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Trailer hitch delema


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Build one.

 

Here's tha best pic I could find of a new U-haul receiver hitch for a 86-92 Comanche. No its not mine. :(

 

 

It looks like a pretty simple hitch to build having no special bends in the frame brackets. Thers's a couple of mounting tabs sticking up but I wouldnt think they'd have to be exactly like tha ones shown. Yeah, tha bolt holes would have to be exact but tha rest of tha brackets are nothing that couldnt be done with a cuttin torch and a grinder. As for tha square tubing, its just cut to length to fit between tha brackets. Pc a cake. :thumbsup:

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The post was by mkbruin in this thread

 

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18297

 

The hitch is a Reese 37042 , universal fit, sold at WallyWorld, and Advance Auto Parts, among others, about $130. mkbruin said it bolted right on , without modification, 'tho it was not listed as an mj fitment. He also mentioned that Reese doesn't show the product on their website, but shows the 37152 instead, which he said looks the same. Here's the link for the pdf install manual for the 37152 from Reese.

 

http://www.reeseprod.com/fitguides/pdf/N37152.pdf

 

It's listed as fitting the xj, but not the mj. I'm about to check out the 37042 myself. I've got a Fey step bumper rated 3500/350 and have been pulling a 4000# boat with it for the last year with no problems, but for obvious reasons I've been looking for a hitch. I've seen it in the box on the shelf, and its a Class III/IV, 5000 #, 500# t.w. (6000/600 with wt. dist.)

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The UHaul part no was 75021. I believe I got the next to last one uhaul had. Another CC member got the last one. Or maybe I got the last one, complete with red tag from uhaul stating 'DoNot Reorder'. I looked at the ones wallyworld has. I believe they are good units just looking. Be nice to find somebody actually bought and used one. I made patterns from the one I got and made 2 hitches from them. Worked out very good.

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Scope out any Mitusbishi Mighty Max's ........ I'm using one to build and MJ rear trailer for my XJ, and the frame rails are with-in a washers distance apart, (compared to MJ's) .......... Some may have the hitch mounted on the bumper, the bumper is beefed up for towing.

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I've just completed an extensive search for an MJ receiver hitch. Notta!!! Draw Tite made all of U-Hauls hitches and having talked to them there are non available. They gave me phone numbers to several of their larger retailers none of which still had any in stock. I went as far as to ask if Draw Tite would be interested in doing a limited production of receivers for the MJ enthusiast community. I'm supposed to get a response sometime today or tomorrow. I'm also supposed to contact their tech support for universal hitch options for our trucks. As far a universal goes I'm thinkin it may have to be their 37152 in which is still being produced. Unless you happen to find one on still sittin on a retailers shelf their universal 37042 is no longer in production.

BTW, Draw Tite not only made all of U-Hauls hitches. They also make both Reese and Hidden Hitch.

Good luck finding a rear receiver hitch for your MJ. There's plenty of front mount hitches if you don't mind pulling your trailer down tha highway in reverse. :huh???: Yeah, you can still buy a front receiver but not a rear. :nuts:

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Thanks for the help. I just got one from Uhaul. Just ask the Uhaul dealer to check canada Uhaul and there's 2 left and thats it. Thanks again :rotfl2:
No doubt you got lucky on that one. You did buy both of um RIGHT???
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BTW, Draw Tite not only made all of U-Hauls hitches. They also make both Reese and Hidden Hitch.

Good luck finding a rear receiver hitch for your MJ. There's plenty of front mount hitches if you don't mind pulling your trailer down tha highway in reverse. :huh???: Yeah, you can still buy a front receiver but not a rear. :nuts:

 

Only reason the front hitch is still available is the Cherokee market.

 

I've just completed an extensive search for an MJ receiver hitch. Notta!!! Draw Tite made all of U-Hauls hitches and having talked to them there are non available. They gave me phone numbers to several of their larger retailers none of which still had any in stock. I went as far as to ask if Draw Tite would be interested in doing a limited production of receivers for the MJ enthusiast community. I'm supposed to get a response sometime today or tomorrow. I'm also supposed to contact their tech support for universal hitch options for our trucks. As far a universal goes I'm thinkin it may have to be their 37152 in which is still being produced. Unless you happen to find one on still sittin on a retailers shelf their universal 37042 is no longer in production.

BTW, Draw Tite not only made all of U-Hauls hitches. They also make both Reese and Hidden Hitch.

Good luck finding a rear receiver hitch for your MJ. There's plenty of front mount hitches if you don't mind pulling your trailer down tha highway in reverse. :huh???: Yeah, you can still buy a front receiver but not a rear. :nuts:

Thanks for the help. I just got one from Uhaul. Just ask the Uhaul dealer to check canada Uhaul and there's 2 left and thats it. Thanks again :rotfl2:
No doubt you got lucky on that one. You did buy both of um RIGHT???

 

IF he did not buy all of them, I guess I will have to buy them. In a year or two I will sell "RARE Comanche Hitch" on Ebay.

Reserve price will be $1000 or maybe $1500. Hey, got to bet the money for a stroker or the paint job somehow.

 

johnj92131

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Seriously,

 

Who here has the skills required to draw up the diagrams to construct a Comanche Class 3 hitch? It would take me a month of full-time effort to get close. But, I do have a class 3 hitch to take measurements for anyone who wants them.

 

Would make a good DIY article. But think somebody has done this here on the ComancheClub.

 

And even for those of us who do not/can not weld, we could get a hitch made up locally with the drawings.

