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Headlight Upgrades?


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My passenger side high beam doesn't work, so I need to replace it, but I've noticed how lousy the factory lights really are. Does anyone have any advice on the best/safest way to upgrade? I know there are brighter options, but what about the wiring?

 

Also, are the 84-96 lights the same as the 97-01? I know the turn signals are different, but are the main units the same or different? I'm considering doing the '97+ conversion on the front and I don't want to spend money on new lights now, if they won't work when I upgrade to the newer style front end.

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I would say to do a H4 conversion and upgrade the wiring to a larger gauge with relays.

 

the 97+ headlights themselves are the same as the 97-

 

here is some quick info on jeepforum

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/need ... e-1050049/

 

this is the results of searching "headlight upgrade" in the Cherokee forum

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/search.p ... id=8980254

 

if I remember correctly they have h4 conversions on eBay but they are diamond cut and those throw a crappy light pattern (pretty sure that is how it is)

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My friend has the Silverstars in his Rubicon and they made a big difference. They are much brighter and whiter than the stock lights, I will be using them when I get past my overheating issues :wall:

 

It is such a cheap and simple upgrade I couldn't resist doing it again on my tow rig and my comanche.

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fitchVA from naxja has the best write-up on the harness upgrade.

http://fitchva.com/jeep/?p=48

 

 

You know I have seen multiple people discuss this 'wiring upgrade.'

 

I have had a '94 XJ and I now have an '87 MJ. Neither of the vehicles had a problem where there was a voltage difference in my headlight wiring compared to my battery but I have heard other say this problem exists.

 

Currently, I am running the Silverstar lights on my MJ. When I wired up ALL of my wiring for my accessories I ran wires & relays for EVERYTHING I could conceive I would ever need (rock lights, fog lamps, fans, etc). I actually ran wiring to bypass my existing factory headlight wiring and set everything up on relays and what not. For giggles, I hooked up one of my headlights via a relay and bypass wiring and the other headlight is getting it's power by the factory wiring. I can NOT tell a difference. Both headlights look identically bright. Maybe cause I took some of the load off of the wiring harness it works better but regardless, they work the same. The funny thing is that I never changed it and to this day it is set up the same way.

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I have now done a wiring upgrade on 2 MJ's, 1 XJ, and my CJ. Have seen good to amazing improvements on all of them. I did my CJ first and chose to go with IPF housings and H4 bulbs. This was a dramatic change and a worth while investment seeing as how I will probably never sell that old heep. Second was my old MJ and I also elected to go with the IPF housings to compliment the new wiring. Again a great upgrade. Next was the XJ which just got a harness upgrade. It was definately an improvement but not as great as the others. Lastly was my current MJ which got a new harness and Sylvania Silverstars (had to try them after all the hype). The silverstars were definately way better than the stock lights but not quite as nice as the ipfs but way cheaper too. Hope this helps. I have future plans of some H4 housings and higher wattage bulbs for the current MJ on down the road.

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I upgraded to HID on mine, best improvement I have ever done. I bought it from a guy that sells them locally here, I got both housings, the bulbs and the wire harness for about $135. Well worth every penny.

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I don't have upgraded headlights, they are the same ones that were in it when I got it 3 years ago.

 

I do, however, have a wiring hack so that both the high and low beams can come on at the same time. If the headlights are on, the lows are on. The high/low switch still decides whether or not to light the high/low, but I ran a jumper wire between the feed wire and the low beam wires. The switch is on the steering column (on mine it is on the driver's side of the column, and quite easy to get at). I can get a picture if anyone wants it.

 

When I go from my truck to someone else's car, turning on the high beams is no brighter than the lows, because the low beams turn off as the highs come on.

 

Granted, if you drive in the city, this won't do diddly for you. On country roads, you will wonder why you didn't do it earlier.

I would be interested in details. Wouldn't a simple jumper wire allow the low beams to feed power to the high beams also, causing them both to be on all the time no matter what?

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I don't have upgraded headlights, they are the same ones that were in it when I got it 3 years ago.

 

I do, however, have a wiring hack so that both the high and low beams can come on at the same time. If the headlights are on, the lows are on. The high/low switch still decides whether or not to light the high/low, but I ran a jumper wire between the feed wire and the low beam wires. The switch is on the steering column (on mine it is on the driver's side of the column, and quite easy to get at). I can get a picture if anyone wants it.

 

When I go from my truck to someone else's car, turning on the high beams is no brighter than the lows, because the low beams turn off as the highs come on.

 

Granted, if you drive in the city, this won't do diddly for you. On country roads, you will wonder why you didn't do it earlier.

I would be interested in details. Wouldn't a simple jumper wire allow the low beams to feed power to the high beams also, causing them both to be on all the time no matter what?

not realy if the switch is on the jumper wire

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  • 2 months later...

I've been wanting to upgrade the headlights for years now. Any suggestions on not just brightness, but on light spread/pattern? I don't want to blind oncoming traffic. I understand the Hella replacement housings with H4 bulbs create a nice spread. Anyone tried these [spendy] ones out? Personal experience with them?

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Autopals and Silver Stars suck compared to Hellas - had both, like night and day. 'Course, the Hella E-codes cost more unfortunately. :( Here's an old post from yesteryear how I did mine. I'm sure costs have gone up since then as everything else has................

 

"Here's how I did mine w. costs. Got the Hella 200mm H4 e-code glass lamp shells from Susquehanna Motor Sports ($34/ea). Then picked up from eBay four IPF 80w/60w H4 bulbs ($10 w. shipping, but you can used any wattage H4 bulb you want) and wired in a universal APC 4-lamp wiring harness w. relays (much cheaper than the 2-lamp, just cut off the extra two H4 sockets, Ebay, $9 w. shipping) which fit my MJ perfectly. Then put in a separate fuse block mounted near the PDC on the right fender well and fused the high and low beams separately w. 20A fuses."

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  • 1 month later...

Here's my upgrade:

 

AutoPal housings http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/79-01-JE ... ccessories

 

EAuto wiring http://www.eautoworks.com/product-eAuto ... 189849.htm

 

H4 bulbs

 

Total will be under $100, and get you an amazing upgrade,

 

 

Wire harness reading:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.p ... rade+cheap

 

 

Other than the AutoPal's, you can get Hella or IPF housings in both DOT and E-code (european). E-codes are technically not street legal in the US, but if properly aimed you should not receive any grief from the Po-Po.

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I used the Eautoworks wiring kit when I did mine and would recommend that to anyone looking to do this and not piece together the wiring part of it. I put in Rampage H4s as I got a deal on them used. Big difference, especially for low beams. I will say the Rampage lights didn't fit without some trimming to the headlight buckets. I probably wouldn't buy them if I couldn't get them on the cheap. I would probably opt for the Hellas. Check my build thread for pictures/write up.

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mkbruin - is the sharp "cutoff" on the lights annoying? I drove a Jaguar X-type that had the sharp cutoff and it was not only stupid but also annoying. I don't see why one wouldn't want light going up high.

You don't want light going "up high" because it blinds other drivers. That's what high beams are for. If you are noticing the cut-off when driving, your headlights are likely not aimed properly.

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