JACKED88

Just throwing this out there ... Why if a person was planning on keeping the truck would it matter if it had a salvage title? I've bought several salvage vehicles. One was a stolen Honda Accord and all that was wrong with it was its wheels and interior were gone. Bought it right and all said and done had a really nice little car for less than $3500 bucks. Salvage titles don't scare me unless its been wrecked. Just gotta know what to look for. Also, Unless the vin has been changed its real easy to do a vin and or title search back to the last known owner/s. I'd buy it if I had the cash. Just not for $3300 bucks. Even though it is a rare truck I'm thinkin more like $2300. And that's only if it runs half was decent and isn't a rust bucket. If anybody has real interest in it I'd be willing to go look at it for you. We could talk on the phone while I'm there and I could take whatever pix you'd like or even a video of it. Like I said, I am willing to do this but only if you have real interest in it. In other words, Please don't waste my time asking me to go kick the tires for you.

http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/4642632437.html Don't know anything about it. Just thought somebody might be in the market for something different. Don't like that one? How bout one of these? http://galveston.craigslist.org/cto/4657769409.html http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/4657346152.html Anybody need some high dollar tail lights? http://austin.craigslist.org/pts/4687784482.html Camper top? http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/pts/4645652792.html Again, I don't know anything about any of this stuff. Just passing on what I ran across.

Thanks. They do have pretty good shipped to your door prices. Going to have to call um about the Chry 8.25. That or just leave the 35 in it and get their 30/35 set. ??? We'll see. Thanks again.

Anybody have a set of used but good control arm drop brackets you want to get rid of? I've got a 6" lift with adjustable upper and lower arms. Also looking for a couple of lunchbox or other lockers for a 8.25 Chry rear and Dana 30 front. And ... a set of 4.56 gears for both. Thanks in advance.

Hey guys, been a while since I posted anything so I thought I'd update yall on my trucks ac problem. (the Chevy above) As before, my problem was the lack of air coming through the vents. Fan ran great but hardly any air coming out. Well, I found and fixed the problem. Now what I'm about to tell you is gonna make me sound like a total idiot ,,, but if it helps the next guy with a simular problem I guess it'll be worth it. LOL!!! After doing some research, I found out that in 1999 when this body style truck came out, GM decided to install cab air filters in front of the evaporator. Yep, there's two filters between the fan and the evap. Both filter sit side by side each other. Needless to say I decided to check mine to see if that might be my problem. All you have to do is drop the plastic cover that hides the duct work, fan, etc and then remove one screw from a small door to access the filters. You wouldn't believe what the filters I had looked like. When I opened the access door all kinds of crap came falling out of the duct work. Accorn shells, pecan shells, leaves, grass, small sticks, etc, etc. Once I removed the filters and saw how clogged up they were there was little doubt this was my problem. After cleaning the rest of the debris from where the filter were and replacing them with new ones, the air blows like its a new truck again. I had no idea GM had started installing cab filter in 99 and up trucks. Probably in cars too. So, if your 1999 or newer truck//car isnt blowing air like it used to ... check//change your cabin air filters. Their supposed to be changed once a year. As for the rest of the truck, its running great. I did however have to replace the ac compressor again (under warrenty) and I need to replace the rear axle seals. Other than that ... no major problems. After the first of the year I'm going to install a gooseneck hitch and a set of air bags under it. Why? Two of my sons bought 5th wheel trailers and I need to be able to pull um. I have an adaptor plate that goes in a gooseneck that has standard fifth wheel rails on it. Using the plate I won't have to have rails mounted in the bed. The removable gooseneck ball is all you'll see. I already have two fifth wheel slider hitches and the truck had a trailer brake controler in it when I got it. Anyway ... Great to see C.C. is alive and well. I'll try to pop in more often. Later.

