Front Calipers Sticking

[mrmel2you]

Just replaced (both sides) front rotors, wheel bearings, grease seals, brake pads----now the calipers on the front are sticking, causing the brakes to drag.  Both front rims are very hot to the touch, have not noticed any smoking from the pads, but you can surely smell them when you stop at a light or stop sign.  Will try my hand at rebuilding them----before shelling out more $$$$ for new/rebuilt ones.  Man, if it isn't one thing with "The Beast"---it's another, LOL :)  Seems I was right on choosing to name her "The Beast"-----she's sure been a beast to me lately :)

 

[gogmorgo]

There's a chance it's both going bad (already bad in the box?) at once, but I might start thinking about potential issues with the front brake circuit, master cylinder, etc.

It could be coincidence, but I'm not a big believer. Could also be you used an incorrect combination of parts, there were a couple changes over the years.

[mrmel2you]

"gogmorgo",  All the parts I bought and used---matched up with the ones that came off it :)  Calipers never stuck on it before I replaced the brakes.  Pistons slid back nice and easy, no problem there.  Wheel bearings took care of the slight shimmy in the frontend (between 45-70mph).  Maybe it just needs a "burn-in" period for everything to settle in?  Had a similar issue with my '85 Cutlass Supreme, calipers stuck for about the first 20 miles and cleared up :)  Replaced calipers/pads/wheel bearings/grease seals all at the same time on it.  Something told me I should have rebuilt the calipers while I had the MJ tore down :(  Kickin' my butt now :)

[HOrnbrod]

Did you match the brake pads as they came off? There is an inboard and outboard pad and they will go on backwards. This usually causes them to grab and squeal. Could cause dragging too.

 

[DirtyComanche]

I could be wrong, but don't these calipers sometimes get a notch worn in them where the tabs from the pads ride, sometimes making them stick?  Most often noticed when new parts are installed...  Or am I thinking Chevy?

[Rockfrog]

Nope, you're thinking correctly ... that's the most likely cause. Fix is to weld the 'divots' in the caliper mounts and regrind smooth.

 

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[mrmel2you]

Didn't notice any "divots" in the mounts, but if I can get break in the weather tomorrow (raining here) I will check it out again.  Matched up the pads as they came off :)  Thanks for all the help and input fellas, it's greatly needed :)  Gotta love this club, it's totally AWESOME :)

Papa Mel out----it's past his bed-time, LOL :)

[ftpiercecracker1]

If you end up pulling the calipers rebuilding them is stupid easy.

 

Pry dust boot off with screwdriver/pick

 

Pop out piston using hydraulic pressure or sliding flat round punch through bleeder valve.

 

Use pick to remove inner rubber seal.

 

Emory cloth to clean in cylinder/piston.

 

Done.

 

 

I also applied a very thin layer of antisieze to the piston. No idea if will help or not.

[75sv1]

Both is perplexing. I would check the hoses. They can delaminate, and act as a one way valve. I haven't had it happen to me knowingly. I have been 'involved' where that was the problem. A neighbor worked on the vehicle and that was it. I did have a front caliper lock up last year, Ford Contour. Not sure on that one. Replaced a lot of parts. One of my XJs was the divots. I put on new pads, and it shifted the pads out of the divot. I made the new owner aware of this.

[Jackrabbit41]

Could be wrong wheel bearings. I had that problem and my rotors were rubbing on the upper ball joint arm thing and grooving them. I couldn't move

[dustyinthedirt]

this seems easy enough

[coathanger37]

I had the opposite happen. The previous own told me he put in new brakes and just assumed it was done correctly. It had deep divots worn in the slides and were stopping the pads from moving. I wasn't comfortable welding them.

If this is causing your issue and don't want to weld, do a search for steering knuckles. They were not terribly expensive. If your ball joints are worn it is a good time to replace them as well.

[gogmorgo]

The slides (that get the divots) are on a bracket that unbolts from the knuckle, meaning replacing the entire knuckle is unnecessary, no?

[coathanger37]

The slides (that get the divots) are on a bracket that unbolts from the knuckle, meaning replacing the entire knuckle is unnecessary, no?

Yours must be different than mine.My front axle came from a 93 GC. I just assumed they were the same or similar.

[HOrnbrod]

 

The slides (that get the divots) are on a bracket that unbolts from the knuckle, meaning replacing the entire knuckle is unnecessary, no?

Yours must be different than mine.My front axle came from a 93 GC. I just assumed they were the same or similar.

 

 

My 91 2WD has those brackets, don't know about the 4WD. They went away in 93, different design hubs.

[Rockfrog]

Me thinks the 2wd retained the AMC brakes until the switch the standard unit bearings in 93.

The 4wd axles dropped the bracket design (AMC/Bendix) in 1990. The 91 up knuckles were all one piece with no removable caliper bracket.

 

 

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[gogmorgo]

I'll have to check out my small collection of D30's. Got a '91 CAD from my MJ and '93 non-CAD from an XJ. Also a '92 D30 under my 2-door, but it's at my parents' house and I honestly don't remember much about it.