 

johnj92131

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Seriously,

 

Who here has the skills required to draw up the diagrams to construct a Comanche Class 3 hitch? It would take me a month of full-time effort to get close. But, I do have a class 3 hitch to take measurements for anyone who wants them.

 

Would make a good DIY article. But think somebody has done this here on the ComancheClub.

 

And even for those of us who do not/can not weld, we could get a hitch made up locally with the drawings.

 

johnj92131

 

I've got a Comanche-specific Draw-tite hitch on my '88 Pioneer. I could get measurements from it, draw it up in CAD, and even burn the side plates out on my CNC machine, but I'm on the other side of the country.

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I've got a Comanche-specific Draw-tite hitch on my '88 Pioneer. I could get measurements from it, draw it up in CAD, and even burn the side plates out on my CNC machine, but I'm on the other side of the country.

I think there'd be quite a market here and on Ebay for the side plates, the rest is cake.

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I've got a Comanche-specific Draw-tite hitch on my '88 Pioneer. I could get measurements from it, draw it up in CAD, and even burn the side plates out on my CNC machine, but I'm on the other side of the country.

I think there'd be quite a market here and on Ebay for the side plates, the rest is cake.

 

I'll see what I can do. I need to first get my hands on some thicker steel. I currently only have 12 and 14ga. in stock. I figure I will need at least 3/16" steel for the sideplates. I will be visiting my girlfriend this weekend who just so happens to live five minutes from a very large steel supply warehouse :brows:

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yep, bolted on no issue.

 

used it to tow a 16ft flatbed w/ a dodge demon from Denver to Phoenix, then tow a porsche back from phoenix to denver.

 

Works perfect.

 

 

Well, I don't know what the difference is between my '90 LB and mkbruin's '88 LB, but I just bought the Reese 37042 and there's no way it's going to bolt on (reference earlier posts on pg 1, this thread). Rails on the truck are around 45" apart, and the only way to extend the 37042 that far (very last mounting holes on center piece) is to use the extra side brackets, turned out, as in "side bracket location 4" (pg 3, installation manual) and bolt it to the underside of the rail. None of the holes line up with the one and only hole with a welded-on nut and the other hole, which doesn't have any threads, meaning I'd have to drill, but would have to do so right next to the unthreaded hole (weak) and I'd still only have two bolts holding the whole thing up. Could drill one more hole in the middle, maybe, but that's still two strong points and one weak one, and that last hole on the bracket definitely sits well off and behind the frame rail. Like I said, I don't know what gives, but I'm a little bummed. Price is down to $114 at Wally World, if anyone else wants to try. I'm heading back to town to get my money back.

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Hitch is back in the box. But before I return it to Wally World, can someone offer his opinion on drilling, say, two 3/8" holes in the bottom or the frame rail (where it's reinforced/triple-layered). Would it compromise the integrity of the structure at that point, where the hitch would be pulling a 4000# boat with a t.w. of 350-400#? Would it be strong enough? I'd also have a third bolt in an already threaded hole. Specifically for mkbruin.....hey bud, can ya tell us how you bolted this thing on?!?

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Got bored at work and decided to make a real quick mock-up of how I envision I could make this thing for, well, pretty darn cheap.

 

Step 1) I would CNC the sideplates out out 3/16" or 1/4" steel. I could let the engineer in me run some calcs to see what different loads on the trailer hitch would do for the max. stress at the sideplates, but I'll likely just see what the 'other guys' are using for their hitches. The sideplates would be MJ-specific meaning all bolt holes will line up perfectly.

 

Step 2) Purchase a piece of box tubing of appropriate size and thickness. This could even be round tubing if you so desired. I would likely just go with whatever the receiver hitch is made from and possibly just increase the wall thickness.

 

Step 3), Purchase this receiver hitch from Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/5000-lb-capacity-step-bumper-receiver-67158.html?utm_source=hftusa&utm_medium=hftusa&utm_campaign=buylink. I like how it comes with the slots for the trailer safety chain already welded in place. I also like how there are bolt holes on that top plate so I could even bolt this piece up and align it before final welding.

 

Final product would look something like this:

 

 

Note: I didn't include the trailer safety chain hook plate and other minor details because I'm at work and am not supposed to be mocking up MJ trailer hitches ;)

 

Another note: This is a rough sketch that I pulled out of my arse with no dimensions whatsoever and could be horribly, horribly off. Once I have the draw-tite hitch off of my MJ, I can take precise measurements.

 

I certainly wouldn't be selling these as complete units since I'm not confident enough in my welding abilities and I cannot offer any guarantees or warranties. I'd just be cutting out the sideplates and the rest is on you!

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I give up. I have been trying since last night to upload my drawings and can't get it load. I'm running AutoCad14 and XP Professional. Gonna call tech support ( hello,,How's the weather in India?" And see if I can get any help from them. I think my software got damaged and I'm just gonna have to delete and reload. PITA. Terra Wombat has the idea. Just to add to it. All material is 1/4in. There are 1/4 in spacers goes between the side plates and frame. Three on each sidee. Very back one is welded on the side plate. Helps installation. The other two are added after mounting the rear bolts. The side plate was cut from a 1/4 in by 10" by 14" steel plate. The two holes in the plate by the receiver didn't line up. Think the problem there was different bumper. Oh well, back to the drawing board.

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Notice 1/4in gap between end plate and frame. There's a bulge in the frame.

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1/4 in spacers included with UHaul. Washers would work just as well.

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The two holes in the hitch did not line up with the two in the bumper.

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Rear bolt only shown here. The spacer is welded to the back side of this hole.

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