Couple a days ago I tried to fire up my MJ but it wouldn't start. Several days before that it took more cranking than usual to get it started. Once I got it started, it ran fine for the next couple days. Then it did it again but this time it refused to start. Ran the battery down trying. Out came the charger. OK, maybe it's a fuel issue. Sprayed some starting fluid down the intake, cranked it over .... nothing. OK, must be a spark issue. Sure enough ... no spark. Hmmmmm. Pulled the cap and rotor, checked and cleaned um both but still no spark. Ahhhhh, the coil must have crapped out on me. That's OK. Before I go buy one, I'll try the one out of my 89 XJ. Nope .... still no spark. By now I'm really starting to scratch my head. Hmmmmm. OK, what tells the ign to fire? How bout the CPS. It could cause a no spark issue. Problem is, I don't know how to test it. What tha hell. I decided to take a look at it anyway. By process of elimination, I figured I'd start by checking the wire harness/plug connector going to it. Unpluged the harness and although it looked fine I sprayed it with some cleaner, got out my mini file set, filed the pin connectors a little, sprayed it again, added some ele grease and pluged it back togather. Although I didn't think that connector was my problem, I decided to give it a try anyway. Crank, crank .... Va-roooom. In short ......... Never overlook the little things. Their usually the ones that cost us the most time and $$$ .

Yeah, your probably right. When I said I cleaned some debris out of the fan .... that was kind of an understatement. I cleaned a $#!& load of nuts/shells out of it. The truck had been sitting in the owners backyard for about a year in which was plenty of time for little critters to take up homested it. I'll pull the fan again and use a mirror and flashlight to inspect the evap again. Thanks for tha help.

:) Thanks guys. Considering how it looked when I got it .... It turned out to be a lot nicer truck than I expected. I agree, I like this body style too. Don't much care for the front of the new ones. If I was to buy a new truck it would be in my opinion the better looking GMC. :thumbsup: Yes, it has the 6.0. . It does have one problem that maybe one of you can help me with. I can't figuring out why the a/c doesn't blow very hard. Other than being anoyingly loud, the fan seems to be running fine including all of it's speed settings. But still not much air is coming out of the vents. I've removed the fan, cleaned some debris out of it, checked the the evap best I could, (it's hard to see without removing it) but can't find any restrictions. Oh, And it doesn't matter what setting it's on. (max, normal, defrost, heat, etc.) Lots of fan noise ..... little air to show for it. :dunno: .

Yall remember a while back when I showed you a 2000 Silverado 2500 i bought for $600 bucks? The truck needed some work including a transmission, drive shaft, radiator, power steering pump, alt, a/c comp, belts hoses etc. plus some interior and body parts. Anyway, it's been done for a while now but I never followed up with any new pix. Here are some before pix .... Here's what it looks like now .... Cleaned up pretty well. While I was at it, I put newer model wheels and a 4.10 rear end under it. Not bad for a total investment of about $3500 bucks. Oh, and with the 4.10's .... it runs .....gooooood.

I'm runnin 16" Grand Cherokee wheels on mine. Too bad they don't come in gray. They do come in silver but it's too close in color to the spokes. Not enough contrast for my liking. If I ever get the truck painted, I'll paint um to match.

Hey guys, I apologize for dropping the ball on the side plates. Current status .... My son is no longer working for the shop that had the plasma cutter meaning I no longer have an inside man. That being true, I may have to outsource the plates. I'll talk to a couple local shops and see how much they'll charge me for 10-15 sets. I hope I successfully saved the Solidworks file I received from TerraWombat and that I'll be able to forward it to the shop of my choice. If not, I'm gonna need that file sent either to me again or directly to whatever shop I find. I'll let yall know what I find at the local shops. Robert I really need to make this happen. Now that my son has successfully trashed the transmission in my 2500 Silverado, :mad: my MJ is my only running truck so I desperately need a hitch on it. Hitch .... maybe $100 bucks. 4L80e transmission .... over $1200 bucks. Cash in hand .... $0.00 priceless.

Update ..... NO, I haven't forgotten about this project. A couple of weeks ago I borrowed an MJ hitch (DrawTite) from a fellow member (Thanks Daniel) to use as a template. I've also located another source for getting the brackets cut. Although I'd prefer the brackets to be cut via water jet, the new source will use a plasma cutter. It is however a really nice one normally used to cut nickel. I've seen what it can do and I'm confident it'll do a nice job for us. More later. Oh, without going back to see who ask ..... the additional support gained by mounting your hitch to the bottom side of your bumper is optional. Yes, I will mount mine to the bumper but only because the hitch will give the bumper more support. The way I see it, the bumper and receiver as an assembly will be more rigid. (the bumper won't bend/twist just by stepping on it like it does now) That and with the center being supported your less likely to do major damage to your impossible to find straight rear bumper upon a small impact. Hope that helps. Robert

Great feedback guys.Thanks! I figured the full time versatility of the 242 would make it the obvious choice but thought I'd throw it out there for discussion. 242 it is.

Given the option of a 231 or a 242 transfer case, which would you choose? And why? (4.0, auto trans, daily driver, no ice or snow, no rock crawling, 4x4 only used as needed while off road in light to moderate mud) Although I probably don't need it, I'm leaning towards the versatility of the 242's full time 4x4.

Thanks for the help guys. :thumbsup:

Sorry, I forgot to specify standard or automatic. I'm talking about for an AW4. Ok, so a 2x4 AW4 cross member is the same as a 4x4 AW4. :thumbsup: That's what I needed to know. Thanks!!! Oh ..... what about vehicle specific? Are MJ and XJ AW4 cross members the same? (88 MJ / 89 XJ)

In doing a MJ 2x4/4x4 conversion ..... does a 2x4 and a 4x4 use the same transmission cross member? If not, will the cross member from a 4x4 XJ work?

Have a safe and Happy Thanksgiving. :wavey: If you traveling, please watch out for those idiots that don't know when to say when.

I'm thinkin silencer. :peek:

If he has a 242 transfer case, there is no disconnect, and the front drive shaft does turn all the time. It just isn't always connected to the engine. Unless he's running the 242 with the original MJ front axle. Yeah, I assumed he had an original MJ axle. I thought his collar could be either stuck in the 4x4 position and consequently driving on the street damaged the splines or it's stuck out of position making the splines ratchet while turning. Sorry for the misunderstanding.

This grinding noise you speak of ...... does it do it while in 2x4 or 4x4? Your front drive shaft doesn't/shouldn't turn while in 2x4. If it does it's likely your disconnect collar is stuck in the 4x4 position. If that's the case, your grinding noise could be an axle and or disconnect collar problem. Here's a good write up including pix on how it works. (or should I say supposed to work) http://www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/f64/m ... nect-1102/ Hope this helps. Good luck with it. Robert

Like to know if anybody has a used set of control arm drop brackets for sale? Please reply with P/M. Thanks. Robert

Thanks deziped. I'll pick up a can of carb. cleaner on my way to the shop tomorrow morning and try that. Knowing you've already replaced the distributor and coil but still claim to have a week/yellow spark, pick up a new coil wire while your there.

Perfect. That's exactly what I need. Question ..... with only 2 inches of drop, won't I still need longer links? If so, how much longer? Yes, I did have a hitting/clearance issue but I took care of it when I installed the arms. With my truck on a lift and the suspension hanging naturally I ground off a little of the mounts for clearance. If sway bar drops also move the bar forward, I definitely need a set. While I'm at it I'll replace my stock links. Thanks for the helpful tips. Robert

Bilstein huh. I was looking at their 5100's and think they'd work fine for my application. (mostly street with the occasional mild offroading) Gonna see about getting some drop brackets too. Any recommendations on who's to buy? As for lowering it .... I considered it thinking it would be easier to get in and out of it. Thing is I wouldn't want to lower it any more than 1 1/2" - 2" inches and that little amount wouldn't be enough to make much of a difference. At 5'-9" I'd still have to climb to get in it. Thanks for the suggestions. Robert