Suspension lift

[mancheflo]

Just got a 92 long bed and have 33x12.50 tires with a 15 inch rim, would a 3 inch lift give me enough room along with some fender trimming? 

[dvitha]

you will also need WJ LCA's So those tires don't rub, when you turn or spacers in front. If your just going for look and just street it will be tight. However if you want to off-road just a bit, I say you going to need a bit more than that. If the tires are true 33 inch tall to keep the factory movement you want 4 inch min. However I would say a 6 would be best.

 

Now if you go over 3 inch you need to look at the angle of your driveshaft, and look to correct it. is it 4x2 or 4x4? Also what is the diff gear ratio? Many things go in to just putting bigger tires on. if your 3.08 you turn it in to a straight up dog. also is it a 2.5 or 4.0? auto/manual? just a few question need to be asked to point you the right way.

 

with 33's and a 4.0 a 4.10 diff or better is needed. Also your brakes will be over the limits on stock. going from a largest jeep mj stock tire of 28.3 inch to 33 inch requires more than just a lift.

[Eagle]

9 hours ago, mancheflo said:

Just got a 92 long bed and have 33x12.50 tires with a 15 inch rim, would a 3 inch lift give me enough room along with some fender trimming? 

 

 

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

That truck is MUCH too nice to be cut into.

[gogmorgo]

What he said. Especially not a '92. 

[WahooSteeler]

x3 on don't cut up a 92 in that good of shape! I'd by it from you double what you paid before I'd let it get cut up!

[mancheflo]

8 hours ago, dvitha said:

you will also need WJ LCA's So those tires don't rub, when you turn or spacers in front. If your just going for look and just street it will be tight. However if you want to off-road just a bit, I say you going to need a bit more than that. If the tires are true 33 inch tall to keep the factory movement you want 4 inch min. However I would say a 6 would be best.

 

Now if you go over 3 inch you need to look at the angle of your driveshaft, and look to correct it. is it 4x2 or 4x4? Also what is the diff gear ratio? Many things go in to just putting bigger tires on. if your 3.08 you turn it in to a straight up dog. also is it a 2.5 or 4.0? auto/manual? just a few question need to be asked to point you the right way.

 

with 33's and a 4.0 a 4.10 diff or better is needed. Also your brakes will be over the limits on stock. going from a largest jeep mj stock tire of 28.3 inch to 33 inch requires more than just a lift.

I just got it Friday, I know it’s 4x4 and other than that it’s bone stock. I’m new to this whole building a Jeep I had a 96 Cherokee that was already built when I bought it but starting from stock is new to me. I do plan on upgrading my Dana 35 back axle but all the help I could get would be well worth it! 

[yxmj]

Trade the 33's for a equal set of 31's and you will not have to butcher your truck to run them......it will also be easier on you axles and tranny running that size tire....IMHO

[Eagle]

50 minutes ago, yxmj said:

Trade the 33's for a equal set of 31's and you will not have to butcher your truck to run them......it will also be easier on you axles and tranny running that size tire....IMHO

 

 

[mancheflo]

58 minutes ago, yxmj said:

Trade the 33's for a equal set of 31's and you will not have to butcher your truck to run them......it will also be easier on you axles and tranny running that size tire....IMHO

Well I just got the 33s so I’m going to run these, they’re more of a 32 though 

[dvitha]

your still going to rub when you do full turn. Drive before and after, you will notice it will drive much different. The jeeps I have that are 4.10 ratio we use 30x9.5r15. no rub and no lift needed. Wider and taller is when you notice things.

[DesertRat1991]

If you're resigned to butchering the truck then why stop at 33's?   Hell, you could run 35x12.5 with 3" lift and "some trimming."

 

R.i.P. clean '92.

[mancheflo]

What makes the 92s si special 

 

I’m completely new to the Comanches

 

 

[Tsalagi]

7 minutes ago, mancheflo said:

What makes the 92s si special 

The last year of manufacture. The fewest models made, etc.

[DesertRat1991]

7 minutes ago, Tsalagi said:

The last year of manufacture. The fewest models made, etc.

 

Plus HO motor and OBD1.

[mancheflo]

1 hour ago, DesertRat1991 said:

 

Plus HO motor and OBD1.

Okay I knew it was the last year of manufacturing but didn’t know many weren’t made

[mancheflo]

16 hours ago, dvitha said:

you will also need WJ LCA's So those tires don't rub, when you turn or spacers in front. If your just going for look and just street it will be tight. However if you want to off-road just a bit, I say you going to need a bit more than that. If the tires are true 33 inch tall to keep the factory movement you want 4 inch min. However I would say a 6 would be best.

