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Alexia's 1987 To 1997 Comanche


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When Safelite installed your windshield did they have the rubber moulding or did you supply it. I'm having one put in next week and I would like the rubber moulding. Thanks

 

They supplied the moulding.  I simply lied a little by specifying it was a 1997 Jeep Cherokee when I made the appointment so that I would get moulding instead.  The little windshield trim nubs do not interfere as long as the windshield is installed centered.(Like it should be anyway.)

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A little white lie never hurt anyone. I saw mouldings on team cherokee, I'll call Safelite and give them a sob story that my trim is bad. Thanks for your help.

 

The old trim, even if a day old, gets torn up when removing it.  It has to be replaced regardless.

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A little white lie never hurt anyone. I saw mouldings on team cherokee, I'll call Safelite and give them a sob story that my trim is bad. Thanks for your help.

 

The old trim, even if a day old, gets torn up when removing it.  It has to be replaced regardless.

I must have screwed up some where, I removed, cleaned, painted and reinstalled my windshield trim. Looks like new.

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I had the cracked windshield replaced by Safelite a few years ago. It has the stainless trim all around. They asked if I wanted to retain the original trim or use a rubber gasket. I wanted to keep the trim as it was in great shape. No problems. The trim looks as it did before. I guess it depends on which Safelite location you bring it too. 

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They also put the chrome trim back on the Diesel MJ. The only thing that was a problem was that he didn't bring any additional plastic trim clips to replace the dried out ones that broke upon removal.

 

Rob

 

I figured that would happen to mine too so I brought it to their shop so they could replace them.   :brows:

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A little white lie never hurt anyone. I saw mouldings on team cherokee, I'll call Safelite and give them a sob story that my trim is bad. Thanks for your help.

 

The old trim, even if a day old, gets torn up when removing it.  It has to be replaced regardless.

 

 

I must have screwed up some where, I removed, cleaned, painted and reinstalled my windshield trim. Looks like new.

 

 

 

 

I had the cracked windshield replaced by Safelite a few years ago. It has the stainless trim all around. They asked if I wanted to retain the original trim or use a rubber gasket. I wanted to keep the trim as it was in great shape. No problems. The trim looks as it did before. I guess it depends on which Safelite location you bring it too.

 

 

They also put the chrome trim back on the Diesel MJ. The only thing that was a problem was that he didn't bring any additional plastic trim clips to replace the dried out ones that broke upon removal.

 

Rob

 

 

 

 

They also put the chrome trim back on the Diesel MJ. The only thing that was a problem was that he didn't bring any additional plastic trim clips to replace the dried out ones that broke upon removal.

 

 

Rob

 

I figured that would happen to mine too so I brought it to their shop so they could replace them.   :brows:

 

 

 

We are talking about rubber trim here that gets torn and adhered to the adhesive.  >_>  I was standing in line at Jo-Ann Fabrics wondering why my phone was beeping a bunch.

 

L3J6n.jpg

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Hella Vision Plus H4 Headlights - A huge improvement over stock even without a wiring harness upgrade.

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Fixed Vacuum Ball - HVAC vents finally work and cruise control works.

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Marine Style Battery Terminals - This is part of Kelly's WIP 4 gauge wire upgrade. This solved the hard starting issue as my power harness was thoroughly destroyed by corrosion along with battered terminals.

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Trimmed the cover at the PDC to fit the new cables.

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150 AMP fuse for the alternator. I can run a 136 AMP alternator safely now.

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The flexible 4 gauge welding wire was wrapped in wire loom for heat and abrasion resistance. The alternator field generator wires were removed from the original harness and incorporated into the new harness.

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My cable setup is identical except for the painted marine battery terminals and the wire loom on the new mains cables. Good ideas both. Do you remember the wire loom size you used?

I only have the painted terminals because Kelly was out of stock on terminals so I ordered a different set through Amazon. The wire loom is Buchanan 3/8" from Home Depot. Just barely fits the alternator cable plus field wires, but is otherwise perfect for the rest of the cables.
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  • 2 weeks later...

Have you hooked up the new rear view mirrow yet?  I'm eager for your review.

None of the electrical is hooked up, but it is hung. At 55MPH the heavy weight of the mirror causes it to oscillate in an oval motion making it useless while the windshield itself is barely vibrating.
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This is my to do shelf. I have been organizing everywhere into a neat area to stage the various things that I need to do. I also need to wait until after taxes are done to make any large purchases.gallery_1_12_185204.jpg

  • Fender Flares - Actually considering just grabbing Napier's flares. I do not want to cut the sheet metal, but I having too much trouble with the used parts that I have.
  • Shift linkage and D30 cover.(Boxes are seals for the Wrangler.)
  • Electronics galore! AEM, radio, and some wiring.
  • Supercharger - I need easily another $500 in parts to support it.
  • Random stuff.
  • On the floor is the gas tank cover, extra Dynamat, amplifier wiring, and spare parts.
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  • 3 weeks later...

AEM F/IC Installation - That bulge is a perfect spot to wire in without extending the AEM F/IC harness and have it mounted inside.

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Mounted to the driver kick plate.

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F/IC's USB B port is extended and mounted to the center console for easy access and tuning.

gallery_1_12_177711.jpg

 

I ended up getting the Napier Flares.

gallery_1_12_254247.jpg

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Your truck keeps getting better! Those flares will definitely fill out your truck's profile IMO. What kind of features does the F/IC have?

Fuel/Ignition Controller - One of the best piggy back controllers available. With it installed the PCM just fires across sensors inside the F/IC and no longer directly controls the fuel injectors. That way the F/IC has complete control over the injectors. It can then modify the MAP, crankshaft position sensor, and camshaft position sensors to make the PCM happy.

 

For example, when I install the supercharger later I will be installing very large fuel injectors. At idle those injectors would cause the engine to run rich; assuming the PCM didn't stall the engine from attempting to trim the fuel back. So inside the F/IC tuning map a negative percentage can be applied to the injectors at idle and then removed once the RPMs/boost increases. Then as boost is added the MAP signal can be changed to never appear to be in boost to the stock PCM.

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Fuel/Ignition Controller - One of the best piggy back controllers available. With it installed the PCM just fires across sensors inside the F/IC and no longer directly controls the fuel injectors. That way the F/IC has complete control over the injectors.

The Unichip can't do that. I can see the benefit.

 

It can then modify the MAP, crankshaft position sensor, and camshaft position sensors to make the PCM happy.

The Unichip can do that. Also the TPS and IAT signals. But it's fixed over the entire RPM bandwidth. Same for the F/IC?

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