over a week so it’s slow going. Tape doesn’t want to stick among other troubles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted October 7, 2021 Author Share Posted October 7, 2021 Two applications of fiber tech were applied to really get into any little nooks and crannies that are left over from the sheet metal work. Once it fully cured, I hit it with 80 grit and moved to the Rage filler. Took two coats for all of it and 4 total coats in some areas once the skim and touch ups were all done and feathered in. Lots of sanding especially block sanding to smooth out any imperfections. Took extra time on the backs of the b pillars and the blend lines to really smooth them all out. DA sanded it all in 220 to feather out. Tomorrow will be a final sanding with block then 220 DA followed by 2 coats of epoxy primer/sealer. Tape lines will be redone then it’s on the the final prep before base/clear. 3 coats of base and 5 clear so I can sand off the top coat for a perfect finish. How to have the bed back on over the weekend then complete the interior. Picked up some new ACC carpet without mass backing. That mass backing just crumbs and flakes all over the place plus it stinks if the floor is hot after a lot of stop and go traffic. Have a new cargo light going on also which is a custom LED unit. I’ll move into the front end after the interior is done and install the metal cloak 6” springs I picked up. Also need to install my transgo shift kit. Lots of work but definitely feels like I’m on the home stretch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiNi Beast Posted October 7, 2021 Share Posted October 7, 2021 Always on the home stretch if working on it at home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted October 7, 2021 Author Share Posted October 7, 2021 8 hours ago, MiNi Beast said: Always on the home stretch if working on it at home. I suppose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted October 9, 2021 Author Share Posted October 9, 2021 Did a final coat of epoxy over all the body work then 2 coats of sealer for good color uniformity. Got every little bump and bruise out if the rear cab. 3 coats of base are down now. Giving it a 30 min flash then tack it off and shoot 5 coats of clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted October 9, 2021 Author Share Posted October 9, 2021 At 2 coats of clear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted October 9, 2021 Author Share Posted October 9, 2021 All coats complete and rear window urethane in. It’s directly onto the epoxy primer as suggested with no paint or clear in the actual frame glue joint. Came out super nice. Will work on completing the interior tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howeitsdone Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 Making it sound easy! This is the next step in my process and I'm thinking I'll just let it take a year or two lol That color looks awesome too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 10, 2021 Share Posted October 10, 2021 ooooo, that's lookin' gooooooood... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted October 10, 2021 Author Share Posted October 10, 2021 12 hours ago, PocketsEmptied said: Making it sound easy! This is the next step in my process and I'm thinking I'll just let it take a year or two lol That color looks awesome too! Thanks. Yeah definitely worth taking the time to do it right. The color is Aston Martin Cinnabar Orange. It has a tiny bit of fine metallic flake but is mostly a pearl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted October 10, 2021 Author Share Posted October 10, 2021 16 minutes ago, Pete M said: ooooo, that's lookin' gooooooood... Been doing this work under a 10x20 canopy during monsoon season with tropical depressions every few days. Been slow going but I need to get it finished in a couple of days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted October 10, 2021 Author Share Posted October 10, 2021 New carpet all trimmed. Interior all buttoned up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted October 11, 2021 Author Share Posted October 11, 2021 Completed a lot of odds and ends today. Added an additional ground and replaced the splice near the tail light harness. Added my new cargo light setup. It’s absolutely awesome and super bright. Also looks very sleek. Has more light dispersion than the original cargo light did but that really comes in handy when using it more like a work light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted October 12, 2021 Author Share Posted October 12, 2021 Got some more accomplished. Started working on the front suspension and replaced the drivers side coils with some metal cloak 6” springs. Also replaced the coil isolators with new Moog rubber ones. Next I tackled the track bar and found quite a problem. I indeed had the same issue I have talked about on many occasions, wallowed out track bar axle side bolt hole. It’s seriously wallowed out. I’d say this accounts for a slight clunk I’d hear at times and some funky tire wear patterns up front. This is one of the ugly sides of extra unsprung weight (heavier axles, tires etc) So, out with the old setup. I had a new Iron Man Fab track bar system which has a double shear mount, adjustable bar with enduro joint and a frame cross brace to tie in the passenger frame rail. This is a massive improvement over the stock system. Also had the metal cloak dual rate springs and the Iron Man Fab steering system brace which ads a great deal of support to the steering system by bracing the steering box both above and below the pitman arm. It ties in both frame rails also and uses a pillow bearing for a super solid fit. My steering box is a stock unit that was rebuilt by PSC. It’s a very nice box and now with this setup it’s like rack and pinion steering, seriously, it’s super slick. Also nice change of pace to bolt on some mods vs all the restoration work. Unbelievably wallowed out track bar bolt hole. You can see the rear one is the correct size still. More weld work Nice new powder coated steel mod parts! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiNi Beast Posted October 13, 2021 Share Posted October 13, 2021 Nice. Ive been contemplating that trac bar setup. I like the added brace as i could definitely use it on my rig. Loving the color. Looks good 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted October 13, 2021 Author Share Posted October 13, 2021 Some pics of the bottom of the bed all prepped. Going back on today Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted October 13, 2021 Author Share Posted October 13, 2021 And the bed is back on. Gas tank strapped in also. Just need to get all the bolts back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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