 

Now if you go over 3 inch you need to look at the angle of your driveshaft, and look to correct it. is it 4x2 or 4x4? Also what is the diff gear ratio? Many things go in to just putting bigger tires on. if your 3.08 you turn it in to a straight up dog. also is it a 2.5 or 4.0? auto/manual? just a few question need to be asked to point you the right way.

 

with 33's and a 4.0 a 4.10 diff or better is needed. Also your brakes will be over the limits on stock. going from a largest jeep mj stock tire of 28.3 inch to 33 inch requires more than just a lift.

Also it’s a 4.0 auto 

[gogmorgo]

There were just under 1000 built in '92. How many are left is anyone's guess, but there are not many at all in the shape yours is in, that's pretty well a guarantee.

[mancheflo]

50 minutes ago, gogmorgo said:

There were just under 1000 built in '92. How many are left is anyone's guess, but there are not many at all in the shape yours is in, that's pretty well a guarantee.

It is pretty clean compared to the knee I’ve seen online for sale, just needs a new paint job and there’s a dent in the roof, other than that and the inside needs work just minor stuff it’s very clean, no rust 

[mancheflo]

9 hours ago, mancheflo said:

I just got it Friday, I know it’s 4x4 and other than that it’s bone stock. I’m new to this whole building a Jeep I had a 96 Cherokee that was already built when I bought it but starting from stock is new to me. I do plan on upgrading my Dana 35 back axle but all the help I could get would be well worth it! 

 

18 hours ago, dvitha said:

you will also need WJ LCA's So those tires don't rub, when you turn or spacers in front. If your just going for look and just street it will be tight. However if you want to off-road just a bit, I say you going to need a bit more than that. If the tires are true 33 inch tall to keep the factory movement you want 4 inch min. However I would say a 6 would be best.

 

Now if you go over 3 inch you need to look at the angle of your driveshaft, and look to correct it. is it 4x2 or 4x4? Also what is the diff gear ratio? Many things go in to just putting bigger tires on. if your 3.08 you turn it in to a straight up dog. also is it a 2.5 or 4.0? auto/manual? just a few question need to be asked to point you the right way.

 

with 33's and a 4.0 a 4.10 diff or better is needed. Also your brakes will be over the limits on stock. going from a largest jeep mj stock tire of 28.3 inch to 33 inch requires more than just a lift.

I’ll be off-road some but not a lot that’ll also factor into my build 

[bad_idea]

It's your truck, build it like you like.  While it may not be common, I wouldn't say it is super rare and valuable.  

 

You're going to need to run a wheel with less backspacing to fit those tires.  I run 33x12.5s on my XJ on 15x8 wheels with 4" of backspacing.  Stock backspacing is 5.25" or so.  The reduced backspacing pushes the tires further out of the wheel well, getting them out of the suspension area.  The tires hang out the wheel wells 3.5" in the front and a little less in the rear.  The tires rub on the lower control arms at full lock.  Back off the steering a few degrees and no more rub.  Only causes an issue in parking lots.  Easily solved by putting a few washers under the steering stops to reduce the turning radius.  Still turns tighter than my F250, very minor reduction in turning radius.

 

As far as lift height and clearance to lift - I'm on 5" w/ the fenders trimmed about 1.5" on my XJ.  The front end is the same between the two, so you should expect similar results.  I set my XJ up for off road use.  I can stuff the tire into the wheel well but still need to extend the bumpstops to prevent the tires from contacting 'stuff' when fully stuffed.  I have zero rubbing on the streets.  I have only rubbed a couple times off road.  One day I'll get around to extending the bumpstops, probably right after I destroy a fender.   

 

I would say 3" of lift will work if you do minimal trimming and extend the bump stops, you will have reduced suspension travel but should be enough for comfortable on road use.  The 33s will rub the front and back of the front fenders when you turn.  You can trim those areas and still use the stock fender flares.  I would suggest you do the lift, mount the tires, do some minor trimming to clear the front tires when turned lock to lock.  Then measure distance from top of axle tube to frame rail, lift front of truck and remove the front springs, set the axle at that measurement and then jack the axle up until the tires hit something.  Subtract those two numbers and that will be how much suspension travel you will have.

 

At that point, when the front tires are hitting stuff, measure for new bump stops in the front.  Install some extended bump stops and measure the distance from the bottom of the bump stop to the stop of the spring bucket on the axle.  Add another 1/2" or so to account for compression of the bump stops.  Bolt hockey pucks (actual hockey pucks, not a slang term) to the top of the spring bucket on the axle.  In the center of the spring bucket there is a dimple, drill a 5/16" hole in that dimple and tap it out to 3/8-16.  Drill a 7/16 hole in the center of the hockey pucks.  Buy some 3/8" bolts long enough to bolt the pucks down.  That should take care of the front axle.

 

The rear axle shouldn't be as bad.  I did very minimal trimming in the rear.  I have only had any rubbing in the rear when off road, running it hard.  

