coathanger37

Wow, that truck looks dangerous. No way I would consider driving that thing.

You would be lucky to break even parting it out. Flipping car is a lot more work than the tv shows lead you to believe.

If you don't find a replacement see this post http://comancheclub.com/topic/50914-manual-window-regulator-repair/ I just did this yesterday

I wish I had thought to take pictures but it was raining intermittently and I was in a hurry. My truck sat up for several years and the window seals rotted and let water get trapped in the rubber protective hose at the end. It had rusted just enough that the spiral that the gear catches no longer worked. After months of looking I gave up and took a hard long look at how it works. I only recommend this if you cannot find a new or good used replacement. At the bottom of the track just below T connector is you will note the track is crushed into a stop. Open that up so the cable can come through. You may have to fight the cable to get it out but it will come out. You may have to use some rust remover to get it moving past the bad area. Once you get the cable out you will need to spend the time to get most if not all the rust off. DO NOT DESTROY the spiral cable. Once your done measure how far up the cable the T connector is. You will need some pliers to hold the cable. Carefully screw the T off the end of the cable. Now you can screw on that part to the other end. Be careful, Take your time and get the T on the cable to the distance it was on the other end. I don't know for sure but this will likely work on power windows with this cable system.

Anyone know where to get a good used tailgate or new skin? Also need a new back glass with the rubber weather strip.

Got mine on there.

One thing I haven't seen mentioned is the egr. It could be sticking open or leaking. When you first drove it without the exhaust hooked up there was little or no back pressure. Now that is hooked up exhaust gas may be flooding the intake.

You need to verify you are getting power to the starter solenoid. If not it could be as simple as a neutral safety switch.

Sounds like your egr is leaking or what ever opens it is defective. You found an MJ for $200. Around here I've seen one that sold for $1000 and it had been rolled on it's side. Saw one that was pretty rusty go for either $1200 or $1500. You got a deal there.

Yours must be different than mine.My front axle came from a 93 GC. I just assumed they were the same or similar.

Just to add to all the confusion. If it overheats under load but not at idle. Possible blown head gasket or if you really unlucky a cracked cylinder wall (I had it happen several years ago).

I my experience most of the time idle overheating is almost always the water pump. I always change the thermostat when changing the pump. If you see a lot of crud the do a coolant system flush when your done before filling with antifreeze. Just my 2 cents

I had the opposite happen. The previous own told me he put in new brakes and just assumed it was done correctly. It had deep divots worn in the slides and were stopping the pads from moving. I wasn't comfortable welding them. If this is causing your issue and don't want to weld, do a search for steering knuckles. They were not terribly expensive. If your ball joints are worn it is a good time to replace them as well.