reece146

You are running MS (v2?), right? How big a deal would it be to get MS running on a normally aspirated 4.x?

We are talking about a truck that was designed to tow 5000 lbs from the factory. Upgrades are to make it perform closer to current expectations. Not increase tow rating (you can't - you need to redo the type certification to do that). What you can buy in the show room today is nuts. Don't the modern trucks do 0-60 in under 8 seconds with 10,000k lbs in tow? I may be exagerating but you get my point. Build it well, be smart about it... Not to keep harping... I tow a ~3500 trailer. My Jeep (XJ) is fully built and weighs ~4200 lbs empty... Empty! Add two adults and two kids, a weeks worth of camping equipment and bikes, etc... Juggling the weight around that is like towing a 4500+ lb trailer with a stockish MJ. Without trailer brakes it tows adequately but I have larger than stock brakes on the Jeep. It's no hot rod on an incline but it gets by ok. On level ground it is fine. It needs trailer brakes. To be certain the load isn't pushing around the truck in a panic situation add trailer brakes, anti-sway and a weight distributing hitch. You'll be fine. 2¢

I have WJ brakes on the front and vented Suzuki J2 front brakes on the rear axle on my XJ... towing my Starcarft 11RT fully loaded it has no issues braking on the downhills from Maniwaki, Quebec. I'd guess the towed weight is around 3500 lbs and no trailer brakes (I'm lazy). I'm running 16" wheels also to clear the WJ brakes, 265/75-16 Duratracs.

Sounds like we are building the same Jeep for the same purpose. I am building a MJ to tow a track car and have a slide in tent trailer kind of thing for over-nighters. It says it's rated for 5000 lbs so that's what I'm staying under. Brakes! Weight distributing hitch Anti-sway Should be fine if you are patient on the up hills. Btw, have you registered your truck yet? Do you have a blue or black plate? In theory even with black plate we should be exempt from annual inspections (yellow sticker) because truck plus fully loaded trailer falls under 4500 kg. But...

Spidey-sense says there was a change from mechanical to electronic around `91-`92 and then the bus style and/or mechanical interface changed again around `96 w/ OBD2. I may be muddling YJ and TJ stuff in there though.

Are you confusing things, OP? AFAIK the VSS is in the transfer case tail housing (speedo gear). There is nothing on the rear axle for VSS. As for ABS, I thought it was a standalone system with its own separate controller (ECU)? I could be wrong though as I haven't had to deal with it. When I changed the rear axle on my 2001 XJ (C8.25 for FF D44) there was no electronics or sensors to deal with.

Go here and start reading/ researching: http://www.naxja.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=68

The red one is a short box shortened in front of the rear wheel. Look at a Hilux or a Frontier to see what the proportion is like. The box ends up being something like 4-5'. To do it any other way will make the truck ugly/long. I have more images of the red one but they are at the awkward angle also. The only way to do it and have it look good (IMO) is to combine the rear of the MJ door with the front of the rear XJ door and then use the back of the MJ cab. I have yet to see one done this way - probably because it is a lot of work. Otherwise the C-pillar looks hill-billy homemade and the MJ vent doesn't flow into the design. Depends on what you are trying to build I guess. Lot of work for a marginally useful, small bed.

Put some penetrating oil on the bleeders before you go get new ones. They'll be ready to come out by the time you come back.

I forget all the technical minutia but what I can tell you is that the WJ brakes and proper cross-over steering are a worth while upgrade. It steers and brakes like a real vehicle instead of something from the 1970s. I have WJ brakes, cross over with tie-rod flip and converted to 5 on 5.5" pattern. Works well. I also have WARN lock out hubs but I wouldn't do that again given how much it costs now. When I did it the cost was ~$750. Nowadays I think it is closer to $1500.

I have a Scout II rear axle in the back of my XJ. Full floater conversion, disk brakes, air locker, etc. I wouldn't do it again - tubes are too small really. There's better axles out there.

Interesting colour... maybe your camera is blowing out the red. Is it supposed to be red or is it faded to the orangey colour I am seeing? Just curious if it is a factory colour. Was orange even offered? I don't think so.

When is the seller going to encounter a potential buyer that knows what this truck is or wants to buy it for the rareness? Around here a really good condition (i.e. low mileage) XJ or MJ is around $5k or so. I've seen built MJs with modern (i.e. MY97+) sheet metal, interior and drivetrain listed for sale for ~$8000-$10000. I don't know if the sellers ever got that much for the trucks. I say offer ~5000 € and see where it leads; see how soft he is on price. 9500 € is definitely too much. For 9500 € you could import a decent built Comanche from North America. The extra bit of money you offer will compensate for the exclusivity and condition of the truck in your market. Ultimately, these are still old-fashioned, cheaply made vehicles. Don't let the seller snow you with it being exclusive, rare, whatever. HTH

Delete post - see below

Sounds like a win-win!

If you are going to bother put in a real engine. LS4 should bolt up but verify. It has the 60º bell pattern but I'm not sure of the starter location since it is a FWD V8 engine.

AMC V8 fits with little issues. Search NAXJA.

I'm currently debating what to put in my MJ: GM LS4 and Isuzu 60° bellhousing mated to a AW4 Or Isuzu 4BD diesel mated to some undetermined transmission (Aisin A440?)

Very nice. This is fiddly stuff that most people don't have the patience to get right but it looks like you've nailed it.

Sounds like an issue with the shifter. These cases are pretty simple... if you got it put togehter without spare parts it is likely correct. Get under the Jeep and disconnecct the shifter. Run the transfer case through it's settings without the shifter to ensure you can get every postition.

My built XJ w/ long arms and 32s weighs 4300 lbs (truck scale confirmed) You will be near or over 5000 lbs.

Not sure... I think I found the images on NAXJA several years ago so there may be more information there. Do a deep search of NAXJA (use google) and you may find some supporting text. As far as the technical side of it... cut/weld/cut/weld... it's not a big deal. There's not much more to say about it other than what the images show.

I couldn't find the images with the CJ front clip - must have deleted them. Here's with TJ front clip: http://moose.ca/horrific/

It's been done on an XJ. Looked horrific. Should be able to find images in google image search. Don't do it.

IIRC the Dana 44 differential assembly in the Vette and Viper are pretty much the same as the Dana 44 in the JK. That is, completely different from the earlier 44s like in our vintage Jeeps. Doesn't make any difference to the discussion but worth knowing [?].