Harper

Kick all you want, bud....you and I have different FSMs. Mine doesn't have lettered sections, the sections are numbered 1-25, so if I were to refer you to say section 2 (FRONT SUSPENSION) pg 2-15, fig 7 "Hub and tapered roller bearings (4WD)", you wouldn't be any more impressed than I am. None of you seem to care about helping smithe1811 with his problem. So, all things considered, you obviously don't care for my input, and I don't particularly need yours ... so long y'all......good luck, Erik.

Okay.....CWLongshot and Wildman......and you too, Eagle. My apologies if I overreacted to what I considered a rather snide way of correcting what was seen as incorrect terminology. As I said, the FSM uses the same terminology. I know what a spindle is, but as I said the FSM even refers to the component outside the front axle U-joints as spindles. But far be it from me to want to confuse anybody. So let's put that behind us. Look at the video. Wildman, I, too, have a CAD on my axle. The intermediate axle is separate from the main axle that goes from the differential to the shift motor. The intermediate shft has two parts, separated by a U-joint. The inner part of this intermediate axle is centered in the tube by the main axle shaft that is itself centered by a bushing (don't get on me with terminology here, the FSM refers to it as a bushing in some places, and as a bearing in others, I've not had reason to tear mine down in this area, so I've not seen it). This bushing(bearing) is inboard of the CAD. The movement of the axle relative to the axle housing appears to me to be a problem, either with the bushing(bearing) or a broken inner portion of the intermediate axle shaft (that shaft which is outboard of the CAD). So my whole point all along has been that I think smithe1811 has more than just a U-joint problem to address here. If the three of you think that the movement that I'm refering to is acceptable, then fine. Let smithe1811 just repair the U-joint.

Considering it's a 4 wheel drive axle that doesn't have a spindle, that's a stretch ... Okay, Eagle.........I only went by the FSM labeling and narratives on the D30 front axle, which refers to the bearings of the D44 and D30 axles as spindle bearings, or wheel bearings or simply inner and outer bearings. It also refers to the outer yoke on the axle U-joint as the "spindle yoke." So shoot me. But actually, I was looking at it wrong (backwards). On second view, I see that the video is shot looking across the hub, toward the differential. So Eagle, considering the amount of play in the intermediate axle in the axle tube, does smithe1811 need just a U-joint as your remark has led him to believe? It doesn't seem right that the axle would move in the tube like that, and the only thing that I think of that centers the axle in the tube is the right side axle shaft pilot bushing. It seems even possible that he's broken the intermediate shaft on the right side. Now, do you want to just correct me, or would you like to say something that would be helpful to smithe1811?

Thanks for sharing that, Eagle...good to know info!

No, just the defective parts. Replacing the whole shebang is a bit of overkill.......neither easier nor cheaper. Besides, taking things apart and reassembling is an education in itself. :thumbsup:

:eek: Looks to me like both a bad axle u-joint and a bad spindle bearing.

HUH? :hmm: Uh-uh! don't think so.....

I haven't worked on a clutch for years, but only things I can think of offhand would be to make sure disc side stamped "flywheel side" is toward engine; FSM mentions too thick a disc as a possibility (sometimes happens with aftermarket parts especially), misalignment, warped clutch cover, make sure disc slides easily on input shaft splines (no binding, no burrs, etc), and of course, it mentions bleeding, which you've obviously done sufficiently.

There's a little post directly below the filler neck, as you look inside the pressure bottle. On all the bottles I've seen, the bottom half of the post is round, and a semi-circular portion sicks up above that. Fill to the top of the round part of the post. Any more than that, and it's likely to overflow. Bleeding the system...raise the rear of the truck a ways, engine cold, remove the temp sensor at the left rear of the cylinder head, fill until coolant runs out the hole, replace the sensor, check coolant level in the bottle as described. If you're seeing coolant around the cap or elsewhere on the pressure bottle after running at normal temps, assume it's got small cracks and won't hold pressure. At the temps our trucks run, if it won't hold pressure, it will boil and overheat. As automan pointed out, the bottle is always suspect.

Man!.....don't be talkin' to my wife! :rotfl2:

.....and you can find one from Rock Auto parts http://www.rockauto.com for as little as $8.87, or as much as $37.79. But make sure you look under Cherokee 4.0; it's not listed under Comanche 4.0

Was it overheating prior to the work, or did you do the work because of the pump seal was leaking fluid, or what?

:agree: I, too have an aluminum surge tank on the way. I've replaced the plastic tank at least three times because of fissures or cracks and coolant loss. Been through a couple of factory tanks as well as aftermarket types. This latest one, a Dorman from Rock Auto, is kaput after six months. I'm done with the plastic. To answer your question about system pressure management, the black plastic cap is a pressure cap that works essentially like a regular radiator cap, and is calibrated to maintain 16-18 psi in the system.

Still have all my publications and the plastic case they came in. The most useless of the bunch would be the warranty booklet and the worldwide list of dealers. :rotfl2:

Oh yeah, a shorted positive would definitely cause a power draw :yes: