dvitha

If you were 4.10 you would gain a bit, because you would be closer to original factory specs on ratio, for that tire size. Now that a side, did not see if on your info if you done a tune up (plugs, wires, cap rotor). Just wanted to say that. The return line are notorious for leaking, because it gets dried out. When checking for leak let every get nice and hot. The rubber fuel return line becomes more flexible when hot engine bay temps.

Wish I seen this one earlier, yep Cruiser has it right. about a 5 minute fix. Take shift tower off and than align the 3 forks. The tip of the shifter is wearing. If you have a welder add a little meat on the end of the shifter and grind it back to shape as it should be.

If you bled it like above said. no pumping, but slow push while you open the bleeder , and once to floor hold and shut bleeder. You can also use a vacuum gun if you have no one to push and hold for you. if above is done, I bet you have a small leak. Either on the slave to line connector or even on your master. When I replace a slave I replace the line and the master clutch. A small crack in your hose may not be able to be seen when cool and under the truck. However with heat from driving and use the fluid expands and the rubber flexes more so. At that point can let in a small amount of air. Seen it happen more than once here in the shop.

your work would be cut out for you. the input shaft is different length as you know everything else in the ba10/5 is the same. The amount of effort you need to do this, would be about the same as just rebuilding what you got. Now above state put in ax-15. I have a stack of ba10/5's, not for sale. I have used 2 of them to rebuild a ba10/5 and it still in service 20 years later. The soft metal is the week point in the ba10/5.

The alignment is to make sure it spins right without crushing gear (not moving) or not being in contact (not moving). If you changed tire sizes or gears you would change the whole gear. normally if it bouncing around a good lube in the cable, meaning it is drying out and getting resistance.

Bolt Fit is not the problem. will your hydraulic clutch line screw in to the new one is the question. Not knowing the shape of your hydraulic clutch line. The factory one has a u shape turn at the end to fit in the top side of the master. If not you can always get the right one that fits.

Check the wiring on the O2 relay. The Relay may be good, but with bad connection because of the dried electrical grease as well as degrading wire near crimp points on relay plug to be a cause. Your o2 sensor is not heating.

We at the shop use the tail gate all the time. Have use it a working bench as well as extra space when loading items longer than 7 feet. I have had 2 gold wings rear tires sit on the gate for a 600 mile trip. I would never worry about hinges. The gate it self is the weak point. If you need the extra length you can always get a piece of 3/4 - 8 x 3.5 ply wood if worried about the gate it's self. Some people remove them, which works great for loading and not tall enough to step directly on to tail gate. As above said about 55 gallon drum, I have had them sit on the gate with no problem ( not that I would drive with them in that location). Drum weights 20 lbs. and 55 gallons of oil is 360 lbs. 7.2 pounds per gallon is oil. So 380 and no bends after all these years delivering and picking up parts. like anything, heavier to the front and lighter to the back when hauling. So I think you have all sides in the info here, from be very conservative take it off, to what people have used and not hurt it.

like above said, normal.

oil changes, fluid changes and keeping everything clean makes a big difference. here in our shop we go through the whole truck at least every other month, to makes sure it best condition. Even the BA10-5's last a very long time if you makes to take care of them.

Since it is just going over it, and part of weight is sitting during ride, I think your be fine. I have put two 1500 gold wings at the same time side by side, and had no issues.

So from the pictures to me and the duck tape he has covering the spline, looks like he has a slip yoke in the middle of the drive shaft. his picture is only at the back. So if that is the case. the drive shaft slip yoke came out, because it was too short when the rear end dropped all the way. So maybe PO wanting extra movement for the drive shaft forward and backwards. However over axle lift was done on to after the design of the drive shaft that exceeded the shaft length during extension. or the design was not done right not allowing for fully extension when rear axle dropped.

spindle on the pinion if some how it broke in half, which does not even seem possible !

Sounds like the pinion bolt had been loosened at some time. When we do the pinion bold after setting preload and on the crushed point in side, we use locker on the thread. I have had them come to the shop in bad condition like this before. I seen something like this before and they guy had just went from 3.55 to 4.10. He did not put the thread locker on, drive 500 miles and it came loose. I have seen ujoints get pulled apart broken after shafts, and things like that. However ever time that bolt came off, some one was in the diff changed things and did not button it up right.

your still going to rub when you do full turn. Drive before and after, you will notice it will drive much different. The jeeps I have that are 4.10 ratio we use 30x9.5r15. no rub and no lift needed. Wider and taller is when you notice things.