TNCave Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 Hello all, I'm trying to keep this project as cheap as possible as it's just a knock around truck for hauling firewood and goofing around in. That being said, I'm not willing to compromise functionality for cost. My MJ is basically as purchased with GC wheels and 31x10.50's and around a 2" lift. The tires rub the LCA's like crazy long before full lock. I want to fix this, while maintaining the original turning radius. I've read a bit about WJ LCA's, and they seem like a decent option. As I understand it, the bushings are non-replaceable, so any junkyard LCA might be worn out already and it can't be fixed. Also, I'm not crazy about the trimming as I don't know how this will affect the integrity of the LCA. I'd love to hear opinions about this. For about double the price, or more, or junkyard WJ LCA's, I can get Rusty's fixed LCA's with increased clearance for jeep wheels. I've not read anything specific about these, but I have read negative reviews of Rusty's customer service. In general do the folks on here think the WJ LCA's is a good and usable option? I've not seen any discussion about disastrous consequences, but I did read one install write-up in which the trimming was botched pretty badly. I'd love to hear from folks who have done it about the integrity of the LCA's after trimming and the longevity of the bushings. Also, if anyone is using the Rusty's fixed LCA's with increased clearance, what are your opinions? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 I will veer somewhat off topic......it might be easier and cheaper (since you say you just want it for hauling wood and goofing around) to just get a set of rims with a different back set (deeper dish) it will push your rubber out to prevent rubbing and give a wider stance... just a thought :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNCave Posted December 19, 2013 Author Share Posted December 19, 2013 I've thought about that, and wheel spacers, but I assumed I would have fender clearance issues. It looks like you might have some experience with that. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 That is why I suggested it......because we are going through that issue right now......my son just got his first jeep (XJ) has a set of 31 inch Yokohama Geo-landers on it (Nice aggressive Tread tire....but LOUD on pavement) He has major rub issues (stock XJ old-school rims) so his fast solution is for me to give him my 31's off the MJ (Gee why didn't i think of that :shake: ) because they are mounted on deep dish Eagle's and are out too far to rub..... My solution was to get on Kijiji and start looking for rims...... :thumbsup: I have personally never run spacers.....never felt comfortable with them.......but that being said it took me years to lose my apprehension of running aluminum rims over steel.....but now I have Deep dish on my YJ as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNCave Posted December 19, 2013 Author Share Posted December 19, 2013 I've never run spacers just thought that they might be a cheaper option than new/used wheels. I've seen some 1/2" spacers but they aren't hub specific and I'd be a bet nervous about running them. I think new wheels will likely be outside my budget. I suppose this is why I was pretty focused on the LCA's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSimon Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 I don't know what your budget is, but you can buy brand new WJ control arms from Rock Auto for $25 a piece .... and they come with bushings. If they didn't work, you could return them and only be out the shipping cost. But for $50, you could probobly search up a set of well used rims with less backspacing ... and maybe sell your stock rims to offset the cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNCave Posted December 19, 2013 Author Share Posted December 19, 2013 That's a great tip. It looks like the local pull-a-part wants over $20 each for them. It looks like it's Dorman part # 520320. The price listed is $32.79, so if shipping isn't too much than that might be my best option. I still want to hear opinions about the integrity of the control arm after it is cut to fit the MJ bracket. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 they are WAY stronger than MJ arms and the bushings are both tougher and give a better ride. the only cutting you need to do will not reduce the strength at all. this is the only cut you have to make. the steel insert inside the bushing is just a tad too wide. these are the optional cuts I made in order to get absolute maximum theoretical wheel travel. I didn't have the time to install them uncut first and so I don't have any comparisons for the theoretical "gains". it might be completely negligible. because they touched here up inside the arm pocket on the cab: I also nipped a bit off the axle: but like I said, I wasn't thorough in my testing and don't have any numbers about what might be gained by what I did. they might not have mattered at all. feel free to fill in the gaps if you're up to the extra work. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNCave Posted December 19, 2013 Author Share Posted December 19, 2013 Is that true? The only thing that needs to be cut is the steel insert? Pete, in your first photo, is that before on right and after on left? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubpilot Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 You can just unwind the steering stops on the axle, no need to change any parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNCave Posted December 20, 2013 Author Share Posted December 20, 2013 I'm hoping to maintain the stock turning radius. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinkrun Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 I did the above that Pete did several years ago not a single issue in fact it tightened the truck up quite well. I am running stock wheels and 30 / 9.50/15 never rubbed once. Keep in mind a used set of LCA of the the WJ are much newer and will have a ton of life left in them compared to the flimsy worn out Comanche arms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watchamakalit Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 I too am running WJ arms. I purchased new ones from rock auto. I was a huge improvement in the ride and handling of my truck, but my stock bushings were shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tactical Bacon Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 Did someone say spacers? http://www.roughcountry.com/wheel-spacers-1090.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted December 21, 2013 Share Posted December 21, 2013 What was the point of nipping the axle? Do you have a lift? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbulliwagen Posted December 21, 2013 Share Posted December 21, 2013 The price on those on rock auto must have come way down since I last looked at them a few years ago. I had a used set I got free but they were stolen. I guess its time to look into new ones again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 21, 2013 Share Posted December 21, 2013 What was the point of nipping the axle? Do you have a lift? the idea in my head was looking for maximum droop. the truck has no lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted December 21, 2013 Share Posted December 21, 2013 For those considering either spacers or rims with less backspacing, stop to consider that you would be simply trading one problem for another. With 31x10.50s on factory rims, the tires fit inside the stock wheel wells and tuck up inside the fenders when the suspension is compressed. The ONLY place you have rubbing is the rear inside shoulder of the tire on the LCA at full steering lock. That's easily cured with the WJ LCAs. Push the tires farther outboard with spacers or aftermarket rims, and now the tires WON'T tuck up inside the fenders when the suspension compresses, and very likely the rear outer shoulder of the tires will hit the lower corner of the flares when the steering is approaching full lock. The WJ arms are by far the cleanest, simplest, most elegant solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNCave Posted December 21, 2013 Author Share Posted December 21, 2013 Thanks Eagle, that is definitely my plan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jubalb Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 Does anyone know what year WJ lower control arms to purchases that will fit a Comanche? 89 4.0 stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 39 minutes ago, jubalb said: Does anyone know what year WJ lower control arms to purchases that will fit a Comanche? 89 4.0 stock Any. 1999-2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Some minor trimming (to the control arm) will be required for it to fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jubalb Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 Awesome thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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