reece146

So, there is a plugin for Firefox you can install that will show the PBucket obscured images inline so you can still see the pictures in context. Example: https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/photobucket-fixer/ I'm sure there is similar for other browsers. HTH

I was annoyed when I opened the box and it didn't have instructions. It wasn't a big deal to figure out though. I looked at some other installs online and really they weren't that useful. Just start plugging it together.

I have this snorkel on my Jeep. It's identical to the ARB w/o the logo as mentioned. It's plenty strong, robust, fits, whatever. I'd buy it again without hesitation, although the other style mentioned above does allow you to keep your inner fender washer reservoir on a later model Jeep.

Yep, numbers are totally doable. Run higher CR and 91 and more is available.

The power gains with this head come from designing a stroker around it and getting the quench and compression ratio correct (Al allows you to bump CR above what an Fe head will tolerate). Just bolting it on to a stock 4.0 bottom end will give some gains but likely will be disappointing per cash outlay. I've seen projected prices from $1200 - $1400 in various places. When I build a stroker for the XJ I'll likely go this route "just because". Hoping for ~270 hp / 375 lb-ft on 87 octane via a modified "poor man's" build. Should be doable using other stroker builds as examples to extrapolate from.

Also, if I recall correctly they were basically just the D30/D44 hybrid found in the TJ Rubicons (i.e. nothing special). There was a rumour they were high pinion but someone on one of the forums took a picture of one and it was low pinion. I may have faulty memory on that though - been over ten years.

Maybe I missed it in the other thread, did the "cobra" intake plenum clear the hood in the end?

Contract out the ring and pinion gear setup. The rest is two banana work.

Exciting to see you this close to final tuning.

Yeah, I wasn't sure if you found a source for new/ fresh rails... that happened to be painted or whatever. Too bad no one makes these in stainless. Hmm...

Secksi. Did you paint it or did it come that way?

MY2000 could be the infamous 0331 cylinder head casting crack issue. Inspect the coolant and exhaust for signs of contamination.

What about 97+?

Research home made lizard skin: microspheres in house paint. Works like "the real thing" at 1/5 the cost. I haven't used it personally but will soon.

Sounds more like the tech doing the pre-licensing inspection not wanting to take sign off a big unknown. I can see that. AFAIK there is nothing in Ontario law that makes lifts illegal.

Where did you hear that lifts are illegal in Ontario?

I've been looking for a digital copy forever...

Cool. Are you going to do the recover yourself or contract that part out?

There's a couple things that I find helps... When you crack the screws only crack them enough to get the fluid coming out. Much more and air sucks in around the threads. When your helper is pushing down on the pedal close the bleeder before they get to the bottom of the pedal travel. When doing new installs you will use a lot of fluid... no way around it IME. Before getting too involved with manual bleeding let the system gravity bleed a while first. Otherwise, yeah, I suck at bleeding too, but a soft pedal is ALWAYS air in the system after new parts install IME. I'm not a professionsl wrench but in the last ~25 years of monkeying with cars as a hobbyist I have yet to be sold a defective part. The problem I find with the self bleed kits is that the connections are never tight fitting enough to keep air from sucking past regardless of what you try. I have speed bleeders on my "big" Jeep. Never had luck with them either so I just use them as normal bleeders. I'm willing to admit I may be doing something wrong in this case. 2¢, ymmv, etc. HTH

Sorry if I missed it, is the mirror a new aftermarket unit or did you pull it off a wreck? If latter, year, make and model (ball park)? Have you decided what you are doing with the engine management? AEM piggy back or MS? Really liking what you are have done with the truck. Once I finally get my life back under control I am hoping to get my truck project restarted. Every time I walk out into the studio and see the bare shell standing on jack stands it makes me sad.

With respect, I think you are overthinking this. We are talking about a POS Chrysler system, not BMW, Porsche, etc. I really doubt the ECU sampling rate and testing done by ChryCo is anything to write home about, particularly in a truck application. This is a not a performance application. All the system cares about is not locking the wheel. That said, I think an unloaded MJ would be a perfect candidate for this system if for no other reason than to keep the truck from swapping ends under hard braking and/or to maximize effect (i.e. actually get the rear brakes to do something). Hmm... 2¢

IIRC the XJ ABS computer is a completely stand alone unit from the PCM and TCU. As stated above, it only needs data from the axle tone rings to make calculations. An hour of research on NAXJA would take all the guess work out though... HTH

The easiest way to bleed the ABS is to take it out into a clear parking lot or quiet back road and do a couple of hard stops that trigger the ABS. You don't need a lot of speed - you just have to trigger the pumping action. Be careful, I dunno about down there but up here there is snow and ice on most pavement now. Don't go spinning off into a ditch. You may have to re-bleed the lines to the wheels again afterwards but I've never encountered that personally. I've never had to reopen the system other than to check the level at the reservoir. This was on my old S2000. Car was tracked and had normal pedal feel after every fluid flush and "panic" re-bleed. Good luck!

I have yet to see an automotive dyno in Canada read in metric. No one thinks in metric for automotive stuff, IME. Well, except that guy down in Sales that thinks he's a car guy because he has a car magazine subscription and drives a BMW. You know the guy, the one that is mostly always wrong about car stuff and you end up rolling your eyes at but can't be bothered to correct. I've seen dynos with metric readouts in Canada but they were all industrial application equipment (gas turbines moslty). Canada is kind of a hybridized I guess. Most think in kms and km/h but then most think in MPG (both Imperial and US to compare notes to the south and with the U.K.). I've noticed that most people under ~30-35 years old or so are starting to talk in l/100km more and more but that is a screwed up unit so I generally don't use it. You can't directly compare with the rest of the mostly commonly available English speaking automotive media out there. Maybe it's just my circle of car peeps. One friend writes for a Canadian car mag and he is all metric all the time about cars except when we are talking about our race cars. Then it's SAE for the engine and metric for the speeds and distance. IIRC the U.K. is metric but their road signs are in mi/h and they talk in hp and lb-ft. Since they invented the foot, mile, gallon, etc. (i.e. the Imperial or British Gravitational system) I guess that makes sense culturally. The rest of Europe is all metric all the time. Same for Australia. 2¢

Pedantic cat says you're pedantic. The unit is "Torks" I thought everyone knew that.