[mancheflo]

1 hour ago, bad_idea said:

It's your truck, build it like you like.  While it may not be common, I wouldn't say it is super rare and valuable.  

 

You're going to need to run a wheel with less backspacing to fit those tires.  I run 33x12.5s on my XJ on 15x8 wheels with 4" of backspacing.  Stock backspacing is 5.25" or so.  The reduced backspacing pushes the tires further out of the wheel well, getting them out of the suspension area.  The tires hang out the wheel wells 3.5" in the front and a little less in the rear.  The tires rub on the lower control arms at full lock.  Back off the steering a few degrees and no more rub.  Only causes an issue in parking lots.  Easily solved by putting a few washers under the steering stops to reduce the turning radius.  Still turns tighter than my F250, very minor reduction in turning radius.

 

As far as lift height and clearance to lift - I'm on 5" w/ the fenders trimmed about 1.5" on my XJ.  The front end is the same between the two, so you should expect similar results.  I set my XJ up for off road use.  I can stuff the tire into the wheel well but still need to extend the bumpstops to prevent the tires from contacting 'stuff' when fully stuffed.  I have zero rubbing on the streets.  I have only rubbed a couple times off road.  One day I'll get around to extending the bumpstops, probably right after I destroy a fender.   

 

I would say 3" of lift will work if you do minimal trimming and extend the bump stops, you will have reduced suspension travel but should be enough for comfortable on road use.  The 33s will rub the front and back of the front fenders when you turn.  You can trim those areas and still use the stock fender flares.  I would suggest you do the lift, mount the tires, do some minor trimming to clear the front tires when turned lock to lock.  Then measure distance from top of axle tube to frame rail, lift front of truck and remove the front springs, set the axle at that measurement and then jack the axle up until the tires hit something.  Subtract those two numbers and that will be how much suspension travel you will have.

 

At that point, when the front tires are hitting stuff, measure for new bump stops in the front.  Install some extended bump stops and measure the distance from the bottom of the bump stop to the stop of the spring bucket on the axle.  Add another 1/2" or so to account for compression of the bump stops.  Bolt hockey pucks (actual hockey pucks, not a slang term) to the top of the spring bucket on the axle.  In the center of the spring bucket there is a dimple, drill a 5/16" hole in that dimple and tap it out to 3/8-16.  Drill a 7/16 hole in the center of the hockey pucks.  Buy some 3/8" bolts long enough to bolt the pucks down.  That should take care of the front axle.

 

The rear axle shouldn't be as bad.  I did very minimal trimming in the rear.  I have only had any rubbing in the rear when off road, running it hard.  

That’s a lot of help! Thanks man 👍🏻

[Eagle]

5 hours ago, bad_idea said:

It's your truck, build it like you like.  While it may not be common, I wouldn't say it is super rare and valuable.  

 

 

I have to disagree. Someone earlier in this thread already noted that there were fewer than 1,000 '92 MJs built. It certainly IS super rare, and IMHO for that reason alone it should be preserved in original condition rather than hacked to put on bigger tires that probably aren't necessary for the limited wheeling Mancheflo will be doing. Value is a different matter, but if it's preserved in original configuration and taken care of, the value will only go up. As soon as the sheet metal gets cut, the value plummets.

 

It is his truck, and it's his decision. That said, I still think it's a very bad idea to start cutting up a pristine example of a very rare Comanche. Especially since it's a longbed, which isn't a good candidate for wheeling anyway. The shortbed MJ is much more nimble on the trail. The shortbed has a better breakover angle and a better departure angle.

[mancheflo]

4 hours ago, Eagle said:

 

I have to disagree. Someone earlier in this thread already noted that there were fewer than 1,000 '92 MJs built. It certainly IS super rare, and IMHO for that reason alone it should be preserved in original condition rather than hacked to put on bigger tires that probably aren't necessary for the limited wheeling Mancheflo will be doing. Value is a different matter, but if it's preserved in original configuration and taken care of, the value will only go up. As soon as the sheet metal gets cut, the value plummets.

 

It is his truck, and it's his decision. That said, I still think it's a very bad idea to start cutting up a pristine example of a very rare Comanche. Especially since it's a longbed, which isn't a good candidate for wheeling anyway. The shortbed MJ is much more nimble on the trail. The shortbed has a better breakover angle and a better departure angle.

The only reason I got the 33s is because I got a hell of a deal On then basically brand new. And I don’t plan to cut the hell out of this thing

[87MJTIM]

To make the purists (I am one) happy would be to buy a junk XJ and swap the front fenders.  Keep the originals intact and cut up the replacement.  (Or keep the replacements for future use.)

[DirtyComanche]

19 hours ago, DesertRat1991 said:

 

Plus HO motor and OBD1.

 

Yeah.  Garbage.  Cut it up.