87MJTIM Posted July 2, 2019 Posted July 2, 2019 Pretty steady. It was dropping but just 0.1 v every couple seconds. I left KO for 10 seconds
Ωhm Posted July 2, 2019 Posted July 2, 2019 Your wired according to the 88 Elect Manual schematic. That is IGN feed (YEL) to pin 1(30) and FP relay feed to 5(86). Do you have a ballast resistor?
Ωhm Posted July 2, 2019 Posted July 2, 2019 15 minutes ago, 87MJTIM said: The REM shows the O2 sensor moving up and down, but it will stay at or near one reading for long time spans: This show O2S has slow response time. Should flicker LEAN/RICH at the speed of light. 16 minutes ago, 87MJTIM said: Also, fuel trims will drop below 128. Less than 128 takes fuel away (decreased INJ PW time). O2 sensor see a RICH condition.
87MJTIM Posted July 2, 2019 Posted July 2, 2019 12 minutes ago, Ωhm said: Your wired according to the 88 Elect Manual schematic. That is IGN feed (YEL) to pin 1(30) and FP relay feed to 5(86). Do you have a ballast resistor? No. ‘87 didn’t include one
Ωhm Posted July 2, 2019 Posted July 2, 2019 Okay. They had a kit (fuel pump noise) out there where one could add a ballast resistor. This included the O2 heater relay update.
87MJTIM Posted July 2, 2019 Posted July 2, 2019 9 minutes ago, Ωhm said: This show O2S has slow response time. Should flicker LEAN/RICH at the speed of light. Less than 128 takes fuel away (decreased INJ PW time). O2 sensor see a RICH condition. I will switch the display to show R/L condition Yes, I know it means the ECU reading rich. Stuck open or leaking FI?
87MJTIM Posted July 2, 2019 Posted July 2, 2019 1 minute ago, Ωhm said: Okay. They had a kit out there where one could add a ballast resistor. This included the O2 heater relay update. Never installed. Original owner
Ωhm Posted July 2, 2019 Posted July 2, 2019 1 minute ago, 87MJTIM said: Stuck open or leaking FI? That a good starting point.
Ωhm Posted July 2, 2019 Posted July 2, 2019 39 minutes ago, 87MJTIM said: Never installed. Original owner No ballast OK. But I would suggest you swap the wires (1(30) with 5(86)) on your O2 Heater Relay. Currently your O2 heater circuit current flow through your IGN SW (12vdc/6ohms=2amps) with KEY ON. This 2amps is above everything else that flow through the IGN SW. One upon a time, when MS1700 was the tester of choice, vehicle would have failed and the fix was this swap. Also if ballast resistor was installed, part of the instructions was to include this swap. Suggestion only, feel free to ignore.
87MJTIM Posted July 2, 2019 Posted July 2, 2019 Was there a TSB for this? I have the service manuals.
Ωhm Posted July 2, 2019 Posted July 2, 2019 Don't know about TSB number. I.S. 32E is the Fuel Pump Noise number.
cruiser54 Posted July 3, 2019 Posted July 3, 2019 13 hours ago, Ωhm said: Don't know about TSB number. I.S. 32E is the Fuel Pump Noise number.
fiatslug87 Posted July 4, 2019 Author Posted July 4, 2019 Well, I just received a Bosch one. Looks identical to the new NTK: metal body, four wires out of the body and reads 4.5 ohms. I will try it and see but I'm not very hopeful. Edit: I checked resistance between A&B, 4.5 ohms just like the NTK, ended up just returning it. Interesting that both Bosch and NTK wete made in Spain, they must be from the same manufacture.
JMO413 Posted July 4, 2019 Posted July 4, 2019 On 7/2/2019 at 3:59 PM, Jeep Driver said: That's their old catalog picture. The new ones are meal body with 4 wires. I bought multiple Bosch and NGK trying to find ceramic one.
Jeep Driver Posted July 4, 2019 Posted July 4, 2019 1 hour ago, JMO413 said: That's their old catalog picture. The new ones are meal body with 4 wires. I bought multiple Bosch and NGK trying to find ceramic one. https://www.quadratec.com/products/917222_03.htm
fiatslug87 Posted July 5, 2019 Author Posted July 5, 2019 Thanks Jeep Driver, I'll try an OmixAda for the 4.0L. https://www.cseoffroad.com/1722216.html
Drahcir495 Posted July 6, 2019 Posted July 6, 2019 6 hours ago, fiatslug87 said: Thanks Jeep Driver, I'll try an OmixAda for the 4.0L. https://www.cseoffroad.com/1722216.html Let me know how that works out. I am getting ready to replace mine too
fiatslug87 Posted July 13, 2019 Author Posted July 13, 2019 Received the OmixAda yesterday, looks identical to the new NTK/Bosch, 4 wires, steel body and resistance is 4.4 just like those two. Not sure if I'm going to try it out or just return it.
SuperSwede Posted February 10, 2020 Posted February 10, 2020 On 7/3/2019 at 1:36 AM, Ωhm said: No ballast OK. But I would suggest you swap the wires (1(30) with 5(86)) on your O2 Heater Relay. Currently your O2 heater circuit current flow through your IGN SW (12vdc/6ohms=2amps) with KEY ON. This 2amps is above everything else that flow through the IGN SW. One upon a time, when MS1700 was the tester of choice, vehicle would have failed and the fix was this swap. Also if ballast resistor was installed, part of the instructions was to include this swap. Suggestion only, feel free to ignore. This explain the two swapped wires in my truck...found when searching for O2 sensor problems..
fiatslug87 Posted January 18, 2021 Author Posted January 18, 2021 Final update, found NOS Mopar sensor, everything runs perfectly.
Eagle_SX4 Posted February 23, 2024 Posted February 23, 2024 Has anyone tried a GM 3 wire oxygen sensor? I am trying to track down an O2 sensor issue and found that not many people have had luck with the new sensors. I started looking on Rock Auto for a GM vehicle with a 3 wire O2 sensor and found that from 92-94 the 4.3 V6 used a 3 wire sensor with a male weather pack connecter on it. Bosch #13077 or NTK #21003. They are much cheaper than the jeep ones and was wondering if I swapped the connector would it work?
Salvagedcircuit Posted February 23, 2024 Posted February 23, 2024 1 hour ago, Eagle_SX4 said: Has anyone tried a GM 3 wire oxygen sensor? I am trying to track down an O2 sensor issue and found that not many people have had luck with the new sensors. I started looking on Rock Auto for a GM vehicle with a 3 wire O2 sensor and found that from 92-94 the 4.3 V6 used a 3 wire sensor with a male weather pack connecter on it. Bosch #13077 or NTK #21003. They are much cheaper than the jeep ones and was wondering if I swapped the connector would it work? If you don't buy this, I probably should. looks genuine & correct. I don't know why there's grease on the tip but it looks right https://www.ebay.com/itm/155981924910
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